ANOTHER LEG BEGINS
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Leg 8 GMIV Crew
Friday 10 Feb 2006
Position: Portobello at anchor all is well
Leg 8 crew have arrived after a long flight via New York and a good nights sleep at a local hotel in Balboa. The new crew then made their way to Drakes hideaway at Portobelo. We travelled to Portobello from Panama City along the main highway and took the opportunity to visit Miraflores locks and the large earth dam at Gatun lake. This to gave us some idea of the vastness of the whole project and a quick look at the task we had come to complete when we take Gipsy Moth IV through the locks ins few days.
We arrived at Portobelo to see the graceful old lady sitting at anchor amongst the other Blue water Rally boats in this very quiet and picturesque little corner of Panama. From a skippers point of view I must say It is nice to be back, having completed the leg 3 of the voayage from Gibraltar to Tenerife. It was also nice to see some familiar faces including my good friend Bernard from”Golden Eye” and too hear with great sadness of some friends that have chosen to leave the rally I wish you all well.
The day was spent on the normal handover procedures, which have become a part of daily life on board the Gipsy Moth at the beginning and end of a leg. I must admit I am missing my old mate Dick Durham the features editor from Yachting Monthly who helped me to write joined up reports and wrote most of them on my last leg, come back dick all is forgiven!!
Simon Hay, my First Mate, (who is normally back at the GMIV base at UKSA making sure all is going to plan) spent the first day fixing the satellite communications equipment -–not pleasant work in this heat! The problem turned out to be a burnt out junction box for the Sat C equipment – fairly easy to fix but we won’t get the part until Balboa, so you won’t be able to see where we are on the web site Virtual Cockpit. The rest of the system is now working fine, so you can all expect to be able to read the usual daily logs, watch the videos and see the pictures as we transit the Panama Canal. We can also now receive e-mails from you all – if you would like to send a message use the ‘Contact the Crew’ function on the web site – it is great to get e-mails when we are underway.
So its up to me now to introduce you all to the leg 8 crew and keep you up to date with Gipsy moths passage of the Panama Canal from Portobello on the Atlantic side to Balboa on the Pacific side.
The crew Line-up for this leg
Steve Rouse
Simon Hay
Steve Crowe
Dan Ford
Daniel Brinacombe
Jason Firth
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(UKSA) Skipper
(UKSA) Mate
Crew chief
Crew From Cowes IW
Crew From Plymouth
Crew From Cowes IW |
The tasks will be many, not just the sailing but line handling the 400 ft ropes required to transit the locks, dealing with the pilots that come through with each boat and learning that going ashore to do some shopping takes on a whole new meaning.
We will endeavour to keep you up to date with all the thrills and spills of the leg.
FIRST TASTE OF GMIV UNDER SAIL
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Saturday 11th Feb 2006
Position Portobelo Panama
Today we awoke to the sound of the village cockerels giving their dawn chorus as if competing in the bird world’s version of “pop idol” the smell of the damp rain forest took me back to my days in the Army when I was stationed just a few miles away in Belize, and true to form the early morning shower arrived on time and sent us all scurring for cover under the spray hood with our hot coffees. The fact that I was on Gipsy moth at anchor in this beautiful bay and it was only 06.30 in the morning made it all the more fantastic.
We finished our victualing today, Steve Crowe 46 from Plymouth and Dan Ford !7 from Cowes ventured back into the local village on a rummage patrol to complete our shopping for the next few days. In these latitudes you eat what you can find, the pleasures of UK supermarkets are just a fond memory. At the same time Steve Rouse still only 50 from Wootton on the Island gave the remaining crew Daniel Brimacombe 15 from Plymouth and Jason Firth 17 also from Cowes on the Island a lesson on Diesel engines and the importance of daily engine checks. Following that, the crew then underwent a series of briefings in preparation for the Leg ahead this included a full safety brief and deck brief and by 13.30 we slipped our anchor and preceded to head out for an afternoons sail training with young Daniel Brimacombe 15 from Plymouth at the helm.
The sea state was calm but as we headed out of the bay and past the reef the swell began to pickup as did the wind speed a great sail was to be had by all, but some of the crew were feeling a little under the weather the jury is still out as to if it was a slight feeling of sea sickness or the blistering heat and relentless sunshine out here. Having just arrived here from the UK, a few days acclimatisation in a new place should never be forgotten, with no place to escape from the sun when out on the water it is a very important consideration on Gipsy Moth with crews changing over each leg. The tanned bodies go back to UK and the pink ones arrive.
The crew enjoyed the sail training afternoon, and as we headed back to our anchorage, unlike other boats in the blue-water rally we have the pleasure of a Sea Fresh water maker so we took the opportunity to make some water, even I can work it! It’s that easy to operate, and means that the crew can have the odd shower which is a real bonus in heat like this, it was 35 degrees today.
As I sit on the sails on the foredeck and write this second skippers log I am doing so listening to the vibrant local calypso music from Portobelo heavy on the bass but finding it difficult to sit still to, the beat is that good, the wild life that comes to life after sun set is trying to add its own sounds to the party. The smell of log wood bar-b-ques drifts across the bay and a roof of a thousand stars provide me with light with which to work, what a place,
The mate Simon Hay 36 also from Cowes is working feverishly on the next batch of video clips for the Gipsy Moth web site and the young lads are doing their diaries and the crew log, everyone is looking forward to moving round to Atlantic end of the canal tomorrow and the new challenges that await us all.
It really is great to be back
Steve Rouse Skipper
GET READY FOR THE MAIN EVENT
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M25 for Shipping
Saturday 11th Feb 2006
Position Portobelo Panama Proceeding to Cristobal
This morning started to the usual sound of the early morning chorus and few dogs barking, the work launch running workers across the bay for the day’s toil, as Gipsy Moth swung on her anchor with the crew moving about their business like ghosts amongst the early morning mist on a lake in mother England. We were about to slip and sail the port of Cristobal and to the town of Colon there to sit and complete all the official documentation involved with transiting from one Ocean to another.
With Steve Crowe on the helm we slipped silently out of Portobelo and on with our adventure, Simon Hay, 1st Mate, soon had the crew hoisting the running sail and Gipsy moth was doing her best again running off the wind in a building swell with young Daniel Brimacombe getting his first go at long lining for fish. Simon also took the crew through the tying of various knots in preparation for their jobs as line handlers on some of the other Blue Water Rally yachts transiting the canal.
We soon covered the 20 miles or so to Cristobel and called Cristobel Signal Station on ch 12 for permission to enter the port via the main channel, permission duly granted we proceeded to the Flats anchorage to await further instructions from the Blue Water Rally control. Tony was there with instructions on what to do and soon the port official was aboard to measure Gipsy Moth for her transit he also checked lines for the locks fenders and engine capacity and speed, all the things needed to make a successful transit of the Panama Canal in a day.
On arriving at the dock Tony asked if we would like a berth for the night rather than sitting at anchor on the flats? I don’t need asking twice and by 17.00hrs Gipsy moth was alongside the Panama City Yacht Club. The Yacht Club is a very friendly place and it is great to catch up with all of the other yachts involved with the Blue Water Rally. Simon, 1st Mate, had to make an excursion into Colon to gets some fuel for the outboard engine and cam back looking a little disturbed, unfortunately Colon is not the safest of places for tourists and travellers, so we are pretty much restricted to the Yacht Club.
The crew by now have been hired out to other members of the BWR to assist in the canal transit, so lucky them they will get 2 transits of the canal to talk about when they get home. They will be back on GMIV on Monday evening ready to take her through the canal on Tuesday.
Mean while the skipper and Mate are tackling the remaining technical problems on the boat to try and keep Gipsy Moth and all our fans and supporters up to date with all the goings on with the boat. So working in 35 degrees + my lovely wife Christine should see a slimmer skipper when we return later this month, so until tomorrow when we should have some fantastic news on our canal transit I bid you all good day.
PS Just a quick note to say Hi to all the staff and children at the English Education Centre in Tenerife hope you are all following the adventures of Gipsy Moth and not to forget the mischief maker Blackbeard!
Steve Rouse Skipper
OFF ON THEIR OWN
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 Handling Lines
Monday 13 Feb 2006-02-15
Position Flat Anchorage Cristobal, Colon Panama
At last the onerous task of compiling the duty log has passed down the line of command to the depths! So here is Steve Crowe’s attempt at following in the footsteps of our Captain and first mate. The responsibility weighs heavily but here goes.
Following a meeting between Captain Steve and Blue Water organisers, it was decided to allocate members of Gipsy Moth Crew to various yachts in the Rally to accompany them on their transit through the Panama Canal from Colon to Panama City.
Having drawn the short straw, Anne and Julian, onboard their yacht Free Wheel, were joined by myself, Daniel Brimacombe and Jason Firth. We had the time of our lives, I’m not sure how Anne and Julian felt about our inclusion on their yacht. Having completed a sumptuous meal in the delightfully named Colon Yacht Club Dining Room, we were whisked away in the gathering darkness, to what can only be described as a floating home. No expense has been spared on this yacht and every little creature comfort has been catered for. I’m not going to cast aspersions on the legend that is Gipsy Moth 1V but…….
We spent a comfortable if sort night on board Free Wheel but were awoken at 2.30am by the sounds of a kettle and the smell of fresh biscuits. Following a quick briefing on the plan of action for the transit and the expectations of the Captain and her husband, we spent a frustrating hour waiting for our transit guide to board so that our journey into the unknown could commence.
Enter Edwin, calm, quiet yet clearly in control. Using his extensive knowledge of the canal and all the twists and turns, surprises and challenges she hides, he was able to negotiate with resolute determination those initial obstacles. However, also enter the transit guide of the yacht we were to be rafted with, who quickly assumed greater control than I’ve ever had in the classroom, and squashed poor Edwin’s attempts to perform the role that he was being paid.
Having exited our mooring position, we moved swiftly and serenely to our appointed meeting with two yachts who were to become our ‘buddies’ as we left the Caribbean / Atlantic and rose unerringly to the heights of Gatun Lake.
During this period, Daniel and I at the stern, and Jason and Anne on the bow, under the waning authority of Edwin, manoeuvred the Free Wheel with the help of Julian and a vast array of technical wizardry that Nassa would have been proud of ( much of which Julian had designed and created ) into and out of the three locks that make up this first section of our adventure. Standing on a relatively large yacht, even we are dwarfed by the sheer enormity of what the Panamanians, with the help of a bit of American money, have achieved. This ‘eighth wonder of the world’ is mind boggling in it’s audacity and even more so when one considers that the design and construction took place some hundred, years ago, being completed in 1913. This awesome human endeavour added to the extent of human life lost in its construction surely make this canal, lake and dams, one of the most staggering of human achievements.
And here were we, five people on a small (ish) yacht taking our turn in the steady stream of commercial and human traffic through this vital link between the Atlantic and the Pacific.
Clearing the last of the three Gatun locks, we were flushed into the wide expanse of Gatun Lake, itself the product of huge human endeavour and sacrifice. As the sun finally burst through the lightening clouds, we, along with eleven other yachts, entered an environment that all but felt like the top of the world, eerily quiet apart from the deep humming of diesel engines.
This impression of aloneness was rudely banished by the appearance of huge container, and car transporters, some anchored, some nudging their way to the locks that would carry them down to the open sea.
During this period and the next four hours that elapsed as we made our way through the lake, Anne and Julian were the epitome of good hosts, constantly providing us with an array of drinks, snacks and even a bacon butty! We were in heaven!! Well almost. It would have real heaven if my family had been with me!!!!
Without leaving the safe confines of his position at the wheel, and with the minimum of bending, pulling, sweating and grunting, Julian raised a running sail ( ‘downwind’ type I was informed ) and our speed crept up towards eight knots. Our job as line handlers over for the duration of the Lake, Jason and Daniel, following a quick game of nomination whist, attempted to make up for lost sleep, and achieved this target with consummate ease. I managed to have a good conversation with Julian whilst trying to maintain a full level of shade from the strengthening yet already searing heat, and it was only mid morning.
We were making good progress, but the heat was taking it’s toll. The strong gusty winds of the very early morning had given way to a much needed but inadequate breeze. Jason struggled desperately to protect those parts that had not been protected before and Daniel donned a very fetching pair of black half knee length socks that caused some debate as to how many times they had been worn!!
At last the channel narrowed and banks increased in height the end was in sight. We trundled into Pedro Miguel lock once again under the watchful ( ish ) eye of somebody else’s transit guide. Edwin finally succumbed and jumped ship to ‘party’ with the ‘boys’ leaving Julian to despair. The only highlight of this section of our passage, apart from the realisation that you were achieving personal milestones and targets, was the appearance of Centennial Bridge, itself a marvellous example of construction work in this part of the world. It was downhill ( in measured steps ) all the way. Milaflores locks and visitor centre passed by with us bit players carrying out our well rehearsed and practiced routines of monkey knot catching, tying on and off, maintaining tension in ropes, watching ours and others positions relative to the lock walls and listening to the barked instructions of the interloper transit guide.
Finally the Pacific. Great feelings of elation flowed in waves across the fleet, champagne corks popped and cheers rang out. All a bit embarrassing really as we should really have remembered in a moments silence all those who had given their lives in the construction of this immense, awe-inspiring testament to the ingenuity of the human race. Maybe this is a bit over dramatic and maybe Daniel and Jason will only really appreciate what they have witnessed when they are older but get yourselves to Panama and I guarantee you will be, in the words of Daniel, ‘well impressed’
Grateful thanks must go to the captain and crew ( you decide who was who ) of the good ship Free Wheel for their part in the making of this epistle, two nicer people you could not wish to meet. Thanks also to Daniel and Jason for being there and to the cast of thousands who made this whole magical experience possible.
Oh, by the way, the journey back to Colon was long, sleep inducing and for one of us ( names withheld to protect the innocent ) not without the desperate need for relief!!!
Steve Crowe Crew Chief
HERE AT LAST
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Land Locked
Tuesdays 14th Feb 2006
Position Flamenco Marina Panama City (Pacific Ocean)
My thanks to Steve Crowe our crew chief for allowing me a days rest from the toils of the skippers log and by reading what has been written I think I might be our of a job in that respect, so thanks and well done Steve.
So ever onwards the great story of Gipsy moth IV clocks up yet another milestone in her epic circumnavigation, the words of a another very famous person come to mind here and if allowed a little poetic licence could read “one small step for mankind one giant leap for Gipsy moth” we are now in the Pacific in the great port of Panama City having successfully negotiated the 3 lock system of the Panama Canal and are now preparing for what must only be the most exciting part of the circumnavigation.
The day or night as it was, started with great anticipation; our tired crew returning from their first transit with other boats in the BWR now old sweats at the game could not wait to tell all to skipper and mate. This was a cunning ploy however by letting the crew practice their line handling on the other boats we thought that by the time they return they should be really good. The ploy worked and the crew were brilliant, thanks go to Julian and Anne on “Freewheel and Hutch and Gillie on Fenella for looking after the crew so well, they were well impressed with hospitality and had a really great time.
We took or transit advisor (pilot) on board at about 03.45 in the darkness of a busy harbour with ships moving all around, and close, very close, the fleet of boats peeling off the anchorage like a flight of spitfires in the battle of Britain heading for the first set of locks at Gatun which were lit up like a small city in the desert of darkness that surrounded the fleet. All this amid the chaos of a dozen boats all trying to raft up and not hit the far bank of the canal with a warm moist and very strong cross wind blowing the raft across and into the locks, It takes a steady hand and a cool nerve to control a raft of 3 very expensive yachts in this situation still underway and rafting up at the same time, and to the credit of all concerned the transit was uneventful as far as damage done to boats.
Gipsy Moth was rafted to Anouk a Swan 57 DS skipper by Ekren and Ann and Bibi and Halberg Rassy 48 skipper Eduard and his family including what must be one of the youngest circumnavigators in the fleet a 4 month baby boy, we passed through the first set of locks at Gatun without incident and as the last set of lock gates opened the sun came up fanning it’s rays through the low cloud as if to remind the crew of Gipsy Moth that someone was watching.
The transit through the Gatun lake is so awe inspiring (knowing that this is entirely man made) that no one said a word for the first few minutes as if in respect for the poor soles that toiled so hard to make this all possible. It is obvious why this is referred to as the eighth wonder of the world when you can see this untouched wilderness as if it has been protected from the ravages of the modern world by some force field from another dimension.
Next in line was the Pedro Miguel Locks but as we were so quick through the Gatun lake the boats had to wait for a couple big ships to pass by in the other direction before we were allowed to proceed, again the hectic rafting procedure began again, by this time we were getting quicker and the raft formed and Gipsy Moth entered the lock with Anouk and Bibi, we were soon through and at anchor awaiting transit of the remaining lock at Miraflores, which would allow Gipsy Moth into the Pacific
I must admit to goose bumps and euphoria at this stage the enormity of what we were doing took over for a few seconds as we entered Miraflores Locks with the Corum Swiss time pieces Flag in the fore stay, it needed Simon to shout at me to bring me back into this world and start driving the boat again, it was not just moving a boat through a lock system but we were the crew Myself, Simon, Steve, Dan, Jason and Daniel that had the responsibility of taking Gipsy Moth IV a diamond in our Countries maritime history through the Panama Canal system from one ocean to another and delivering her safely into the Pacific Ocean and her berth in Flamenco marina.
We arrived safely at the entrance to Flamenco marina and called Rally control for advice on our berth, we were answered by promptly by Peter Seymore one of the rally directors and guided onto our downwind berth, and a group fellow sailors from the Blue Water Rally took our lines, it really is a pleasure sailing with BWR like a floating community all of its own, with everyone so helpful and so nice.
There ended another perfect day for the crew of Gipsy Moth IV.
Steve Rouse Skipper
AWESOME WORKERS
 Thanks Miguel !!
Position Flamenco Marina Panama
Gipsy Moth sits comfortably on her mooring in Flamenco marina courtesy of Mr Miguel Lopez Pineiro Company Presidente who has been kind enough to grant Gipsy Moth a free berth for the duration of her stay. This is no small thing in this developing marina at the pacific end of the Panama Canal; this is the ideal place to stop over before proceeding on to Las Perlas islands and Galapagos. As we go to print the marina is very much under development with a few super yachts already on berths, it’s a haven for sport fishing and boats, tackle shops and chandlers shops, there are also bars restaurants and a hotel and apartments to come. You have helped our charitable cause a great deal thank you and good luck to you all in the future.
The night is hot and sticky as I write this skippers log those that follow should note. The crew worked like Trojans today preparing the boat for our little foray to Las Perlas islands on the 21 –22 Feb and indeed the next leg to Galapagos. They all realise the more we do now the easier it will be for the next crew, what gallant thoughts and Simon and myself do not have to push anyone. All the sole plates were removed and cleaned, the bilges were thoroughly cleaned, the engine bay was cleaned and all the brightwork polished. In addition, Gipsy Moth’s hull was given a thorough polish. I have the greatest of respect for this crew they must be some of the most well motivated people on this project. They have already started to work as an effective team, which is great to see in young people.
During the day Simon and myself well aware of the communication problems on the boat are working round the clock to get the thing up and running again as fast as possible. Working in up to 100 degrees at times, it’s rather interesting when you are upside down working in the close confines of Gipsy Moth’s bowels on tricky electronics. With sweat dipping off your elbows and any other part of the anatomy that comes into contact with the boat. Fault finding in these conditions is interesting to say the least, as soon as one problem seems to be solved another shows it’s face and so on but hey! That’s sailing in these modern times. Even old Blackbeard stuck his nose for a while, but that did not last long maybe he thought there was food in the locker and got a shock when all he saw was electronic cables and junction boxes.
We have managed to identify a number of problems with the communications system, mainly related to the humidity and corrosion. This is not dissimilar to some of the problems that the great man himself, Sir Francis, faced with his HF set back in the 1960s. However, our latest gremlin is a software glitch and this really has had Simon tearing his hair out. We have been receiving excellent support from Nera and Offshore Challenges, but this little devil just won’t go away. We know how frustrating this must be to all those avid watchers of GMTV and readers of the daily adventures of GMIV. The good news is that we managed to find a connection that allowed us to transfer the footage of the Panama Canal Transit and some great photos. We hope that you all enjoy watching!
We have the honour of a visit on Saturday from the Vice Consul of the British Embassy in Panama so tomorrow will be more of the same, concentrating on the paintwork and the waterline and polishing everything we can. Doing a rig check and re-flaking all sails. GMIV really looks the part amongst the several super yachts in the marina – she is fully dressed with all the sponsors flags and banners, I will post a picture of her tomorrow when the final jobs are done. The look forward is that the crew has the day off on Saturday and will go on a visit to an Indian village in a dugout canoe, more about that when they return.
So all is well on Gipsy Moth a good day at the office in Flamenco Marina Panama
Normal communications will be resumed soon we hope.
Steve Rouse Skipper
TO HOT TO HANDLE
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All Dressed Up
Position Flamenco Marina Panama City (Pacific Ocean)
Weather ENE wind at 15kts Sunny Temp
35 c
“O” my god it’s early” said one of the crew it’s 06.00 hrs, “it’s the middle of the night” said another, “I want my mum” said the third, busy doing an impression of Kevin off of Harry Enfield’s TV programme. We start early because it’s cool, not cool in the cool sense but it’s not so hot the sun has not got his hat on yet, and work can proceed at a better pace. Only when the sun is hot that hot so hot that you could just burst into flames do we show a little compassion and take a break.
And so onto another day of yacht preparations with task masters Steve and Simon in full flow not coming up for fresh air, the inside of the boat becomes their own private little sauna as they try frantically to solve the many software gremlins that have come aboard I don’t think it helps any with Blackbeard crashing out in the electrics cupboard I’m sure he the one responsible swapping all the plugs and connections over just to wind us all up. But we are still communicating by whatever means we can.
Let’s rock it from the Marina to the GMIV, hey! What do you guys want? Any requests? Anything man just play it louder comes the reply, get some working music on shouts Simon and rock the deck brush around the clock, and don’t stop until you’ve had enough, the normal CD reserved by Steve the mad “taz” man for storms is the Pogues, But today in our intense baptism of fire, one last push on the cleaning battle front we are all stepping up a gear in our attempt to keep pace with our masters, Steve the “Taz” man and Simon the “non human”, so with the Pogues ringing in our ears over the sound of the engine running to generate power for the thirsty electronics, we scrub and polish anything that is Gipsy moth, inside, outside, Westside, eastside, on our side, starboard side, port side, upside down in the dinghy and along both sides of the waterline in preparation of our visitor on Saturday.
The crew are happy and willing to muck in with any task set them for the greater good of the Gipsy moth dream, and that is why we are heading off to the Las Perlas Islands on the 21 -22 Feb for a well earned 2 day sail as a reward for all the hard work this unselfish crew have put in, and I don’t think we will be alone, I know of a few other yachts from the Blue water rally that plan to depart on the same day, so a nice sail in company looks very likely, the lads are a credit to themselves and the schools they represent.
Steve Crowe and young Daniel Brimacombe 15 from Plymouth set off into Panama City to find some items of computer equipment required by Simon and to get Food required by us all. Well they returned in no time at all with all the goodies and exclaimed that really it’s just like any other modern City, it certainly looks pretty good form our berth across the bay; all you need is a good taxi driver to take you to all the right places, which you can hire by the hour.
Our two masters of maintenance Dan and Jason from Cowes were working hard at scrubbing all of the deck and the cabin floor boards which had to be unscrewed and then screwed back down again, when scrubbed they left the cabin floor boards on the pontoon to dry out and when the time came to replace them nearly burnt their hands picking them up, it’s that hot when the sun is high! Meanwhile the odd mutter is heard from Simon and Steve in their own little sweat box down below, Simon editing video clips and Steve doing his accounts and rattling out another Voyage log for all the fans and followers out there in cyber world, thanks for being part of it.
To top off a hard working day Young Daniel produced the evening meal melba toast with smoked salmon, pink grapefruit and crème fresh starters washed down with a dry martinis for the adults courtesy of Steve Crowe, “thanks Steve” and a 2 pot version of shepherds pie which Daniel produced all on his own, it vanished off the plates like it was beamed up by Scottie, so I think it won the approval of all the crew. So as the sun sets on another Gipsy Moth horizon the afternoon wind gives way to calm once more and the constant flapping of the flags dies away to leave only the peaceful tranquillity of Panamanian night I will retire to my bed and think of the challenges that lie ahead.
Steve Rouse
Skipper of Gipsy Moth IV
THE INDIANS ARE COMING
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 A Friendly Face in a Foreign Port
Position Flamenco Marina Panama
Weather, Wind ENE 15 kts Sunny 36 degrees c
Today Gipsy Moth had the pleasure of a visit from the Primer Secretario y Consul to the British Embassy in Panama Mrs Penny Walsh. Penny chatted to Steve Rouse and Simon Hay about Gipsy Moth, her history and the wonderful project that she is involved in now. Penny was disappointed not to have the opportunity to chat to the lads as they were other wise engaged on a trip to an Indian village, more about that later. Penny was a sailor but has not had the opportunity to sail in Panama because it’s a mainly sport fisher-boat place and not to many sail boats apart from those like us in transit for far away horizons. We were given advice on the Las Perlas Islands which we will be visiting soon and a look forward to the Blue water rally bar-b-q on Monday when she will be able to meet the crew as well as other rally members. Steve Rouse then presented Penny with a plaque from the Isle of Wight Council for the ambassador’s residence which will be hung in the hospitality area of the residence along with other mementos and presentations from visiting warships and the like. Penny gratefully accepted the plaque with thanks. Penny then departed with promises of help if needed and said that she was very much looking forward to meeting the crew.
I would like to introduce all the GMIV followers to our youngest crew member Daniel Brimacombe 15 from Plymouth who will write the rest of today’s log, with a summary of their trip to an Indian village. I hope you all enjoy it, they came back buzzing.
Today we made a trip to an Indian village area witch is not far away from Panama City. When we arrived at the village we were greeted by the sound of indigenous music and the Indians’ saying HELLO and giving help to people to get off the boat we had arrived on.
We walked up to a hut were we listened to the Indians as they explained a little about their life and tribe. Then they were talking about what cloths they wear and how they are made - it is very different to us because we wear a lot and they wear clove short and nothing else. The girl’s wear skirts with patterns and their tops are made out of beads with coins to show that they are wealthy; the less coins the less wealthy. However the girls had a lot of coins on them.
We had a look at the crafting that the Indian do and it was very Interesting and beautiful. Then we had a look at the table full of crafted stuff and you can buy from them. After we went for a walk through a secondary rainforest and an Indian gave us a tour and talked to us about the vegetation and what they use the different trees and plants for. There was a spiky tree that they used the spikes to put on a fire and the stick was used for bow and arrows. He was talking about what flowers you can use if a snake bites you. He showed us what they use to make there huts and shelters and also what they use to make the top of the huts.
We went back to the setting hut and had some lunch - it came in a leaf, in side was fish, orange and potato and it was sweet. After were lunch they showed us three dances - they were very good then the men played drums and the girls went around and picked up someone and danced with them. Daniel, Dannie and Jason were picked to dance – watch the video clip it is funny.
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When we got back we told Simon and Steve that they should go because we all had a fantastic time. Although we were only with the Indians for a little while I learnt loads about what they do and how they live. One more thing I never imagined I would do!!
By Daniel Brimacombe
Age 15
ALOFT IN FLAMENCO
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 High Mum
Position Flamenco Marina Panama
Weather, Wind NE 10 kts Sunny
35 degrees c
Today was the final preparation day for our trip to the Las Perlas Islands and another day to finish off some of the maintenance tasks needed to cross the Pacific Ocean Young Daniel Brimacombe from Plymouth was first in line to go up the main mast, and after a safety briefing from Simon the crew hoisted Daniel aloft to carry out the rig check and clean and lubricate the mast track, at the same time we took the opportunity to send up the cam corder for Daniel to take some panoramic shots of the harbour.
After the mast maintenance we continue with wood preparation and varnishing and engage a local tradesman to make a much needed boom tent and cockpit cover in time for the next legs departure date. The Crew are really working well, and we have managed to use this time in port to give Gipsy Moth some of that much needed love and care a wooden boat craves when she is away from home. The problems that are plaguing the boats communications are still there and my mate for the trip Simon Hay is pulling his hair out chasing the abundance of cabling through the bowels of the boat that looks like a sea of boiled spaghetti gone mad. He thinks he now knows what its not and with that in mind we may now know what it is, how’s that for an explanation from a reluctant computer user and non techi, we have managed to track down a local sat com engineer and are eagerly awaiting his arrival as I type.
As the sun sets on yet another perfect day in Panama minds are now drifting off to our 2 day sail and then onto loved ones left behind at home, we are all indeed very lucky to be so well supported and I for one would like to thank my dear wife Christine publicly for allowing me to Skipper Gipsy Moth and follow my dream you are my inspiration, thank you, see you soon. Our arrival back in the UK is now looming on the horizon, it all seems so quick and I can’t believe that a new skipper and crew will be getting ready in UK to carry on the dream and take Gipsy Moth to Galapagos, but this is a short leg and everyone has had a great time so far, and I will be much happier when normal service is resumed on our communications.
The Blue water rally boats are nearly ready to leave for the Galapagos the whole marina has been a hive of activity over the last few days with paperwork and last minute jobs being carried out by everyone, the first yachts should be leaving on 22 Feb with the remaining boats leaving between 22 -25 Feb and stopping over in the Las Perlas Islands for 3-6 days before moving onto Galapagos that will enable Gipsy Moth to catch up with the rally after leaving Panama a little later.
So look forward to the next voyage log when we will be able to tell you all about the Las Perlas Islands and our activities there.
Steve Rouse
Skipper Gipsy Moth IV
DIPLOMATICALLY SPEAKING
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Penny Walsh & the GMIV Crew
Position Flamenco Marina Panama
Weather, Wind NE 12 kts Sunny, mod cloud 36 degrees c
A day off for the crew of Gipsy moth IV, it may be that Simon and I are going soft or the excellent work put in by the crew over the past few days that clinched it for them. Crew chief Steve Crowe and crew members Dan, Jason and Daniel had a day in down town Panama City learning more about Panama and its cultural mix.
Today was also a day of a thousand challenges for Simon and me, all of which were achieved to some degree or another. A trip to see the port captain in Flamenco which resulted in a taxi ride into Balboa to see the Panama Canal Port Captains office to get clearance to sail to Las Perlas Islands, which involved more waiting in one office then another remembering to be very polite to all and presenting oneself in a respectable manner, only to find out we already had the required paperwork and extending my minute knowledge of the Spanish language to new levels. Then followed a trip across town to find some more anchor chain that Richard asked me get, which meant going through a rather shady looking area which had us reaching for the door locks and hoping the taxi didn’t have to stop, chain duly acquired we made our way to the next challenge, to find a chart agent job done onto the next one and so on, get the message. I would say that this is a typical day in the life of a yacht skipper when ashore, dealing with officials from all departments to gain clearances and get passports stamped etc:
Our Sat com engineer arrive today and has gone away to contact NERA hopefully when we contact him on Thursday he will have some good news.
Tonight the Blue Water Rally held its farewell to Panama bar-b-que and the crew had the chance to meet Penny Walsh from the British Embassy in Panama who earlier in the week had visited Gipsy Moth and expressed disappointment at not meeting them as they were visiting a Panamanian Indian village. Tonight they all got on like old friends and penny chatted to Daniel, Dan, and Jason about the canal and local customs and asked about their experiences so far whilst in Panama. A good night was had by all and to top it off Penny posed for a picture with the Gipsy Moth crew.
On returning to Gipsy Moth the crew once again worked tirelessly to get the yacht ready to put to sea at first light. There were also e-mails to be answered to family and friends, please keep the e-mails via the web site coming, it is always great to receive word from home or an out of the blue question from a complete stranger.
Steve Rouse
Skipper Gipsy Moth IV Panama
CASTAWAYS
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 Twilight in Paradise
Position At anchor 08°27.4N 78°59.7W Isla Viveros, Archipielago De Las Perlas
Weather, Wind NE 10 -15 kts Sunny, 36 degrees c
Well with Gipsy Moth free from the shackles of the Marina, how do I start this one I ask? So much to tell and so much done so well, so let’s start today’s story at reveille, with the boat prepared the night before there really wasn’t that much to do apart from rig slip lines check the engine and go.
Never that simple though, but with the crew washed showered and ready and the boat looking really good after her extended maintenance period it was time to slip. Enter one old boat with handling characteristics like a super market trolley berthed behind a 120 ft super yacht and in front of an 80 ft sports fisher with about a foot at each end and a small set of berths for turning around in, it was real fun getting her in but now master of my own destiny it was time for her to come out. This called for me to draw on all my years of experience, knowledge and a fair amount of cheek. So in my normal manner I thought that I would either go out with a bang or indeed show these petrol heads how a well trained and briefed crew could handle a yacht in these circumstances and sail her off her berth.
The wind was just right, just fine on the port bow and not too strong so with lines rigged and crew briefed and a fair number of onlookers we slipped from our berth, Dan from Cowes on the stern lines, Jason from Cowes and Steve Crowe from Plymouth on the Bow doing lines and sail handling, Daniel on the rover and the mate Simon in oversee mode making sure all went to plan, stern slip gone, then bow slip gone motor back on the stern spring just a little, hoist the running sail up 10 ft sheet in by hand and back it, watch her drifting off like a swan running sail up a bit more, fend off the stern, watch the self steering around she comes like a hand break turn in ultra slow motion, drop running sail, slip stern spring forward gear engaged and away, standby main sail and by the time we were clear of the end of the dock Gipsy Moth was sailing out of the marina under main sail much to the astonishment of our group of well wishers and onlookers. It would have been great to film but we needed everyone to tend lines and sails, well done GMIV crew, we did the old girl proud!
Off to our long awaited respite in the Las Perlas islands, with Steve Crowe 41 from Plymouth and getting younger by the day,(keep the fan mail coming in) on the helm we hoisted the cruising chute and headed of on a course 140° for 40 miles, this is when Jason from Cowes came in for some intensive on the job navigation instruction from myself (promoted skipper for the day) and I retired to my bunk with the instructions that he should call me when land was sighted. He rose to the challenge like he had been sailing for years and together we completed the pilotage through rock strewn channels into this tricky anchorage, but it was worth it.
The indigenous people, the Embera and the Wounaan live along the rivers in small groupings of thatched huts on stilts. The interiors of the hut dark with the smoke from cooking fires, hide astonishing treasures. The women will shyly show baskets they make, tightly woven exquisitely shaped and adorned with traditional patterns. The men pull out a piece of old rag wrapped around delicately carved animals cut in tagua, a palm fruit sometimes called ivory nut because of its likeness.
But the Island of Viveros is uninhabited apart from a few indigenous Indians who fish the local waters in their small boats and live in small villages on other islands and the very large populations of sea birds, including Pelicans, Cormorants and Frigate birds which treated us to a diving flying display at day break.
On arriving at our chosen anchorage the crew got the tender into the water and went for a swim to test out the new snorkelling gear, including the skipper whilst the mate and Steve Crowe watched on and laughed, it was freezing, and totally unexpected there were screams of horror and shock mainly from Steve the skipper, but after a while we got used to our new ocean.
The main thing about these islands is the amount of wild life, birds; we had a flight of pelicans fly past in perfect “V” formation right under the bow just inches off the water and later watched as the dive bombed for fish fantastic.
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To top it all off head chef Steve Crow and Dan Jason and Daniel prepared an evening meal of grilled chicken and salad, with various side dishes and that’s no mean feat remembering that our cooking facilities consist of two flame throwers mounted side by side. They have all mastered the art of tending Gipsy Moths galley and are coming together as a team well.
Right now they are asleep dreaming of what’s to come on the Gipsy Moth adventure in the morning and I am alone with my thoughts on anchor watch, the boat gently rocking like a baby in a cradle, from our anchorage I am listening to the swell breaking on the distant shoreline only to be interrupted by the odd bird call and the gentle rocking of Gipsy Moths rudder. The sky is the blackest ever, star studded by more stars than I have ever seen in one night in one place, and confusing, my favourite constellations are all at funny angles or upside down and in unexpected places, but then again I’ve never been here myself either.
Steve Rouse
Skipper Gipsy Moth IV Isla Viveros Panama
GOTCHA
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 Paradise Lost
Position At anchor 08° 37.3N 79° 92.1W Isla Contradora, Archipielago De Las Perlas
Weather, Wind NW 5 -10 kts Sunny, 36 degrees c
The day started with the dawn chorus of thousands of feeding sea birds flying past Gipsy Moth in perfect formation just inches off the water before peeling off and dive bombing the abundant shoals of fish that frequent these inshore bays. I never knew pelicans could be so big, one crashed into the sea feet from Gipsy moth and made such a splash I thought one of the lads had fallen in, only to see a pelican surface the size of a swan and gulp down its victim.
Sitting at anchor in the Las Perlas Islands is like being in a David Attenbrough wild life programme, with a 360° screen and its all happening literally just feet away, all this with an egg butty and a piping hot cup of coffee, the aerial display would have made a “Top Gun” pilot proud, pelicans in line ahead buzzed by frigate birds in deep “V” formations and then just when you were about to go below, a shout from one of the crew “look at this” brings everyone rushing to the bow. It seems that one flock of feeding pelicans has spotted a large shoal of fish and gave the call to all the other birds in the bay, it was total chaos birds were dropping out of the sky like hail stones and this lasted for at least 30 mins as the fish moved to try and escape the feeding frenzy their aerial adversaries just followed.
So onwards and to the shore within 2 runs we had the crew a shore on Isla Viveros and they were beach combing in no time at all, we soon selected our site for a lunch time bar b que that gave the most shade, the sun out here do’s not suffer fools and if you stay too long or do not cover up you get burnt. Steve Crowe now only 36 (this sailing is doing wonders) has taken over the role of head chef with a vengeance and with everything bagged stones stacked and charcoal lit we were ready for a real castaways experience. He did not disappoint and after a fine meal of local sausage Chrizio’s and a steak we were ready for a good afternoon nap. Skipper Steve had other ideas “lets see if we can do 2 beaches in one afternoon” he said and a with a tricky bit of pilotage between the islands thrown in for good measure, so up and away, back to the Gipsy Moth for yet more exploration, we are certainly packing it in, in our 2 days sailing after the magical canal transit, what a tale of two worlds!
We are off to Isla Contradora the most populated of the Las Perlas Islands and on the way back to our berth at Flamenco. We slipped anchor on time and motored out of the tight approach channel, within 3 hours we were anchored amidst other Blue water rally boats all heading south to Galapagos, after some more seat of the pants pilotage, with the pilot books saying the charts are not too good and our echo sounder finding just the wrong time to play up we managed to get safely onto our anchorage and add yet a few more grey hairs to my mop.
We are now preparing for a night sail back to Flamenco Marina to arrive by 10.00 hrs in the morning just to add a different sailing experience for this motley old bunch as they were when they arrived on Gipsy Moth, they are now becoming a well drilled crew and working as a team for each other all the time.
So tonight as I write this voyage log Steve Crowe 32 from Plymouth is rustling up a stir fry in our galley ably assisted by the no2 young Daniel whilst our boys from Cowes Dan and Jason under the ever watchful eye of the mate Simon are getting the sail plan sorted out and tiding up the deck, ready for our night sail.
The night motor went as planned with little or no wind and a rather welcome chill we had an uneventful night heading back to our berth in Flanmenco marina and just at breakfast time Jason called out “we got one” and after a short while our first fish came aboard and was ably dispatched and filleted by the skipper Steve Rouse, ready for the next meal, this therefore brings the curtain down on our final day. On the dock waiting to take our lines were the new skipper and mate Sam and Jon, as the curtain comes down on our leg a whole new era is about to start in the Gipsy Moth dream, Pacific Ocean and Galapagos here we come.
Steve Rouse
Skipper Gipsy Moth IV Isla Contradora Panama
REVIEW AND REFLECTION
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 Still Together Just A Little Browner
Position Berthed Flemenco marina Panama
Weather, Wind Calm > 15 kts Sunny, 36 degrees c
In high sprits the crew of Gipsy Moth leg 8 docked for the last time in Flamenco marina Panama. The last two days spent in the Las Perlas islands was the icing on the cake for all of us, with breath taking views and spectacular wild life, plenty of sun and the total isolation made it all a time to savour.
The transit of the Panama Canal was a good experience for us all, learning of the good that man can do when people from different nationalities all work together for a common good. It was awe inspiring for us all to bear witness to this great achievement and the sacrifice that thousands gave to make the Canal a reality.
So as the crew prepare to leave tomorrow and the two skippers and mates prepare to hand over this piece of our maritime heritage its maybe time to review and reflect on all that has gone on, for me it is the way the younger crew members have grown into the tasks that have been set and the experiences that they have had that may help in some small way to shape their lives in a positive way. This I believe is the true benefit of taking these chosen few to far away places, I hope this is so.
Simon the mate has worked tirelessly on or communications and is so as I Write this voyage log. It is bad enough to watch form the sidelines, knowing that there are thousands of people out there waiting to hear from Gipsy Moth IV and the crew, and we are as yet unable to find the fault. However undaunted by the complexity of the task Simon works on!!! The non human who drives himself beyond most peoples limits on a regular basis continues to check, check, and double check all the equipment and software.
Then onto the crew chief as I like to call them, Steve Crowe now only 31 (the fresh sea is doing wonders) was a real gem. Always happy to please, no task was too much and he looked after all the young crew members. A nicer more generous a man you would be hard pressed to find, it was a pleasure sailing with you mate, hope you continue to sail. Remember “every day spent sailing God does not deduct from your life! Seems like you need to keep sailing.
Having taken our lines when we arrived on the dock Sam and Jon proceeded to help us finish off repairs to the boat and carry out some improvements. Tomorrow is just another day and my last report from this leg.
Steve Rouse
Skipper Gipsy Moth IV Flamenco Marina Panama
SPARKS FLY
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 The A Team
Position Flamenco Marina Panama
Weather wind NE 15 Kts, Sunny, 35„a In the shade
This is my last voyage log this time out, I am handing the boat over to Sam Connelly and Jon Curtis both from the Isle of Wight, who I know are really looking forward to sailing to the Galapagos and enthralling you all with their exploits in the voyage log. They have promised me at least 2 pages per day.
So this voyage log is really like the credits at the end of a great adventure film, only this is not the end but the turning over of a new chapter in this magnificent adventure, this crew has had a life changing experience in more ways than one. Judging by the final interviews they had a great time, see the video clips on GMTV.
I hope my old mate Dick Durham from Yachting Monthly approves of me as an apprentice writer, I know that I still have a way to go but I am doing my best. Dick sailed the Gibraltar to Tenerife leg with me as the crew chief and did the bulk of the voyage log for me, I might have been the skipper but with Dick on the laptop I was the office junior, thanks for your help Dick.
Well I could bore you all and tell you what we have been doing during our hand over from skipper to skipper and mate to mate, the day starts when it gets light so we can get some work in before the sun gets up and the temperature follows. Lets just say another frantic day was spent keeping the old girl up to her normal high standard. Hand is over in full flow; it takes about a day and a half to do a good hand over of all equipment and procedures. This includes checking everything and continuing with repairs, oh and the comms men are now on the boat, its 20.15 and they have just gone back to their office for a few minutes and they will be back soon, looks like another late night. Hand over is due for completion at midday tomorrow and so far we are on target, fingers crossed that the comms will be working tonight! At least the suns gone down now and the cool breeze are making life a little more Liveable.
The comms men are now back on the boat putting in a new black box, Why dos everything depend on a black box these days, I think there is even one in the household washing machine. As I write the 3 wise men are making slow progress with the comms, frantic phone calls followed by a dozen shots at the software and more phone calls. Its 23.00 hrs now and the comms boys have made progress and will return in the morning hopefully to complete the job.
Steve Crowe now 29 and Daniel Brimacombe from Plymouth and Dan and Jason from Cowes departed at 07.00 this morning and the boat was strangely silent and peaceful. As I write this log they will be in the air, safe journey my friends it was great sailing with you and I hope you really enjoyed your Gipsy Moth experience.
The whole marina is now thinning out as the fleet of Blue Water Rally yachts head off towards the Las Perlas Islands and then on to the Galapagos fair winds and calm seas to you all hope to see you again soon. Gipsy Moth will be on your heels with a new crew in a few days. So its Steve the (Taz) and Simon (this man is not human) signing off, good luck and take care until the next time.
Steve Rouse
Skipper Gipsy Moth IV Flamenco Marina Panama |
