CHAPTER 11 - THE HAND-OVER COMPLETED
Date: 14/04/06
UTC –9.5 hrs
Position: Taiohae, Nuku Hiva, at anchor.
Chapter 11 – The Hand-over completed
By Antonia Nicholson (Skipper)
I officially took over this morning, Ray, Alistair and Sue departed on their two hour taxi ride to the airport. It sounds as though it is the most interesting taxi ride, all vehicles on the island are four wheel drive and we know why. Apparently the route takes them along a ridge with no crash barrier and then over the highest peak, (approx 2300m) passing the Grand Canyon. The alternative is an eight minute helicopter ride but is out of action for three days, we presume for routine maintenance.
Once again, I have a day and night alone on Gipsy Moth, I thought I saw someone in the cockpit earlier but realised it was the solar shower swinging of the mizzen stay. I continued to clean the rust from the lockers, put the oilskins away and generally tidy up. I have just spent four weeks on a six month old 45’ aluminium catamaran, so to be back on GM is quite a shock to the system. I sailed across from the Galapagos too as part of the Blue Water Rally. I was rather spoilt and had a hull to myself, with private head and separate shower room. However the water maker broke down so after dismantling it the skipper Bernard decided to order a brand new one. My recommendation was Seafresh, as on GM, so from a choice of three companies, Seafresh won the vote.
There were only three of us onboard, this was a novelty for me as was the double bed with real pillows and duvet- something I really miss. We had a very relaxed sail across the pacific ocean mainly under spinnaker alone. I have never really thought about multi-hulls before but for long distance downwind cruising they are definitely the way forward. I have a whole page of advantages. Apart from twice as much space, there was no rattling in the cupboards and you could actually put a glass of water down without worrying too much about it spilling!
It was only two months ago that Ray and I handed the boat over to Steve and Simon at Panama, but since then she has done over 4500 miles. Unfortunately her stern and waterline are covered in some type of soft shelled barnacle and brown algae, however we think the fish are enjoying a nibble at it. This will be a job for the new recruits!
Finally I would like to say to all whom we have sailed with on Gipsy Moth IV that I hope you are following her progress. I haven’t forgotten any of you, not even Phil, Kal and Shaun last October when we cruised from Gibraltar before the start of the BWR. Every leg is unique as it faces new challenges, brings people together and takes many people to places they would never imagine going to. I have seen some beautiful places recently, thanks to GMIV and this island Niku Hiva is one of my favourites. It is so tranquil with stunning green lush hills & mountains all around. I hope the new crew that arrive tomorrow afternoon will not be too jet lagged to appreciate it!
THE MYSTICAL MARQUESAS WELCOMES A NEW CREW
(click for a larger image)
Mystical Marquesas
Date: 15/04/06
UTC –9.5 hrs
Position: Taiohae, Nuku Hiva, at anchor.
The Mystical Marquesas welcomes the new crew
By Antonia Nicholson (Skipper)
My day started at 5am at the Saturday market, it was not what one would normally expect but there were about five tables laid out with locally grown produce and bread , that was it! Many locals were there with their kids running around yet it was still dark. I am glad I made the effort to go because there was no fresh produce at all in either of the 2 supermarkets today, except breadfruit and imported potatoes which I already have. I bought a lettuce, some tomatoes, 3 cucumbers, a cabbage and about 10 carrots, plus some coconut bread, you may wonder why I am telling you this but they are the most expensive vegetables I have ever bought! They came to £15
The crew of leg 11 arrived this afternoon to the misty hill tops
and immense heat of the mystical Marquesas. They are Charlie, 16, from Cowes; Emmanuel, 16 from Manchester, Kim, 16 also from Manchester. Emmanuel and Kim were selected through the Brightside Trust and Charlie was the Isle of Wight County Press competition winner. Linda Crew-Gee has joined us too and is here on behalf of Yachting Monthly and my First Mate is Christopher Bruce, aka Brucey from the UKSA.
They were very impressed with their mini tour from the airport and had been able to stop and take photos. After two trips in the dinghy, we were all on board with luggage. Following a quick brief and being delegated a bunk we squashed ourselves into the dinghy and went ashore to explore. We discovered real free range chickens, which roam everywhere, the odd horse tethered to some grass, some frangipani falling from a tree, plus some grapefruit, mango and breadfruit trees. These were a novelty. We visited the ancient meeting place that was cornered by stone tikis each telling a story. However I think we needed a local to tell us a bit more and explain some of the mystery. After some photographs and some filming we returned to the boat just before dark. Charlie was really keen to have a swim so once the boarding ladder was set up he went in for a swim and darkness was just falling. Emmanuel and Kim followed his every move, so already they are looking out for each other.
Meanwhile, Linda and I cooked some defrosted chicken and semi frozen stir fry vegetables. It took a while so our new recruits sat in the cockpit under the starlit sky, struggling to stay awake. I hadn’t really noticed the roll until they said they felt sea sick so I sent them all to bed and let them off the washing up! Hopefully after a good sleep they will feel better. While I was showing Linda where the veg is kept she saw the single lettuce and said “ the sacred lettuce- how fortunate we are”. So that will be our Easter treat tomorrow along with some rather large green yet delicious grapefruits because I haven’t seen any Easter Eggs nor any Easter bunnies.
So Gipsy Moth IV and her new team wish you all a very happy Easter
TEAM BONDING TREK TO VAIPO
(click for a larger image)
Team Bonding
Sunday 16 April – Hakatea Bay, Nuka Hiva
Team Bonding Trek to Vaipo Waterfall – Hakatea Bay
By Linda Crew–Gee, for Yachting Monthly
We woke up to a morning sunshine in the calms of Taihoe Bay that looked imposingly beautiful. Good night’s sleep got us all refreshed and we were keen to move on. We weighed our anchor at 9.30 which was easier said than done as some of the deck hands were never on a sailing boat before. We soon realised that our passage is going to consist of a lot of hard work and that is how the rest of the day was.
As our passage was going to take us only 40 minutes we decided to motor to Hakatea Bay instead of sailing. Excitement among the crew was so evident especially as we rounded a headland and Emmanuel took the helm for the first time ever. This brought a big smile on his face but also some worry as well because the swell on occasions was big and the boat was rolling a lot at times. The rest of us tried to find a comfortable place in a shade admiring the coastline. Harsh outline of steep and suddenly broken hills that tumbled into see was softened by green vegetation that was covering every square inch of the coast. As one crevasse unfolded after the other we continued to comment about this outstanding wild beauty that was surrounding us.
Once in the Hakatea Bay we all jumped into the sea to cool down. Visibility was very poor and even with a mask it was not possible to see the bottom of Gipsy Moth’s keel however this did not stop us to get on with work. We got out our masks and fins, rigged up the ropes and got on with work – barnacles scraping. A suitable tools very in short supply as credit card / plastic card was the best tool for the job. After an hour or so we were pretty tired as the current was strong and holding onto the ropes with one hand and scraping with the other was not easy.
There was no rest though. We all jumped into jammed packed tiny dinghy and set off on a trek to Vaipo Waterfall – one of the island’s most imposing sights. The walk inside a deep river valley gave us an opportunity to admire at length an outstanding beauty of our surroundings. It was very hot and every cloud and tree that provided a bit of shade was welcomed. Suddenly a road stopped and with no signs or available map to help us we spend some time exploring the area in different direction until we discovered a path on the other side of the river. This was the first of the 4 river crossings we had to do – each of which gave us a lot of fun. Every second of this two hour walk in a sweltering heat was worth the effort as we reached our destination. We walked out of thick tropical vegetation and saw a most amazing sight around us. A natural amphitheatre 300 meters high was surrounding us – covered in as thick and as green vegetation as we walked through for hours. Tumbling waterfall was above our heads and an opening in the sky was small.
We stood in awe of it, in disbelief that we found ourselves in such a special, secluded and remote, nearly unknown place hardly visited by anyone. If you have not been here before – cross the world to see it, it is worth it.
We got back on a boat pretty exhausted, sun-burnt, hungry and thirsty but well happy that we visited such a rare shrine of natural beauty today. There was still dinner to cook, logs to write, videos to edit and all of this in a sweating heat of Gipsy Moth cabin. Within 24 hours we feel we became a family – we shared so much, we learnt so much….
GRACIOUS LADY TAKES IT IN HER STRIDE
17th April 2006
Bay des Tai Oa to Ua-Pou, Marquesas, South Pacific
We awoke this morning to another early start thanks to jet lag. The crew were rather lethargic at first, due to sunburn but also the expedition to the waterfall on the previous day. As breakfast was cleared away, Charlie and Emmanuel deflated the dinghy and stored it on deck. We then began to prepare the boat to sail for the first time as a crew. The passage to Ua-Pou was around 30 miles, which was an ideal distance to introduce them to the boat.
The crew rigged the staysail and the running sail in preparation. We then hoisted the anchor and Kim helmed us out of the bay and to the open sea. The wind was an easterly force 5 so we started off with a full main and the staysail, which were hoisted and set by Brucey and Emmanuel. The first hour the boat was steady but underpowered, as we crept away from Nuka Hiva at 4 knots. Antonia requested the running sail so Brucey and Charlie went forward. After a slight error in the rigging of the sheets, the boat accelerated to speeds of up to 8 knots. With the extra sail the boat was more balanced and began to drive through the waves, which was a surprise to the crew who had expected a slow and rolling ride.
I want to tell you about Gipsy Moth’s drive through the waves. I took her helm for the first time ever, while she was still underpowered. Nothing felt that wrong but neither right however once we got going there was no stopping her and she showed off in her full glory. This gracious lady was just flying with 20 knots of wind on her beam and in moderate seas. Every roller that she met she took in her stride with determination and maturity. It was exhilarating sailing and being on her helm was an ultimate ecstasy nothing more nor less. Everything was just perfect: the boat, the sea, the weather and the company. Gipsy Moth gave us our first thrilling day sailing and we wondered if it was to thank us for scraping off many itching barnacles off her long keel robes yesterday or was it for washing off the mud from her sailing suite today.
Emmanuel, Chris and Kim hid from the sun on the stern while Antonia, Brucey and Linda endeavoured to point even closer to the wind, to get her going faster, to have even more fun with her. We just kept repeating – this is beautiful, this is sheer joy and fun. We arrived at Ua Pou early afternoon – much earlier than expected. Marquises once again greeted us with their wild and imposing, majestic beauty wrapped up in clouds and hiding some of its best treasures from us probably for the dawn.
The crew assembled on the deck to complete all deck duties. We pumped up the dinghy and headed for the shore. But the swell was too high and a beach hostile – so we had to retreat back to the boat where all of us shared our best moments of the day.
By 9pm, when I am writing this, Emmanuel, Chris, Brucey and Kim are in their deep dreams being gently rolled up by Gipsy Moths kind spirit. We need a good nights sleep as tomorrow we set off on our first overnight passage.
So if you are contemplating what to do next in your life – waste no time and decide. Head for the Pacific and sail with us!
Co written by Brucey (First mate from UKSA) and Linda Crew Gee for Yachting Monthly
A LOOK AT CHALLENGES AND PERSONAL ACHEIVEMENTS
Position: 10 56 S 140 45 W
Motor sailing @ 6 knots
Marquesas to the Tuamotus
A look at Challenges and Personal Achievements
We crawled out of our bunks about 7.30 this morning and within half an hour we were in the cockpit for our first team meeting. Since our landing and arrival on the boat there has been no time to pose and talk. Over cereal bowls and cups of teas we discussed our challenges and achievements, this was chaired by our Crew Leader and Yachting Monthly writer, Linda. The main challenges appeared to be managing the intense sun’s heat, heat exhaustion or jet lag and the nauseous feeling . As we had not started a watch system we discussed the challenges to come such as getting up at midnight or three in the morning, cooking at sea, and even the simple chore of washing and brushing your teeth can take some effort and the biggest one is living in very close quarters with people you hardly know. Each morning so far, Brucey takes the three crew to the bow to hoist the anchor, this is their least favourite moment. Charlie even offered to do the washing up in the hope that he could get out of it. They have enquired about the red and white windlass on the deck but we said it’s not a good team building exercise nor does it need much effort to use, but this morning when we tried it, it still needed the three of them to operate it safely!
Our watch system started at 2000h, so most of the crew were in bed straight after supper. They have managed remarkably well today, hiding from the intermittent sun under the awning on the aft deck when not helming. Fortunately, the sky was overcast so we could all helm comfortably without getting too hot. Throughout the day they accomplished the art of steering by the original compass and began to understand where the wind is coming from, and then used the wind instruments to steer by.
Unfortunately the wind did not pick up enough for us to sail without the engine so we have had that going most of the time. However, we do have the mainsail, running sail and mizzen sail up. Each day the crew are learning more about the sails and the plan is to get them able to put the sails up and down between the three of them without Brucey’s help by the end of this trip.
We have approximately 375 miles to go so at 6 knots that’s just over two and a half days. Skipper Antonia says it’s imperative that we arrive in Makemo, our first atoll during daylight as they are very low lying and surrounded by reef. We are all really looking forward to seeing these fascinating places and snorkelling but in the meantime our team bonding will be getting stronger, we’ll be facing more challenges and of course achieving some great things and that will all be in the space of a week since arriving, for some people this takes weeks or even months.
By Antonia Nicholson, Skipper (UKSA)
THE FIRST NIGHT WATCH- WHY ARE WE HERE?
Position: 11deg 52 34 S 141deg 08 572 W
Sailing @ 5-6 knots with the cruising shute
Marquesas to the Tuamotus
The First Night Watch - Why are we here?
Antonia set up our watch system by which we will be 3 hours on watch and 6 hours off watch in pairs. We will split half way through the watch so that each of us will spend time with 2 different people. We felt apprehensive and excited about the prospects of spending few hours on our own in charge of the boat in middle of the night and in a middle of nowhere. We had an early dinner and then we headed for our bunks so that we can get few hours sleep before our watch comes up. Antonia and Kim stayed on the first watch. Some of us could not really go to sleep because of rocking and rolling of the boat, lying in our bunks like mesmerised by constant sound and motion.
I was neither awake nor asleep but like aware that I am in a different state of existence. I was laying in my front cabin ‘cot’ and felt waves brushing against my sweating body. I tried to comprehend and imagine expanse that surrounded me: a profound ocean depth below me, a colossal amount of water that I was floating in, huge distance to the millions of stars above me. I felt small and huge at the same time, insignificant in relation to the enormity of nature surrounding me and huge in terms of me being integral part of it. I trusted the sea, the wind, Gipsy Moth and the team to take me through this personally cosmological and metaphysical moments. Total abandonment washed away by the sound of the waves. I did not want to wake up and neither to go to sleep – this reality was much more than any dream and deep within my being, I realised that on this beautiful and enormous planet I coexist within it in synchrony.
As I stepped into the cockpit millions of bright distant stars greeted me, huge waves were waving at me and the wind was playing silly games with Gipsy Moth’s sail robes yet again. Millions of stars have fallen into the sea twinkling on every crest of a wave and like magic has been sprinkled everywhere. Charlie and eventually Kim could not wait to tell me about what they felt, thought and saw and how enriching their night watch experience has been. We looked at the moon, the stars and the see in awe – knowing that that we are sharing some important moments and experience.
Back to reality - I could tell you that we felt utterly exhausted, lethargic and sick and getting into our bunks we dropped dead asleep. With the sun high we slowly crawled out of our bunks and took turns on helm in silence. Each of us radiating enormity of our last night experience, enriched, enlightened and fulfilled.
The day went on uneventfully as we saw our sea legs to grow! As if our enriched spirits enabled us to put all our physical ailments into prospective. We cope much better with the heat, sickness, tiredness and a lack of sleep as we now know that the rewards for this are all worth it.
I think I now know what those people who take to the oceans as a way of life and who have the sea under their skin or in their blood feel, experience and think when committing their lives to the sea.
It remains to be seen what our life paths are going to be.
Linda Crew-Gee (Yachting Monthly)
GIPSY MOTH GETS HER KNICKERS IN A TWIST
(click for a larger image)
Bloomers between the forestay
Position: Latitude 12 17 13 S Longitude 141 17 685 W
Sailing @ 4 knots
Marquesas to the Tuamotus
19 April – 7pm till midnight
Gipsy Moth Gets her Knickers in a Twist
Stalled in a middle of the Pacific Ocean the full crew tried for 5 hours to untwist her knickers without success. It seems that it was not a modern g-string but a proper of old fashioned bloomers which she, having a mind of her own and probably to save her dignity, untwisted by herself.
To know what this is all about read on; there is quite a story to tell, as typical and as unusual as sailing story gets.
You might recall that in my previous log I told you that the day went on uneventfully. This was the case at 6pm by which time we completed all our daily duties and even managed to write and post our daily log so that we could relax and regroup before our 2nd night watch. The early evening was as mellow as the rest of the day – rolling sea, gentle breeze, moderate temperature all perfect setting for a peaceful evening. We were just sitting in the cockpit admiring the sunset and chatting away. Our young crew was already preparing a meal and we were all salivating over prospects of eating a delicious meal. This is just to set the scene, here is the rest of the story as lived and told by each member of the crew.
Antonia, the skipper – successfully led the whole team during this nerve wrecking experience
Brucey, the mate – went up the mast to resolve the problem
Kim, Charlie and Emmanuel – on deck assistance
Linda - on the helm and on watch when eventually all was resolved
Brucey (the joys of being mate)- I was assisting Charlie and Emmanuel cooking down below when Antonia asked me to turn on the spreader lights as she feared the spinnaker had wrapped around the forestay. It had. At first myself and Antonia tried in vain to untangle the spinnaker from the deck passing it around the forestay. Every time we thought the spinnaker was untwisting, it just got worse. The boat has two forestays and the spinnaker was not only wrapped around them so tightly that the two were together, but it was also twisted between them as well.
We hoped that the spinnaker might sort itself out, but it didn’t. After a short struggle, it was decided that I had to go up the mast. Antonia, Charlie and Emmanuel pulled me up the mast. It was not too windy but because we were going dead downwind the boat was rolling from side to side, making it an uncomfortable climb. As I passed the spreader lights the crew lost sight of me. I shouted down for the spinnaker halyard to be released. The spinnaker was so twisted it didn’t slip but it enabled me to pull through some slack to attach it to myself as well.
I then attached my safety harness to the forestay. I wasn’t too keen on this but with the motion of the boat I was not going to be able to hang on for too long, and I could see myself being up there for a while. I wrapped my legs around the forestay and began sliding down. The top part became untwisted easily, but the amount of effort needed to hold on as I was flung around, but also to pull the whole sail up through my legs and then around the forestay, made this a slow and arduous task. I got to the main tangle but the forestays were under so much strain that I could not pull the spinnaker through them, and also my safety harness had become part of the mess. I swung into the rigging and after a few attempts I managed to hold on to the staysail. Antonia and Charlie tried in vain to untangle it from the bottom, so it was decided that I would tie it up so it couldn’t get any worse and we would leave it until daylight.
I returned to the deck bruised and Antonia handed me the arnica cream in preparation. As a bonus though I had spent the whole of my watch untangling the spinnaker so I was relieved to be able to return to my bunk. I awoke for my next watch, and much to my relief the spinnaker was down. HOW?
LINDA - I was on the helm for 5 hours and had to make sure that we stayed on course straight down-wind with main sail and mizzen up and no engine. There was not much wind although it came in light gusts and the sea was relatively calm. I had to make sure that the boat rocked as little as possible and that the wind was coming from a desired direction at the time, neither of which was actually easy to achieve or possible. Intensity of concentration and a need to be focused all the time was a must and although I was dying to join the rest of the crew on the deck or to take at least one photograph from a better position than from a cockpit – I could not leave my post for a split second. I saw them messing about with ropes for hours and eventually Brucey was lifted up the mast with great winch squeaks and grinding noises. I hoped everything would hold up and he would come back safely to the deck. While he was trying to undo the sail up I saw him flying back and forth many times. It was like watching a trapeze.
Once everything was over I had to stay on watch until 2am joined by Kim. About 1pm when on a lookout I noticed in disbelief that the big bundle of cruising sail that was tightly wrapped up and tied down to the forestays had come down nearly reaching the deck. I was in doubt if to wake up Antonia and let her know of this or to wait for her watch to come up – which was only in 45 minutes. Another option was to go on deck and check it out myself, but for this I needed to wake her up as well. So, I decided to wait as to give her more of a much needed sleep. Half an hour later I started having difficulties in steering the boat but with not much wind and me getting tired after 7 hours of helming I thought I was loosing concentration and I just needed to refocus. However things did not feel right or got better as I could not get the boat on the course. I looked at the sea and it felt as if the boat was not moving at all and a look at the speed log confirmed this. Horrors of horrors - I envisage the whole spinnaker wrapped up around the whole of Gipsy Moth’s keel and the propeller – although the engine sounded fine. There was no time to waste and I woke up Antonia.
Antonia, Kim and I stuffed the shute in the bag hoping that all our troubles for today were over. Brucey was well pleased when he got up as there was no need to climb up the mast again if it wasn’t for a halyard…… but that is another story.
It remains a mystery how and why the cruising chute got disentangled from the twin stays, and what is even more mysterious is that none of it was ripped or torn!
EMMANUEL – Charlie and I were cooking dinner assisted by Brucey, when half way through dinner Brucey was called up to the deck by Antonia, not knowing what it was about Charlie and I carried on cooking up some grub. After we were done we served up only to realise that Brucey and Antonia weren’t going to be back any time soon still not knowing what the problem was, Kim, Charlie and I went ahead and munched away and I have to say it was pretty good stuff for 3 blokes. Anyways after a while Brucey and Antonia came to the cockpit and grabbed some dinner.
After they were done we were all told to put on life jackets and come to the deck it was only then that we realised what the problem actually was the cruising chute was all tangled up and I must admit the first thing that came to my mind was rather selfishly “ damn! When am I gonna get some sleep? I got night watch soon!”
Swiftly moving on Brucey and Antonia tried in vain to untangle it while Kim recorded it and Charlie and I watched on helplessly. After a while we all realised that trying to untangle it wasn’t working so Brucey readied himself to try and tackle it from above, he had to climb the mast or rather we had to pull him up.
Once Brucey was kitted up we all got ready to haul him up which was tough work because Brucey is not light by any stretch of imagination. As he came to the top we could only imagine what is was like for Brucey up there as he had gone out of sight. After I while we started to lower him down till he was level with the chute by now Brucey was swinging all over the place and I couldn’t stop myself from imagining something terrible happening. After a while Brucey came to the conclusion that nothing else could be done now until morning so we lowered him down, cleared the deck which was full of loose ropes and headed straight for bed.
Through all of this I have to say, I was really scared both for Brucey up the mast and myself as I didn’t want to go over board in the night and I was constantly hoping praying that the problem was resolved soon and it seems my prayers were answered because by morning the chute had untangled itself and was no longer a problem. Thank God!
CHARLIE - Me and Emmanuel were cooking dinner under the watchful eyes of Brucey when all of a sudden Brucey was called up on deck me and Emmanuel took no notice of this and carried on cooking the feast for that night. After about 1 hour later every one had eaten and all was cleaned up and put away there was still no Antonia or Brucey we knew this was serious now. Soon all or worries disappeared and they both came back, they ate their dinner which I thought was excellent and went back on deck but this time they asked all of us to put on our life jackets we all were in suspense to find out what could have gone so horribly wrong on such a perfect boat?
When we all arrived on deck we saw the problem the cruising chute had got all tangled up around the rigging this could be a problem! Antonia tried once again to untangle it by hand but it was no use, Brucey thought that the only way would be to tackle it from above. This meant winching him up in a bosons chair and he aint the smallest of men to say the least this would be one of our biggest tests of team work for the whole journey. Brucey reluctantly got into the safety equipment and mentally prepared himself for the challenge ahead…….
Antonia - as Skipper I have been asked to add my bit, I don’t need to repeat the story but we were really enjoying the sunset and waiting for our dinner. I suddenly realised that the cruising shute had goner rather quiet. It was just one of those annoying things and I have never seen such a mess. I preferred Linda to stay steering downwind because overall this was more manageable and comfortable. After dinner we thought we were nearly there but we could see that the chute was in between the twin stays and the spare halyard was also caught up in it. These things are just sent to try us, I have to say that I didn’t hear a single moan from anyone, not even Brucey who was being swung around like a rag doll. After 5 hours, I decided that we couldn’t achieve anymore so Brucey wrapped the halyard around the top part of the shute and I wrapped a sail tie around the middle which I could just reach. That should be secure until daylight, I thought. However, I was awoken by Kim telling me that the boat wasn’t moving but I could hear the engine so in a dreary state I grabbed my lifejacket and joined the girls in the cockpit. As I looked to the bow, I saw that the sail was hanging over the side- how on earth had that happened? Anyway, we heaved the sail back on deck and I was very relieved to see that it was not completely under the boat.
Just another funny little going on, something quite frequent with Gipsy Moth IV!
PS: Charlie got too hot and tired to finish this, and Kim was on dinner duty.
Gipsy Moth Crew
UP THE MAST AND DOWN IT COMES
(click for a larger image)
Emmanuel up the forestay
Position: Latitude 14 00.52S Longitude 144 51.59W
Motor Sailing @ 5.5 knots
Marquesas to the Tuamotus
Up the Mast and Down It Comes
Up the Mast
After last night’s ordeal we all took it easy today, trying to restore energy and catch up with sleep. However, the halyard which Brucey, 25, first mate, had wrapped around the cruising shute the previous night to prevent it from billowing out, was still half way up the mast. (Somehow the cruising shute and managed to slip from underneath it). Someone needed to be taken up to retrieve it as soon as possible while we still had calm seas. I volunteered to be lifted because I wanted to see what it felt like to be high up and how this would compare with my previous climbing experience. I was also the lightest one to lift up. We rigged everything up and in no time I was on my way in the rather large bosun’s chair. I also had a safety line strapped to the forestays and this made my journey totally uneventful in terms of uncontrollable swings which I think is the most scary part of going up a mast. The day was sunny and clear so I could see far. As I scanned the horizon I felt as if I was sent on a mission to look for a possible bountiful distant land or for any pirate ships that might be sneaking behind us. I felt detached from the boat and high up in the sky as if I could fly. Looking down to the deck, the crew seemed distant and small but because I was not swinging as much as Brucey had done the previous night I was not as worried as I though I would have been. The hardest part was to hold onto the twin forestays with my legs and arms. A pain in my arms and inability to hold on for any length of time reminded me of pumped up arms when climbing overhanging rocks. Once I had had a go, our three crew all aged 16 also wanted to be hoisted up. So sat in a bosun’s chair, dressed in a lifejacket, helmet, long trousers, shoes and gloves they were each hoisted up by Brucey and Antonia, one on each line with the assistance of one other, the third being on the helm of course. They all enjoyed their few minutes of fairly controlled swinging above the deck and the exhilaration that it brings. It’s a good test of trust in others and of course character building. Emmanuel, 16, was rather apprehensive about going up but after a few metres and some time to take in the sight he asked to be hoisted higher. This of course was another achievement to be added to their list while sailing on Gipsy Moth IV.
Down it Comes – a novice’s view
We were all sitting in the cockpit and getting ready for our first game of cards before cooking the dinner. As soon as the cards were brought out rain started and everyone eventually went down below, except Brucey and I. I picked up my light waterproof jacket and put it on a top of a bikini I was wearing so that I didn’t get totally soaked while on the helm till 8pm.
Looking behind me I noticed that this was not going to be a small passing drizzle like we had had during the day, but a serious downpour as a dark curtain formed all the way from the sky down to the sea just behind us. Brucey and I were commenting about a nice cool-down we were going to get because it has been very hot every day. I was looking forward to this new experience.
I noticed that it got dark suddenly. The wind picked up from 5 knots to 20 knots in a matter of seconds. I could not understand what was going on and where on earth this wind has come from or why. The rain curtain and the sea had merged into one. Miraculously Brucey was with me in the cockpit and he was telling me which course to steer while he was going to adjust the sails. The wind increased to 30 knots - will this ever stop and how bad can it get? When Brucey left to go to the aft-deck I thought will I ever see him again and we will have to do man overboard in this wind which no man could possibly control? By this time it was so dark that I could see nothing on the compass which has a dim little light and tiny dials (the original Gipsy Moth compass is fitted to the mizzen mast in the cockpit and is behind you when steering the boat!) It’s entire surface was covered in rain drops. I spent what seemed like ages trying to get the reading, hanging onto the tiller hoping that I would not suddenly be thrown to the other side of the cockpit. Eventually I found 240 degrees which was the course to steer – only for Brucey to come back and discover that I was doing 340 instead! I knew this was bad news but I was so happy to see him back, not only because he was still alive but also to help me with the mayhem that I was in. Realisation that we were heading North instead of SW set me into more panic as I did not know which implications this might have.
Inside the cabin Antonia was cooking a dinner and everything ran as normal. They asked me which sauce I would prefer to have with the pasta, and they were discussing how to serve it and when. I found this bizarre as if I was in a theatre of absurd play. At the same time I think it gave me assurance that not everything was as bad as it seemed to me. Antonia soon came out fully kitted out in a wet gear, life-jacket and harness to help with the sails. This gave me even more confidence that maybe things would get under control. Brucey was smiling and in good spirit all the time not getting upset with me or shouting at all, although I was steering the boat in totally the wrong direction and could not hold the course at all.
All of this restored my confidence and after a while it seems as if I was able to think because I reassured myself that as we have not died by now we probably have a good chance to survive. I felt more angry that I could not see and read the compass than scared of death and I found it incredibly exciting and exhilarating by being able to find myself in this situation. The whole ordeal lasted for about an hour but to me it seemed like ages. I was shivering and freezing cold, totally drenched but I was so happy of having survived and being part of it, and I definitely would like to experience something similar again, with a mate on my side! During my ordeal I fully understood a concept of a ‘mate’. Brucey – the mate, was like an angel saviour to me, putting me at ease and knowing what to do plus doing it for me! What more can one wish in a situation like this.
Brucey and Antonia later told me it was only a tiny squall. On a different boat they were sailing recently in a similar situation they closed the hatches, put loud music on waiting for it to ware off! This put it into prospective and cheered me up. There should be many more opportunities for my thrills and in so many ways it is nice to be a relative novice.
This is how Chris Bruce (we call him Brucey, age 25) saw the situation:
Last night whilst on watch with Linda, it was just as the sun had gone down, and the sky started to cloud over. Heavy rain followed so I took the opportunity to have a shower. Just as I finished the wind picked up from 5 knots to 30 knots in a matter of seconds. We had the mizzen up and a full main, and had been motoring all day. I went back to Linda in the cockpit and she was having difficulty steering due to the weather helm. I put on my lifejacket, eased out the main, and then dropped the mizzen. Heavy rain followed and Linda was unable to hold a course. The whole ordeal was just a tiny squall to me but for Linda it was a new experience, and one which she was glad not to be on her own for. The rain continued as we sat on deck and the crew cooked dinner in the warm and dry.
By Linda Crew-Gee (Yachting Monthly, age 49)
ARRIVING AT MANIHI ATOLL
22nd April 2006
Position: 14 27 89S 146 02 14 W
Zero wind, boiling hot! At anchor
Arriving at Manahi Atoll
At about 2am last night Antonia gave us the good news that there was less than 50 miles to go. As the sun rose this morning everyone was excited about the prospect of a swim and a rest after what to the crew had been a long 4 days motor
sailing. As we approached the atoll Antonia was checking the navigation as the entrance is only about 20 metres wide with strong currents, and once inside it is full of shallow patches and coral reefs. These shallows are mostly marked on the chart, but can be up to 200 metres out. The only solution was to have a member of the crew hoisted up the mast in order to see the shallow patches from a distance.
As Linda prepared herself to be hoisted the crew set about readying the boat. The sails were neatly flaked and the staysail was put away. The running sail was moved over to the port side of the boat out of the way of the anchor, and the anchor was reconnected and the required amount of chain flaked and readied on the deck. The crew were proving their teamwork. As Linda was hoisted by Charlie and Emmanuel Kim recorded the log on the entrance.
The entrance itself was well marked by 2 posts, and there is a main dock for the village where supply ships come in and also boats can tie up for short stays to provision. The atoll is approximately 5 miles wide and 15 miles long. It has a hotel at the western end and pearl farms are scattered throughout. We had chosen an anchorage at the south east corner of the atoll close to the village, or so we thought. We negotiated the entrance and Linda shouted directions from above. Once we were clear of the entrance channel Brucey set a course for Antonia to follow, but we did not know the exact nature of the sea bed. Just as well Linda stayed aloft, for as we approached the anchorage there were two reefs, which could only have been seen from a height.
The boat was anchored and the crew set about final tidying before all jumping in for a swim to cool down. Brucey and Charlie had an encounter with a reef shark, much to the amusement of the rest of the crew, as they both sped back to the boat. The sun shade was put up and we sat down for lunch. After lunch Antonia, Linda and Emmanuel set out in the tender for the village to top up on water supplies. The water maker has not been functioning properly for the last two days so we have been using salt water for washing and minimal amounts of freshwater. Hopefully that will be fixed before we leave, but we now have filled our tanks so it is not a major issue. Also on the to do list is the primus stove and the outboard engine. The stove at its best is brilliant, but we have been down to one hob the last few meals and now we are down to none. This didn’t matter so much this evening as it is so hot that the crew settled for a cold dinner, but again hopefully it will be fixed before we leave. Another little problem is the outboard engine. Unfortunately it has a fuel leak, as one of the valves has ceased to function, so the quick trip to the village turned into a marathon row. But all in all it has been a successful sail and as the crew are learning, maintenance is a major part of sailing. Tomorrow will be a day of rest and preparation for the next part of the journey.
By Chris Bruce aka Brucey, First mate, UKSA.
GOING ASHORE AT MANIHI
(click for a larger image)
 23rd April 2006
Position: At anchor in a coral atoll, Manihi, Tuamotus
A Day of Maintenance and relaxation at Manahi
Today the crew arose slightly later than usual. After a morning dip, breakfast was served and the day planned. As the crew set upon washing the decks, Brucey and Antonia took on the primus stove. The spares which the crew had brought out to the boat were slightly different, but after working until 2am last night the efforts paid off. Just as the crew finished the decks they were greeted with a hot chocolate as a reward. Despite the baking heat I think they drank just to keep Brucey and Antonia happy.
The next task was to remove the broken outboard from the tender and find all the spare water canisters. We then planned to row the two miles to the village in hope of finding fresh water. Then a stroke of luck. A local boat was waved over by Linda. She disappeared with the water canisters, and returned with them all full. They had also given us some frozen chicken, some frozen water, a bunch of coconuts and what can only be described as a coconut sword. We welcomed them aboard and Linda and Antonia were able to speak French so naturally we offered money, but they refused. Instead we exchanged all of the above for 4 Gipsy Moth stickers, some felt tip pens for the children and a pack of chocolate biscuits. Upon leaving the family offered us a lift to the village in the morning so we can top up on supplies before departing.
We waved goodbye and Brucey took the coconuts and the “sword” to the bow and looked like a natural as he delicately hacked away in search of milk. The crew passed it around and sat thinking of the local’s generosity. We still have five more. We then loaded the tender with lunch and Emmanuel and Kim rowed to shore as the rest of the crew snorkelled over the reef. The beach was like a scene from a film. The approach was coral, and the shallows were as warm as a bath. The beach had white sands and was covered with palm trees. We sat and ate our salami, sardine and cheese sandwiches and just watched in awe. The water was so clear we could see fish swimming and as the palm trees shaded us, none of us could really believe how there could be somewhere so beautiful and unspoilt. It really is paradise.
After lunch we snorkelled and rowed the tender around the edge of the atoll in the hope of sighting the pacific ocean outside. We were not disappointed. We left the tender and the gear on the beach and walked the last leg. We took the waterproof housing for the video camera and waded out in knee deep water. A hundred metres to the south there were waves breaking as the ocean met the shallows of the atoll and a hundred metres to the north was a white sand beach littered with palm trees and tropical undergrowth. Emmanuel donned a snorkel for the first time ever, and took the camera underwater and filmed the fish. The fish didn’t even mind us being there and swam around our legs and posed for the camera. For someone who is not a keen swimmer, Emmanuel took a liking to the water and if it wasn’t for the mosquitoes coming out for feeding time, myself and Linda could have had a job persuading him to leave.
We waded back to the beach and strolled back to the tender. As we rowed back the sun was beginning to set and the thought of a barbeque spurred the crew on. We packed away the gear and Charlie, Emmanuel and Kim lit the barbeque. Linda and Antonia marinated the chicken, and the first wings hit the grill as we watched the red skies during our final night at Manahi. The kettle was also boiled, and as I am writing wafts of chicken are coming down the companionway. Food is the way to a first mates heart so we must leave you for now. Tomorrow we are setting sail to Rangiroa, which is about 90 miles and we expect to arrive on Tuesday.
By Chris Bruce aka Brucey (UKSA first mate)
THE TRAPPINGS OF PARADISE
24th April 2006
The Trappings of Paradise
Position: 14 30 S 146 20 W
Last night we had a most delicious dinner and the most magical evening so far. We ate on the aft deck lit up by candlelight. The water was as still as a frozen lake and gave a strong reflection of the colourful sky in hues of green, rose, pink, red, orange, purple and violet. The lagoon water was bathing in a strong green, red and purple. Dark fell pretty soon and so the stars followed which is a special event every night. However last night was extra special because they were also reflecting in the water which later on got filled up with twinkling planktons everywhere around Gipsy Moth’s hull. We got totally mesmerised and absorbed by this beauty which inspired us to talk about Gaia theory and a synchrony of nature. If it wasn’t for mosquitoes that spoilt this paradise, we would have slept on the deck under the starry sky.
We got up at 6am this morning to clean the boat and prepare it for our next passage. We were greeted by a golden lagoon, a similar sight to the previous night, just the sun was in the totally opposite direction. Any task at such a perfect setting was easy to do and we worked with vigour. Soon Loana came in her motor boat to pick us up and take us to the village that was at least 3 miles away. She also gave us a tour of the village and was able to answer many of our questions. We bought very few things because everything was extremely expensive. We carried with difficulties in sweating heat two French baguettes and some cold drinks.
Back on the boat we changed into our swimming and snorkelling gear and went for a snorkel on the reef only 100 yards from Gipsy Moth. In a knee high water we were able to watch at least a dozen types of different fish. Kim put a snorkel and mask on for the first time, apprehensive at first but then enjoyed it enormously and Emmanuel let go of his fear of water and went for it. He is truly taken by the magical underwater world so that he has easily forgot his fears of water.
Back on board we set the boat ready and Loana came back to guide us through the maze of shallow waters and strong currents in the pass. We though that her generosity, hospitality and friendship could not be surpassed only for her to turn up with cooked lunch. We were truly moved and also embarrassed that we had nothing of similar significance to give her in return. However we spent some time explaining Gipsy Moth’s original journey and she showed a great interest in every photograph from the Chichester’s book. We gave her one of our music CDs and we have our best intentions to send her at least a postcard or a gift when we get back home. Not only had she enough time to cook a lunch for us but she also wrote a very nice leaving letter for us. She made our stay at Manihi memorable and people like her make journeys like our become special in terms of what they give us and what they teach us about life.
Manihi pass at slack water with its shallows, narrows and currents plus a rip tide looked quite worrying for all crew. There were whirlpools of water for at least 50 yards across and ahead of us with unknown shallows that we had to find a way through. Antonia did a fantastic job of taking Gipsy Moth through this. Our passage was a true team effort. Brucey and I were positioned on the pulpit to judge the depth of water in front of us and to look for anything that looked like a coral head. As the sea bed was all coral and the incoming current strong with a rip tide on it, our task was quite nerve wrecking. Charlie was at the chart table giving Antonia GPS depth readings and she had a separate depth meter in the cockpit. We edged ahead at a snail’s pace and Gipsy was not easy to control in those conditions. Those were probably the most nerve wrecking moments for all of us as looking from the pushpit and at dept sounder we could see no way through. Antonia used caution and proceeded slowly and we went through.
Never before did the deep blue waters of the ocean looked so welcoming and the magical trappings of paradise left behind so menacing. We were so glad that we got safely out of the paradise and soon could savour freedoms of wide horizon around us.
Our afternoon was one that you would be envious about. Our lunch was delicious and once cleared away we draped Gipsy Moth in her sails and she easily pulled us along in 8-10 knots of breeze doing 4-4.5 knots at the time. Being at her helm was a real pleasure and joy and we could experience what a cruising life really is about. We spent the most relaxing and mellow late afternoon in her cockpit and on the aft deck, some of us even typing on the computer!
Soon the dark came and night watches started. We have 90 miles to go to Rangiroa atoll.
Linda Crew-Gee (Yachting Monthly)
BLACK PEARLS
Position: 14 57S 147 15 W ( not far from yesterday)
Black Pearls from our Diesel Tanks
Linda Crew-Gee (Yachting Monthly) - We did not mention that Manihi, the atoll we left yesterday is famous for its rare black pearls.
As I started my watch at 11pm last night we decided to put an engine on because there was not enough wind to get us to Rangiroa atoll by mid day – at slack tide and currents. The entrance to this atoll is famous for its strong currents and rip tides and only at certain time it is possible to enter the lagoon. With engine on and 10 knots of wind we were speeding along at 6 knots. The night was slightly misty so the stars were not that clear and there was no moon. Emanuel and I entertained ourselves by watching fluorescent wave crests that every now and then created large patches of show lights on the sea surface.
WE MADE IT IN TRUE STYLE
26 April 2006
Position: Rangiroa Atoll, Tuamotus, South Pacific
We Made It In True Style
The whole of last night we drifted along with no wind and in 12 hours we made a total of 20 miles. The morals were low this morning because we had expected strong winds.
With Antonia on the helm and clear instructions on who will be doing what and when and what we could expect to see – how the winds and boat will behave in those conditions we were on our way.
Gipsy Moth entered Rangiroa through Tiputta Pass under sail and without engine (however we tested that it worked beforehand). Rip tide was strong but only at some points and those could be easily avoided. We sailed in steadily and slowly, well under control. As we entered the lagoon we noticed two black clouds that were approaching us. We made it to the anchorage and just as the crew started putting the sails away the first squall arrived in vigour. It was beautiful to see the lagoon change the water colour from pale lemon green to dark green and blue. …..
We got soaking wet and this was also a good opportunity to have a shower on deck. We were so happy to be here and that we made it.
Antonia Nicholson, Skipper.
Yesterday had to be one of the most frustrating days. When I came on watch we were on target for Rangiroa, so my workings out were going to plan. Because these lagoons are quite big with a very small entrance (pass) the amount of water that has to go in or out is enormous and this creates a strong current. In some of the atolls, currents of 5-9 knots are reported. So arriving at Rangiroa on time is similar to arriving at the Needles channel at the right time, you don’t want to arrive when it suits you.
I made the decision to alter course to Tahiti because the wind was expected early evening, this would suit us fine and give me time to prepare the crew and yacht. I could also then see how far we had gone by 5am and if we could make it back to Rangiroa by 1300hrs, then we could turn back.
After a long tiring and frustrating day, I climbed into my bunk which promptly fell of it’s bracket but I was too tired to care. At 5 am and a very very quiet night we were still only 20 miles from Rangiroa’s entrance. We altered course for Rangiroa because the expected winds had not arrived, the barometer had not changed either. I did not fancy drifting towards Tahiti. Half an hour later as the sun rose, I could see the clouds building and the wind was coming towards us. We were going at three knots and had 21 miles to go so that would make our arrival at the pass perfect for slack water.
We had a great sail and even put a reef in the main. The rest was simple, the wind was a steady 15 knots and I was happy with the crew to sail through the pass, with the engine as a back up. Gipsy Moth sailed through perfectly avoiding the rip falls, she must have known she was going to take us to a new place and that we would be able to give her the attention that she likes.
THE CREW'S VIEW OF AN ATOLL IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC
Rangiroa Atoll, Tuamotus
Position: At anchor, 14 95 S 147 38 W
Very hot and sunny, little wind.
We apologise for no daily log last night; tonight the three crew, all 16 years old have written about their experience in Manihi. We are thoroughly enjoying our time here in Rangiroa, we have been snorkelling over a fantastic coral cay, better than in Manihi , watched baby black tip reef sharks feed (from a restaurant terrace) and today visited a black pearl farm. Kim, Charlie and Emmanuel have been rowing and visited a Canadian school ship, which they really loved and now want to join! so sorry parents. Kim has found a beach hut that she wants, more like a tropical hut on stilts. Tomorrow we will go for another snorkel to what is known as the ‘aquarium’ and try to remove the rest of the algae and barnacles from Gipsy’s hull before departing on the slack tide to Tahiti after lunch.
By Antonia Nicholson, Skipper
Kim, 16 from Manchester, selected by The Brightside Trust
I think Manihi was the best, it was so beautiful, the beach was so nice it had white sand, clear blue waters rushing up to my feet. Palm trees in the background, the sound of water, birds and the sound of tall palm trees with coconuts on them. Most I enjoyed was snorkelling. I saw so many nice fish, there were so many colours. I was most scared about any sharks near me, but as soon as I saw the fish it took my mind off it. We met some people on another boat, they were very nice to us. We also met a woman from Manihi called Loana. She took Linda to her house to get us some water, and when they came back she bought back some chicken, iced water, coconuts and three tanks of water. She was so nice to us, and we also met some of her family. She offered o show us around the town and then helped us out of the lagoon. It couldn’t have been any better, we met such nice people and saw a wonderful place.
Emmanuel, 16 from Manchester, selected by The Brightside Trust
After only a few minutes in the atoll of Manihi, I was able to come to the conclusion that it was the most beautiful place I had ever been to. It had lovely clear waters and pearl farms everywhere. The island is well known for its beautiful black pearls. Once we had anchored I was able to fully take in and truly marvel at the site. Amazing!! We had lunch on the beach and apart from the mosquitoes it was good stuff. Also that day I did something I could never imagine myself doing. I went snorkelling. It was the best thing ever. All the fish and their colours. I was very excited after my mini adventure. I was able to watch and listen to the waves crashing into the shallow waters of the atoll. Good Stuff!!!!!!!
Charlie, 16 from The Isle of Wight, County Press Competition Winner
My time in Manihi was excellent. I have never had so much fun. I did things I have never dreamt of. I went snorkelling and saw fish with colours like you would not believe. The beaches were just, I cannot describe it but I will try. The trees were swaying in the warm breeze of the pacific, the water refracting the warm glow off the 12 o clock sun and the sheer beauty of the coral reefs and the wildlife that thrives off it. We met some people on their travels to Tahiti, they were really cool. On our final night we had a bbq, which myself and Emmanuel were in charge of. We ate chicken and had a salad on the aft deck of Gipsy by candlelight. The next morning as we were cleaning the hull, I saw a Remora, which looked exactly like a shark but they attach themselves to other fish and eat their left overs, algae and plankton. |
