40th Anniversary of Gipsy Moth IV
Gipsy Moth IV

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LEG 17 - CAIRNS TO DARWIN | 28/08/06 - 22/09/06
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The daily video footage for this leg will appear in this section when the leg begins.
GOODBYE FROM THE CREW OF LEG 17

Voyage Log
Date: Sunday 24th September, 17:30
Position: Cullen Bay Marina, Darwin

Richard Benady, Crew Member

Sadly our days on board Gipsy Moth IV are coming to an end. Just two days left and I’ll be back with family and friends. Being on board this amazing yacht has really set my mind straight; I think it’s helped me decide what I want to do with my life.

So I’ve been told to write about my experiences and what I think about GMIV. Now I’m not very good with putting my thoughts and emotions into words, but I’ll try my best, so don’t laugh. Well… what can I say; it’s been an amazing experience the whole way through, good times and bad. Like the skipper says, ‘’it’s a love hate relationship’’. You hate GMIV, but you love her too. But as I sit here and look back on our voyage, even when I hated her, I really did love her, so… as whole… I really, really enjoyed it, as I’m sure we all have. Being able to have sailed GMIV does mean a lot to me, but I’m sure that in years to come, when I’m old and grey, I’ll realize how great it actually was.

I’d like to wish the next crew, and all the other crews to come a safe passage. You never know, I could be writing the log in years to come as “skipper”. Now wouldn’t that surprise you all.

So for the last time…This Is Richard Benady on Gipsy Moth, out.


Becky Holdstock, Crew Member

As I woke up to my last full day aboard the Gipsy Moth 4. thinking about my three weeks on board, I realised the sheer bravery and readiness needed by each member of the crew. Sailing for long periods of time, across oceans brings a completely different meaning of life. Your life is no longer your own; you’re now part of a closely networked team, if you fall everyone will fall with you, you now have the responsibility of everyone onboard! Personalities change, I myself have a different outlook on life, I’ve learnt to live well with people very different from myself, with different lifestyles, beliefs and attitudes. I have been inspired by everyone, and will take a small part of their tuition with me into everyday life. I’ve never been so laid back for so long!

Looking back when I wrote my application letter, I was solely eager to sail greater distances and gaining experience on the Gipsy Moth 4. Instead, I came to appreciate culture and a constant expedition of the Northern Australian coast. I’ve experienced snorkelling on the Great Barrier Reef, dolphins on the bow nearly every day, I’ve eaten crocodile, we’ve caught one tuna and two Spanish mackerel one of which I gutted (savage points awarded). Me and Katie found ourselves with a small job at a golf course in Darwin; we’ve explored and learnt about interesting history in places remote, and sometimes only on a small desert island. I found a coconut and got into it; I was sea sick for three days but got through that.

I have realised how hard ocean passages are, for mentally you have to push yourself, and be extremely self disciplined; you can’t afford to cut corners, and that’s in every aspect; from cooking and cleaning to completing your night watch. You have to have a capability to keep going, through sea sickness, tiredness and bad weather. Physically, you have to be prepared, and you have to be prepared to push your physical capabilities to the limit. It’s a hard life on a boat, and there are little comforts onboard. I have however learnt to appreciate the little ‘extras’, like pop corn (we had some sailing across the Arafura Sea), fresh fruit, and the absence of the lingering of rotten salad. Physically life is going to be really easy when I go back home. Mentally, I feel like I am in my element here, I feel like I’m home, despite the hard times. Life at home is never going to be the same again. time creates a challenge, and the feeling of achievement. This is a different way of life, and it’s something I don’t want to leave. Its been really hard sometimes on this trip; but probably because of that and because I’ve achieved so much; I feel like I’m leaving a little bit of my heart behind

What a fantastic opportunity. I have the excitement of life and change in front of me. Life is now a lot bigger than it was before. My ultimate principle now, is to provide opportunities for young people like myself, whether it’s through sailing or other means. An opportunity is a fantastic gift in life which should be open to all. Many thanks to everyone who made my dream come true, but what can I say - thank you seems so diminutive in comparison with my journey exploring the sailing, and my own mind aboard the Gipsy Moth 4, and my new ideal of life ahead.

Quotes that I believe in:

‘I would feel an intense depression every time I achieved a great ambition; I had not then discovered that the joy of living comes from action, from making the attempt, from the effort, not from success.’

Sir Francis Chichester

‘When the sea gets into your blood, your never going to get it out again, and your life will then be committed to the sea.

Sir Peter Blake
Fair Wind and Good Sea. Until next time! Becky XXX


Katie Brewins, Crew Member:

Well….what can I say? I have had a magical time. Every day has been different; I felt different, thought different, ate different and even smelt different!!!! I saw and learnt many different things, not just about animals and sailing as well as Australia but about things within everyday normal life that I primarily took for granted, which I will almost definitely be a lot more grateful for especially my family.

I have had many highs and lows. The highs have been indescribable, exciting and unforgettable and the lows have been challenging and hard. But without a doubt the lows are almost definitely worth the highs. A few of my highs on the GMIV have been snorkelling, seeing dolphins, turtles, finding nemo, visiting beautiful islands, experiencing a whole different lifestyle and making fantastic new friends.

I am highly grateful for my time on the GMIV and I am extremely lucky to have had the opportunity to become a crew member on the GMIV and sail up the Great Barrier Reef. I’m sure this story will be passed down for generations in my family as coming aboard the GMIV has made me and my family extremely proud and is a truly unforgettable life changing experience.

I wish all the following crew members, 1st mates and skipper’s the best of luck and I guarantee them an awesome time. All the best,

Miss Katie May Brewins

Xxxmwahxxx


Bob Bradfield, 1st Mate:

I became involved with Gipsy Moth through my late friend, Stephen Thomas, who made the first sizeable donation to get the project under way. Stephen died in a tragic accident in the Antarctic and, with help from Peter Seymour of Blue Water Rallies, I raised the funds for the Stephen Thomas Bursary, in his memory. I also spent a month in Auckland helping with the repair and so it has been particularly rewarding to see the ‘sharp end’ of the project – the youngsters undergoing their life changing experiences….or was it we oldies who were to have our lives permanently changed…?

Almost four weeks on a cramped, poorly ventilated boat in a humid and excessively hot tropical climate has been challenging all round. On top of the living conditions the famous ‘Gipsy Moth roll’ added to discomfort as we ‘enjoyed’ many days of downwind sailing. So how did the four weeks with Killer Rouse (the fish of the Coral and Arafura Seas travel in fear), Aussie Bray and youngsters Kate, Bex and Rich measure up against objectives and expectations? Well there’s no doubt all the ingredients for success were there! Some great sailing, swimming,, snorkeling, fishing, barbecues and lots of laughs encouraged not a little by the skipper’s wicked sense of humour. All this and more on the positive side but all fully balanced for the youngsters by the challenges of sea sickness, difficult living conditions and unfamiliarity with much of what was going on. If anyone thought they were coming on holiday they were mistaken but if increased self reliance, a tolerance of others and ability to work with them, along with a broadening of horizons were among the objectives then some good progress has been made. Only time will tell whether leg 17 has been life changing for the youngsters (or oldies!) but I am fully satisfied that the effort and expense of making the project happen has been well worthwhile. Stephen, having been a high achieving perfectionist, would have despaired at times – no, most of the time – but ultimately I am sure would have agreed that he was right to back the project and would be pleased to have his name associated with it.

From a personal perspective my lasting memories will be of some outstanding sailing, some stunning sunsets, some great laughs, some new friendships but above all coping with the challenges, both sailing and people related, that are inevitably thrown up by a venture of this kind. I wish future crews as rewarding an experience as I have enjoyed.

Bob Bradfield, 1st Mate


A last word from the Skipper of Leg 17

Well top that! I think the crew have said it all, leg 17 has been a mixed experience for many, day sailing, nights at anchor and then the energy sapping non stop sailing across the top end of Australia to Darwin.

I would like to thank Bob Bradfield the Mate for his support and his hard work on board, he never tired and was always there for me. Andrew Bray for looking after the crew and his local knowledge it proved very valuable I hope we sail together again. Then there is the crew a mixed bunch of individuals who became a team, well done to you all. This is my fourth leg on Gipsy Moth IV and every time I leave her it’s with mixed feelings, hope to see you again old girl sail straight and keep the wind aft of the beam.

Steve Rouse
Skipper Gipsy Moth IV Leg 17 Cairns – Darwin Australia



CULLEN BAY MARINA

Voyage Log
Date: Friday 22 nd Sept 2006
Position: “Buzz Café” Cullen Bay Marina Australia, talk to the crew and skipper of this Classic Yacht in Cullen Bay Marina, Darwin, Next 3 days Australia.

We are here courtesy of Cullen Bay marina and Of JB and Tamara and the friendship of the of the people of Darwin. We thank you, “ I hope you all come down to the Buzz Café at Cullen Bay Marina to view The Gipsy Moth IV - we will be on display over the weekend and welcome all donations to this great sailing charity. Come and see this icon of British maritime heritage and enjoy a beer at the Buzz Café in Cullen Bay Marina and talk to the skipper and crew of this famous yacht.

Today I was interviewed by the Northern Territories News and had a great time. My chance to inform the people of the Northern Territories of this great maritime icon visiting their shores for the first and last time, a chance to view a classic yacht that has made history with a master of the seas. The old man would have been proud. The crew were up and ready for our first open day in Darwin, the boat was looking beautiful and JB helped to accommodate her in the marina and provide us with a berth to display her without restriction. We would like to thank the people of Darwin and in particular Cullen Bay Marina and the Buzz Café for giving the Gipsy Moth IV a great welcome and arranging a berth for public viewing of this classic yacht over the next few days.

Sometimes when I am skippering this yacht I think I am at the mercy of the Gods, the Greek Gods, and when ever you turn or think that all is right, sitting on their clouds high above they decide that some other bad thing must befall the occupants of the Gipsy Moth, playing with us like toys in a big game, but the crew of Gipsy Moth always pull through, the sprit that’s always good. This mix of magical people that get put together by the people on high always seems to defeat the problems that the Gods seem to set us, this is synonymous with this project and is why more people should dig deep to support a home grown charity that benefits young people from all walks of life and countries, a skipper of four legs I know that this great vision will have immense benefit for lots of young people and without your help we will fall short of our major objective - we need your help now!!!! So people of Darwin come and see us now! People of the world that may be looking at this website please donate something to the Gipsy Moth Fund and help keep the dream alive!!!! Keep the dream of Sir Francis Chichester rolling and enable her to return to England with pride!!!! Visit our web site www.gipsymoth.org .

The crew have been busy getting this yacht ready for viewing and also getting ready to fit a new Simrad radar for the next few legs of the Blue Water Rally. I would like to thank Peter Seymour and his team for their continuing support. The Blue Water Rally have been a great support over the past few months and it was nice to see a familiar face when going through the lock the other day - Hi Richard! It’s nice to see you back in the fold

We have met fellow blue water cuisers from “ Festina Lente”, Annka”, Bamsen” , “Annuk” and “White Wings” to name but a few . This family is a way of life now let’s hope the dream goes on and the gods are pleased with what we do.

A personal note to my wife, every day we are apart my heart bleeds a little. I look forward to the day we are reunited otherwise I may die a broken man. Thank you for letting me do this, a man on a mission!!

Fair winds and calm seas, my friends.

Nice one from Darwin

Steve Rouse

Skipper Gipsy Moth IV


GIPSY MOTH ARRIVES IN DARWIN

Voyage Log
Date: Thursday 19 - 21 September 12.05hrs
Position: “Buzz Café” Cullen Bay Marina, Darwin, Australia.

Well here we go again! I know what you are all saying, where have you been Steve? Conserving my creative energy and running around Darwin getting Gipsy Moth’s reception organised and all the berthing and technical support arranged to keep Gipsy Moth at the top of the world’s agenda. Andrew Bray the crew chief has departed all the way home to Sydney, thanks for your candour and support and hope you had a good flight home, Andy. Look out for his article in Yachting Monthly soon, and talking of Yachting Monthly, time to say thanks to my mate Dick Durham the features editor for the timely email, I am one step ahead Dick.

The 19th started in the dark and dusky Dundas Strait. We arrived off Cape Don at midnight. The smell of wood fires drifting gently over a flat mirror like sea with just a glint of light from the fading moon that has shown us the way for the past week was all that could be seen. It was quite spooky and an eyrie silence descended over the boat only broken by the sound of the engine effortlessly driving Gipsy Moth forever on to Darwin. This is crocodile country and drowning if you fall overboard is the last of your worries, so the crew never ventured out of the cockpit during this part of the passage. The night passed without incident, the hours of planning and tidal stream calculations paid off and we carried a fair tide all the way through the Clarence Strait and Howard Channel and on into Darwin and our arrival anchorage in Fannie Bay. It was 17.00hrs Darwin time when we finally dropped anchor off the Darwin Sailing Club in Fannie Bay - we had arrived. After a meal ashore in the sailing club we settled down to a night at anchor and for what ever awaited us in the morning.

After a foray ashore on the 20th Bob Bradfield 36 the mate and I arrived at Cullen Bay Marina to arrange a berth for the boat. We struck lucky the marina office was closed and right next door is the Buzz Café it was also closed but Bob and his silver tongue managed to get us both a coffee whilst we waited for the Marina office to open. It was then that we started talking to Tamara Cox. I just happened to have a few brochures which I produced and doors started to open. We were introduced to John Bonnin who immediately started to make phone calls on our behalf, a choice of berths was discussed and engineers organised, even television stations and news papers informed. I have given one TV interview to Channel 9 and had one interview with Emma Gumbleton from the Northern Territory news. After 2 hours of organising and telephone calls, Gipsy Moth IV was moving to the waiting pontoon in Cullen Bay Marina for the Mussel man to inspect and get clearance to enter. What seemed at one stage to be the impossible was overcome by the will do, can do attitude which is all too evident in Australia. Our thanks go to Tamara Cox and John Bonnin of the Buzz Café for all their help and assistance.

The following day we were up at 07.00hrs moving the boat from the waiting pontoon round to the lock with “Annka” another Blue Water Rally yacht and then on into Cullen Bay Marina and berth B9. The crew are now busy getting the boat ready for the open days to follow our now well publicised arrival into Darwin. I am getting used to giving newspaper and television interviews, might be the start of a new career? Becky, Katie and Richard are all busy cleaning polishing and repacking the boat so that they can proudly show Gipsy Moth IV to the general public of the Northern Territories and Darwin. During all this frantic activity the crew are still enjoying the normal things like laundry, repacking clothes and the excitement of a real shower in the marina. Talking to John we found out that there has not been a cloud over Darwin since March so this relentless heat makes hard work of even the simplest tasks, and the work routine has to be carefully monitored to ensure that none of the crew are overexposed to the sun and water intake is kept up so that no one dehydrates.

The crew have had a fantastic time on Gipsy Moth and now minds are turning to loved ones at home and the thought of home comforts and the prospect of telling close friends of the ones that did not get away.

A great few days of hectic action but now we are on top of the administration and the boat is looking good for the next skipper and crew. Bring on the open days.


Steve Rouse

Skipper
Gipsy Moth IV


CULLEN BAY MARINA

Voyage Log
Date: Thursday 19 - 21 September 12.05hrs
Position: “Buzz Café” Cullen Bay Marina, Darwin, Australia.

Well here we go again! I know what you are all saying, where have you been Steve? Conserving my creative energy and running around Darwin getting Gipsy Moth’s reception organised and all the berthing and technical support arranged to keep Gipsy Moth at the top of the world’s agenda. Andrew Bray the crew chief has departed all the way home to Sydney, thanks for your candour and support and hope you had a good flight home, Andy. Look out for his article in Yachting Monthly soon, and talking of Yachting Monthly, time to say thanks to my mate Dick Durham the features editor for the timely email, I am one step ahead Dick.

The 19th started in the dark and dusky Dundas Strait. We arrived off Cape Don at midnight. The smell of wood fires drifting gently over a flat mirror like sea with just a glint of light from the fading moon that has shown us the way for the past week was all that could be seen. It was quite spooky and an eyrie silence descended over the boat only broken by the sound of the engine effortlessly driving Gipsy Moth forever on to Darwin. This is crocodile country and drowning if you fall overboard is the last of your worries, so the crew never ventured out of the cockpit during this part of the passage. The night passed without incident, the hours of planning and tidal stream calculations paid off and we carried a fair tide all the way through the Clarence Strait and Howard Channel and on into Darwin and our arrival anchorage in Fannie Bay. It was 17.00hrs Darwin time when we finally dropped anchor off the Darwin Sailing Club in Fannie Bay - we had arrived. After a meal ashore in the sailing club we settled down to a night at anchor and for what ever awaited us in the morning.

After a foray ashore on the 20th Bob Bradfield 36 the mate and I arrived at Cullen Bay Marina to arrange a berth for the boat. We struck lucky the marina office was closed and right next door is the Buzz Café it was also closed but Bob and his silver tongue managed to get us both a coffee whilst we waited for the Marina office to open. It was then that we started talking to Tamara Cox. I just happened to have a few brochures which I produced and doors started to open. We were introduced to John Bonnin who immediately started to make phone calls on our behalf, a choice of berths was discussed and engineers organised, even television stations and news papers informed. I have given one TV interview to Channel 9 and had one interview with Emma Gumbleton from the Northern Territory news. After 2 hours of organising and telephone calls, Gipsy Moth IV was moving to the waiting pontoon in Cullen Bay Marina for the Mussel man to inspect and get clearance to enter. What seemed at one stage to be the impossible was overcome by the will do, can do attitude which is all too evident in Australia. Our thanks go to Tamara Cox and John Bonnin of the Buzz Café for all their help and assistance.

The following day we were up at 07.00hrs moving the boat from the waiting pontoon round to the lock with “Annka” another Blue Water Rally yacht and then on into Cullen Bay Marina and berth B9. The crew are now busy getting the boat ready for the open days to follow our now well publicised arrival into Darwin. I am getting used to giving newspaper and television interviews, might be the start of a new career? Becky, Katie and Richard are all busy cleaning polishing and repacking the boat so that they can proudly show Gipsy Moth IV to the general public of the Northern Territories and Darwin. During all this frantic activity the crew are still enjoying the normal things like laundry, repacking clothes and the excitement of a real shower in the marina. Talking to John we found out that there has not been a cloud over Darwin since March so this relentless heat makes hard work of even the simplest tasks, and the work routine has to be carefully monitored to ensure that none of the crew are overexposed to the sun and water intake is kept up so that no one dehydrates.

The crew have had a fantastic time on Gipsy Moth and now minds are turning to loved ones at home and the thought of home comforts and the prospect of telling close friends of the ones that did not get away.

A great few days of hectic action but now we are on top of the administration and the boat is looking good for the next skipper and crew. Bring on the open days.


Steve Rouse

Skipper
Gipsy Moth IV


ANDREW'S PAGE

Voyage Log
Date: Sunday 17th September 1830hrs
Position: 10 47S 134 38E Arafura Sea, Top of Australia.

G’day. I’m Andrew “Aussie” Bray, the designated “Crew Leader” on leg 17. The way things are going we may get in to Darwin sometime Tuesday, and so with just a couple of days to run the skipper invited me to write today’s log.
Skipper mislaid his copy of the Articles of War, so instead of Sunday parading caps in hand on the maindeck we ignored the usual water restrictions and filled all four of the boats 15 litre solar showers from the water-maker. Not that anyone wanted hot water, but when hung on the main mast their sprayed outputs are a far more satisfying way to wash than using a sponge and bucket. Once the boat chores were done (garbage sorting and compaction, clean galley and heads, sweep floor), and Katie has collected a few million stray hairs from yesterdays de-braiding, we all indulged in the water orgy, and felt suitably refreshed.
For breakfast I contributed a round of pancakes, but due to the signs forbidding the opening of hatches at sea several aborted their flipping manoeuvres and became temporarily attached to the deckhead.
The main event was landing of another Spanish mackerel – the biggest yet. The whole operation (except for Richard’s skilful gaffing), from letting out the line, pumping and reeling in the fish, administering its last rights, and even the gutting , steaking and filleting was done by Becky. This earned her 50 points towards what is apparently a new life’s ambition – to get her “SavageMaster” ticket. Becky also assisted the skipper convert some of this beautiful fish into a dish I’d not heard of before, called goujons. There are a few eggs, oranges, onions, cabbages and butternut pumpkins remaining of our fresh stuff, but the fish, served with yet more couscous was very welcome.
On the negative side I must mention how oppressive the tropical weather continues to be – especially on a boat with very poor ventilation, and no bimini. Again several crew felt unwell. Best time of the day is sunset, which because we are still on Cairns time, was around 7pm, despite the Equinox being just a few days away. No green flash seen today, but a beauty none the less, with smoke from bush fires blown by the Trades from Arnhem Land, adding a deep red cast.
As the lone foreigner on this UK flagged yacht it’s been a pleasure getting to know my young shipmates - Richard from Gibraltar, Becky from the Isle of Wight, and Katie from Scarborough – and to learn what plans and dreams they harbour as they enter into independent lives. Katie’s Yorkshire accent will remind me of braids forever. It’s also been a pleasure as a watch-leader to talk our common seafaring language and share experiences and navigation with Steve and Bob. A sea voyage on a small boat with complete strangers could easily become a trial, but this one has been anything but, and I thank Paul Gelder at Yachting Monthly magazine for sending this assignment my way.

Andrew Bray
Crew Leader


THE BRAIDS OF LIFE...

Voyage Log
Date: Saturday 16th September 22.30hrs
Position: Arafura Sea 10 40 S 135 22 E, Top of Australia.

A day in the life of an ocean sailor, began very much like any other on board Gipsy Moth IV, sailing west it suddenly struck me that after turning the corner at Cape York Gipsy Moth is really now on her way home. The crew move about the boat like old sweats from years gone by, the daily routine of changing watches cooking cleaning up the boat and polishing the brass-work is somewhat done automatically - with a little encouragement from Bob Bradfield the mate 39 from Saffron Walden. Our other adult crew member, crew chief Andrew Bray 41 from Avalon Beach in Sydney very much a local boy in Australian terms understands the damage the sun can do to the human body and covers up relentlessly, but yesterday Dr Livingstone as he is known affectionately was seen to show a knee below his mid length shorts much to the astonishment of all present. (Comment : no photographs available yet!)

The afternoon was taken up with Katie’s hairdressing salon with Becky from the Isle of Wight and the ever attentive Richard from Gibraltar helping Katie to remove her locks “hair extensions” and get ready for the boat’s arrival in Darwin.
So a quick one for my daughter Kayley, there are no hair straighteners that blow the 240 volt supply so Katie turned up with some rather good looking hair extensions, which may have proved a problem with all the snorkelling on the Barrier Reef.

Great thing today is that Becky has turned the corner on the rolling motion of the boat and is back to her old chirpy self again welcome back! The boat is once again filled with the sound of anticipation as Darwin gets nearer and the possibility of landfall gets closer. I think the crew are feeling the difference between day sailing on the reef and non stop offshore sailing out of sight of land, and are now looking forwards to Cullen Bay Marina. Becky has expressed her wish to keep sailing on Gipsy Moth and to get to Cullen Bay Marina. Gipsy Moth has that effect on people, it’s very much a love hate relationship, most of us want both.

The day goes on and the crew settled down to a ploughman’s supper, Bob went off rummaging through Gipsy Moths bilges, veggie nets and cupboards to rustle up a concoction that resembled a good pub lunch that was very much enjoyed by the crew.

So now the curtain closes on yet another day in the life of a living legend, the skipper and crew may change but the legend sails on!

PS: The killer lure is in the water - update tomorrow on the fishing!

Steve Rouse
Skipper GMIV

PS Sorry about the lack of videos. We have lots of good material and will post it to the website as soon as some technical issues have been resolved.


TODAY ITS THE BOOBY PRIZE...!

Voyage Log
Date: Friday 15th September 19.30hrs
Position: Gulf of Carpentaria 10 16.5 S 139 21.5 E’ Top of Australia.

It started with a magical sun rise, our trek across the top of Australia towards the final destination of leg 17, Darwin. With the watch system well underway little could be seen of the crew who were off watch. Richard and myself were on watch and after my mandatory 3 cups of tea to start the day I knew the perfect answer to get the crew up and about, wholemeal pita bread and bacon. This had a limited effect but at least a few new faces were seen. There is something about the smell of bacon cooking that gets most seafarers out of their bunks and there is no exception on GMIV. The day passed just like any other on this trip across the top end of Australia - watches going on, watches going off, a few words of handover and then 3 hours of trying to stay alert, keeping Gipsy Moth heading straight and avoiding the shipping, ducking in out of the odd shower during the night watch, tweaking the wind vane steering.

The boat has been a little quiet the last day or so as some of the crew succumb to the effects of the rolling motion of the boat as she speeds off down wind and lurches from one side to the other dipping the occasional guard rail and then rearing up like a stallion and charging off down the face of the next wave. This relentless motion with no end in sight means a silent boat now for most of the time. Credit is due though as nobody yet has truly let it beat them and all turn out for their watches on time.

Last night the decks of Gipsy Moth became a temporary aircraft carrier as we were treated to some spectacular aerobatics from 2 “Booby” birds and a “Sooty tern” trying to find a landing place for the night. After several attempts to land in the rigging and overshooting the mark, one Booby bird made a successful landing in the mizzen next to the Fleet 55 communications dome and the other after a long time flying round came into land on the foredeck with the Sooty tern. All the crew were well entertained by this aerial display and our feathered friends had finally made their departure by mid morning

Another great day in the life of a blue water sailor

Steve Rouse

Skipper GMIV


OCEAN PASSAGE AHEAD...

Voyage Log
Date: Thursday 14th September 23.59hrs
Position: 10 32.6S 141 14.5 E Gulf of Carpentaria Top of Australia.

The days sailing started at 11.00hrs, a little late you may think, but hey the tidal streams in this part of the world can catch out the unwary as they pass through the Torres Strait, a place strewn with coral reefs, rocks and islands. Indeed masters of sailing vessels in the past had warnings that a sailing vessel could become unmanageable should she lose the wind in the strong tidal streams, so that is why we planned our late departure to make best use of the tides through the straits.

All that planning did not go unrewarded for we had a wonderful sail up the Adolphus Channel to the entrance to the strait and caught the fair tidal streams through. We were at one stage 1 hour behind schedule and when we eventually entered the Gulf of Carpentaria we were 1 hour ahead of schedule, the sea calmed and Gipsy Moth ran off down wind under reefed main and no1 jib in 20 knots of wind. The girls spotted their now daily pod of dolphins which made their day and the draw was made for the watch system to see who partnered who for the next 4-5 days. That done the boat settled down to some real ocean sailing.

You can not help but sit in awe of those great seafarers who have gone before, people like Captain Cook and Bligh. Indeed references to both, such as “Cook Passage”, are all around the coast. Possession Island in the Torres Strait has a monument towards the north west tip to Captain Cook who stopped there to take possession of the east coast of New South Wales from 38 degrees latitude to “this place”. From here Endeavour passed through the strait now bearing her name to make passage to Batavia for repairs. The whole coast is steeped in maritime history and I guess that’s one reason why Gipsy Moth fits in so well; we in our own special way are making history too.

The wind vane steering that has been with the boat from the start and only occasionally used, has seen Bob the mate 46 from Saffron Walden and Andrew Bray from Avalon Beach Sydney getting it ready to steer the boat for the next few days allowing the crew to concentrate on keeping a better lookout for sheeeps. It’s working just fine keeping Gipsy Moth heading west to our next destination, Darwin, the jewel in the crown of Australia’s Northern territory. We are all looking forwards to our arrival in this great city. I know that the crew are looking forwards to catching up with family and friends; being away from modern society and all the comforts of home living is a trial of the mind and soul.

But for now all is fine with the world, Gipsy Moth is sailing west into another sunset.


Steve Rouse

Skipper GMIV


TO THE TOP!

Voyage Log
Date: Wednesday 13th September, 17:30
Position: Adolphus Bay, 10’38.6 S 142’38.7 E

Wow! What a day! Everyone, apart from me, was up at 2 o’clock and slipped the anchor at 3 o’clock. From what I hear everything was fine and we sailed well. I woke up about 7 o’clock and got a wash and some breakfast and then came up on deck. I was sat for at the most ten minutes before I got my morning wake up call…..a big wave over the side and directly on top of me! Oh you have got to love it.

Rich, the skipper and myself sat and talked in the cockpit for a little while with the skipper cracking of a few of his many jokes which always brighten up my day and make everyone laugh. Becky went back to bed as she had been up since 2 o’clock hard at work as usual. Then Andrew went for a lay down also, and as everything was running smoothly on deck I went and laid downstairs for a little while.

At about 10 o’clock I came back up stairs and that is pretty much where all the action started. I steered on the helm for a while and Becky found her flying fish on deck that she has been longing to see all holiday. So I was happy that she had seen one because it really made her day. Then we got a group of 4 dolphins swimming at the bow of the boat for about 10-15 minutes coming at arms length. I have always wanted to see dolphins so this experience for me was truly amazing and really made my day. Next…Rich caught a massive tuna and Rich loves fishing and catching fish so this really made his day. So within an hour we all ended up with a massive smile on our faces!!!

Lunch time came and I volunteered to go and help the 1st mate with lunch as he always does lunch and washes up so I wanted to help him. About 5 minutes after going downstairs I took a turn for the worse. I was seriously dehydrated and felt really ill so I went to bed for a few hours to recover. Becky came in a couple of hours later to see if I was ok and I explained to her what was wrong with me and good old Beck’s being the caring girl she is came to my rescue and made sure I was ok.

It’s really nice how much everyone on the boat is so caring and understanding and will go out of their way to contribute to things happening on the boat and us having an amazing experience. Especially the skipper, he has been so considerate and really understanding. I have been lucky with this as I have found it extremely hard both mentally and physically to adapt to the conditions that we are living in. It is extremely different to what I’m used to. I have even helped cook a few meals and learnt how to cook, my family would be shocked if they could see me.

We anchored at the most northern point in Australia – Adolphus Island at about 16.20 after a lovely day’s sailing. The swell was lovely and the wind not too strong but strong enough to help Gipsy Moth IV along her way nicely for her last day’s sailing before the 4-6 day non stop stretch across the Torres Straight to Darwin.

Just to top off the day the skipper even let me play a full half an hour of my music! What he calls boom boom and what I call hardcore. Beck’s and the Skipper then got to work cooking a nice dinner as always with tuna and steak on the menu. So an all round excellent day and as the skipper would say……Just anuver s**t day at ze office!!

Written by,
Katie May Brewins

Voyage Log
Date: Wednesday 13th September 23.30hrs
Position: Blackwood Bay Adolphus Island, 10 38.6S 142 38.7 E’ Cape York Australia.

The magic hour arrived 02.30 hrs and the after-guard were up and moving, soon after to the sound of the kettle going on Becky from the Isle of Wight and Richard from Gibraltar arrived on deck fleece and lifejackets on, all smiles and ready to help lift the anchor for our long haul to Adolphus Island on the top of Australia. This next leg of our trip up the inside of the great barrier reef is to be our last day sail, if you can call it that, for tomorrow we will sail over the top of Australia non stop to Darwin.

The south east trade winds are really blowing now regularly at some 25/30 knots, the boat is sailing under reefed main and working jib at a respectable 6-7 knots with about a knot of favourable current, so you can see we are making really good speed over ground.

The killer lure we purchased in Cairns has claimed yet another victim, on our final approaches to Adolphus Island I permitted Richard one last shot at fishing on the inside of the reef. Well would you believe it? The lure had not been down for 20 -30 minutes when we heard what sounded like the reel clicking then all of a sudden it started to whine Richard sprung up and grabbed the fishing rod and started to wind, I think the fish on the end must have taken at least 100 yards of line and Richard and Andrew were on the stern trying to bring our evening meal to the boat, meanwhile Becky and Katie were trying to slow the boat down to give Richard a fighting chance, he was already showing signs of fatigue we all waited in anticipation to see the monster on the end of the line, but still Richard kept reeling in. In the end to ensure a successful conclusion to this epic we abandoned all idea of sailing and dropped the jib and sheeted in the main to stop the boat. After what seemed like a lifetime waiting for this latest addition to our larder to show its self, we finally got a glimpse of what turned out to be a yellow fin tuna of about some 6.5 kgs, we are eating well tonight. The photo shoot finally concluded our last fishing excursion on the inside of the reef, back to sailing now and on to Adolphus Island, with the girls being able to watch dolphins swimming on the bow for 10 – 15 minutes and a beautiful sundown followed by a surf and turf evening meal a good time was had by all.

Tomorrow we set sail for the Torres Strait and Darwin

Bon voyage

Steve Rouse

Skipper GMIV


BOWLING ALONG....

Voyage Log
Date: Tuesday 12th September 1930hrs
Position: Margaret Bay 11 57.8S 143 12.3 E Great Barrier Reef Australia.

Well the SE trades have really set in today. We looked at the weather report from the internet and a high has developed over south eastern Australia producing south east trade winds to 25-30 knots. So today with the No 1 and a reefed main we slipped our anchorage in Portland Roads and were off like a speeding greyhound forever heading north to Cape York the northern most tip of Australia. We are heading for an anchorage called Adolphus Island close to the Torres Strait and our passage across the top of Australia, another one of my special places.

But for tonight we are anchored in Margaret Bay a rather windy place but not too much swell, when I warned the crew not to swim or take the rubber inflatable ashore the message was reinforced a little later when Bob the mate saw a salt water crocodile with his head up swimming near the boat. Nuff said, not a word was mentioned about going ashore all day.

Margaret Bay looks like a small city tonight just bush and mangrove ashore but a small fleet of boats at anchor, mostly prawn trawlers who work at night collecting their catch and rest by day, the anchorage is shared by yachts heading north on the trade winds to the Torres Strait, Darwin and beyond. All up this coast there are anchorages in the lee of reefs and islands that provide shelter to vessels sailing this part of the coast. During the day when the boat is blasting down waves at speeds Chichester could only dream of Andrew the crew chief and our resident Aussie guide talks about the achievements of Captain Cook and Bligh, the towns, islands and passages in the reef named after them and it sort of makes you think that we are all on this famous boat following in the footsteps of our for-fathers; seems like Gipsy Moth belongs here on unfinished business.

The crew have now been briefed on our early night departure from this anchorage the deck has been prepared and after a hearty meal cooked by Bob the mate only 49 on a healthy eating drive with Becky 19 ¾ “boy is she growing” on Bob’s culinary excursions into the bowels of the Gipsy Moth food archives.

So after yet another perfect day with some rocking down hill sailing and sitting under my roof of a thousand stars we are eagerly awaiting the appearance of the last heavenly body, the moon to complete another day in the life of Gipsy Moth IV.

Good night all.

Steve Rouse

Skipper GMIV


YET ANOTHER TOUGH DAY IN THE OFFICE....

Voyage Log
Date: Monday 11th September 1700hrs
Position: Portland Roads 12 35.55S 143 24.4E Great Barrier Reef Australia.


Last night was a terrible night on board, but not because of the rough sea or the wind. Andrew and Bob, the mates on board snore really loud, so in the end I just grabbed my sleeping bag and joined Steve up on the aft deck. The stars were amazing, Andrew gave me an astronomy lesson after we ate, he showed me what a few of the stars were and where the Milky Way is and stuff like that. He’s like our walking encyclopaedia, he’s quite amazing actually. Any way…. I didn’t wake up ‘til sunrise.

Any way… we woke up at 0600 hrs in the morning; we had a nice warm drink and lifted the anchor. It’s a shame we left Morris Island because it was a really cool place. We were told a story about a pearl diver being buried there, so I set my self up to find it. And u know what…….. I found it, it was quite spooky actually. Becky found a coconut which she just cracked open with some air cooled persuasion. Coconut milk….. Yummy (yea right).

Katie cooked us a nice breakfast, bacon buttes, I don’t know what it was about them but they tasted really good, maybe it’s just because Katie cooked them.

We had a cracking sail today; we didn’t motor at all, 60 miles under sail. We hoisted the running jib today there was no need hoist any other sails, but that still gave us a steady 6 knots of boat speed, the wind varied from around 15 to 25 knots. Becky spotted a sea snake which she reckoned was around 7 foot long. Obviously we all had to do our daily chores which today included scrubbing the decks; thank god I didn’t get stuck with the rubbish again.

We ran in to a few rather large tankers on the way... but that was only due to being very close to the shipping channel, they weren’t really a threat we just altered course around 5 to 10 degrees to keep out of their way.

On our way to our destination we passed by Restoration Island where Capitan Bligh landed after the first leg of his famous longboat voyage following the Bounty mutiny.

We arrived at Portland Roads at 1620 hrs, under the commands of the skipper, Katie and I flaked out the chain and dropped the anchor again… I guess we make a good team, we made a delicious spaghetti bolognaise the other night.

Well… where here in Portland Roads, just two weeks left, I really want to get home and see my family and friends, but on the other hand I really want to stay on board GMIV. I’m having a really great time here, and I think we all get along really well. No one worry… we’ve got a great skipper on board and the boat is still in one piece.

Next stop: Margaret Bay.

Well id like to say hi to all my friends and family, so… hi… I hope you’re not missing me to much, lol. Bye every one.
Love you Mum, Dad, Alex and Silke. Xxx

This is Rich on board Gipsy Moth… out.




PARADISE REVISITED

Voyage Log
Date: Sunday 10th September 2130hrs
Position: Morris Island 13 29.4S 143 43.3E Great Barrier Reef Australia.

This morning at the leisurely time of 07.00 hrs we slipped our anchor in Stokes Bay, Stanley Island, and proceeded under engine for two hours to make water. The thing most people do not understand is that the coastline for the next 1000 miles is wilderness and no cosy marinas or harbours abound here. This is really the part of the world where self sufficiency is very much the buzz word. Hence we need to conserve and make water when we can.

We were able to watch a really nice sunrise and at the same time look at the moon, something that I do not normally have the opportunity to do in the UK. After two hours the trade wind breeze picked up so much that we could sail, and the Gipsy Moth was bounding down wind like a stallion let out of the paddock. It was great to see the old girl sailing covering the miles again as if she was covering old ground, the Isle of Wight cruising chute billowing in the wind and propelling her forward. After a while the wind died again and the iron sail was called on to keep us heading north. No stopping this mission, a few hours later we were again speeding off under sail albeit running sail sheeted hard in and full main at over six and a half knots, we had a cracking sail today, made water and arrived at our anchorage half an hour ahead of schedule.

We are now anchored at Morris Island alongside another Blue Water Rally yacht “White Wings”. Great to see Claus again and share stories, this is what the worldwide cruising family is all about, and once in the family there is no getting out. The fact that I chose to share this beautiful anchorage with my new crew is because I had the luck to pass this way some nine years ago and Morris Island always struck me as being my own little vision of paradise on Earth, a place to cherish and enjoy - only sorry my wife Christine can not be here with me now to share this experience - don’t worry you are in my mind always, we will have many perfect sunsets together.

The crew had a great trip ashore playing Robinson Crusoe and looking around the Island that boasts only one coconut tree, fact is , but don’t tell anyone there are a few baby ones growing. Let that be our little secret.

After a good meal on returning to the boat we are settling down to another night at anchor under the stars, look up you might see us, or maybe we have slipped for our next place in the Great Barrier Reef, Portland Roads, behind Cape Weymouth - maybe we will see you there?


Steve Rouse

Skipper GMIV


DOWN HILL SAILING DOWN UNDER

Voyage Log
Date: Saturday 9th September 1730hrs
Position: Stokes Bay, Stanley Island, 14’09.35 S 144’13.5 E, Flinders Group.

Another early start to the day. The boys were up at 0500 getting the anchor up and making way under engine, and then swiftly hoisting the running sail. This upheaval on deck then woke me up, as I was not woken up at first light, I’m lucky to be sailing with gentlemen who let me have a little lie in. Of course my very first job this morning was to cook breakfast; Steve ordered fried egg sandwiches. Simple you would think. But at this time ( like most of the day has been) we had a moderate to rough sea with and average of fifteen or twenty knots of wind. As the new crew, we have little experience on the boat in this sea, we were attentively introduced to what is now know as ‘The Gipsy Moth Roll.’ The boat rolled from side to side slowly but we were heeled over quite far. I hastily started on making breakfast for a somewhat tired and hungry crew and a skipper who needed his three cups of tea. The hob was put on and pan put on the burner, the problem arose when the eggs were placed in the frying pan. It was deep concentration, skill and technique that stopped those eggs flying round the cabin. Fried eggs (if not slightly scrambled) were served successfully to the crew. Another new and challenging experience to add to the long list.

Coming up on deck this morning, I was greeted with a rising sun and blue sky, and a beautiful emerald blue, clean sea sweeping across the horizon. I was sitting on the windward side of the boat, enjoying the fresh breeze. Steve had spotted dolphins swimming along side the boat, and I was watching one swimming nearby and then looking out for others when a wave hit the side of the boat, but only just where I was sitting drenching me entirely, at least I provided entertainment for the skipper.

We were making good time, about seven to eight knots of speed. Even with a constant ‘Gipsy Moth Roll’ the moths crew still completed the daily house keeping tasks, cleaning the heads, kitchen and the horrible job of rubbish crushing.

All was good up on deck, a beautiful day of sun, sea and surf, the boat was charging through the sea, there was no stopping us. Not even the many reefs and small islands we had to weave our way through; which I must say took constant concentration and skill from the first mate Bob.

We were sailing downwind with the wind mostly on the Moth’s beam, we were constantly changing course to avoid invisible reefs, rocks and the occasional cargo ship, which made interesting conversation guessing what they were carrying, their speed and size.

I myself am lucky enough to sail regularly, but something I’ve been keen to learn is navigation, and what an opportunity this is. And it’s something you must get right as we are of course sailing along side and sometimes through the Great Barrier Reef. I’ve had fantastic support from Bob, Andrew and Steve with navigation understanding.

A great day of sailing has come to an end, everyone is really happy with today’s sailing and progress. Richard and Kate are cooking dinner tonight, we are in a sheltered bay, the sky is clear and blue. We have all just stopped to watch the sun go down on the perfect horizon, we even saw the green flash; so on this I’m going to end the log for today, and enjoy what smells like good food, good friendship and the extraordinary concept of doing it all again tomorrow.

I’m waking up each morning feeling so privileged and excited about the day to come, but going to bed not wanting the day to end.

Life is Good!

Becky Holdstock


AT HOME WITH MRS WATSON

Voyage Log
Date: Friday 8th September 15.30 hrs
Position: Mrs Watson’s Bay Lizard Island 14 39.5S 145 26.9E E Australia

So much to do, so much to see, and so little time to write the voyage log. We are slowly making progress north up the inside of the Great Barrier Reef and every day brings new surprises.

Yesterday we motor sailed to Cape Bedford which was to be our anchorage for the night, we slipped out of the Low Isles in the early hours to enable us to get to the mooring in day light. We arrived at Cape Bedford just before last light and were invited onboard “Bamsen” a Halberg Rassy 62 which is sailing with the Blue Water Rally after a couple of gin and tonics we returned to Gipsy Moth at last light and got stuck into a beef stir fry on the aft deck. The portable burner that we purchased in Cairns as a back up to the diesel cooker is getting well used.

We slipped our anchorage at Cape Bedford at a civilised 07.00 hrs for our short leg to Lizard Island. We promised Christoff on “Bamsen” some fish when we got in to Lizard Island so soon after slipping our anchorage Richard got the magic mackerel lure into the water and we were trolling and navigating our way through the reef to our new place in paradise. The lady in the tackle shop in Cairns said that Spanish mackerel could not resist the new lure we had just purchased, and sure enough she was right and not long after starting to fish Richard lept off his perch on the aft deck to grab hold of this bouncing fishing rod and screaming reel trying not to knock anything over on the aft deck and not to drop the rod under my watchful eye Richard fought and played the fish like an old hand landing it some 10 minutes later just as we were about to enter a green zone in the reef which means no fishing and no trolling – how’s that for luck? Nice one Rich!! That’s something else to add to the beach BBQ tonight and later he proudly presented a 2 foot fillet of Spanish mackerel to “Bamsen”.

So we are now sat at anchor in Mrs Watson Bay in the afternoon sun. What a surprise, my dear friend Bernard from Golden Eye is here and not only that but other Blue Water Rally boats are here as well Sorise K, Fennella, and of course Bamsen. So it looks like Gipsy Moth IV has now caught back up with the Blue Water Rally and I am now able to enjoy chatting to some familiar faces once again.

Any problems Gipsy Moth may have had are now well and truly in the past, roll on Darwin, and looking at the rest of the leg it now looks like we may well be in Darwin on the 20th / 21st September2006.

Next stop Stanley Island in the Flinders group
Steve Rouse, Skipper.


ANOTHER GOOD DAY AT THE OFICE

Voyage Log
Date: Wednesday 6th September 20.00 hrs
Position: Low Isles 16 22.9 S 145 33.8 E Australia

Today the whole crew were up and about early making final preparations for our move north; the meat man arrived on time and delivered our frozen provisions and we slipped silently out of Marlin marina in Cairns at 07.00 hrs. It was not long before the smell of bacon butties came wafting up from the galley, so as we ventured slowly out into the fairway the mate Bob Bradfield 54 from Saffron Walden was ensuring that the crew started the day with a hearty breakfast. Bob has done a great job fixing things around the boat over the last few days and improving others.

On The helm was Richard Benady 17 from Gibraltar having the time of his life keeping Gipsy Moth firmly in the channel until the depth of water was enough to change course for the Low Isles. As the wind picked up we hoisted our Isle of Wight cruising chute got on course and in 8 knots of wind were doing 4.8 knots boat speed on a gentle swell. Just as everyone was getting into siesta mode and only a couple of hours out of Cairns we caught our first Spanish mackerel. It was a reasonable size and I introduced the crew to gutting and filleting fish, we managed to get six good sized fillet steaks off each side.

We arrived in the Low Isles at 15.30 hrs and picked up a blue mooring buoy. Under the watchful eye of our crew chief Andrew Bray 57 of Avalon Beach in Sydney the crew went snorkelling in the bay whilst myself and the mate Bob got our Spanish Mackerel supper ready, it was indeed a feast to behold, fresh fish done in garlic and olive oil shallow fried on the back of the boat with sundowners. The crew Richard, Becky and Katie returned after an hours swimming shouting and screaming and jumping about all over the deck claiming to have found “Nemo” and from the amount of the wild life swimming around the boat, who was I to disagree?

So another brilliant sailing day has been had by the crew of Gipsy Moth IV sitting on this anchorage after a perfect day listening to the swell gently breaking on the nearby reef the starlight enhanced by the few anchor lights of the other boats in the bay you realise how privileged we all are to be able to be part of this magnificent adventure.


Steve Rouse, Skipper.


ALL SET FOR THE OFF....

Voyage Log
Date: Tuesday 5th September 22.00 hrs
Position: Marlin Marina Cairns Australia

Sorry for the lack of reporting over the past day but those of you that cruise oceans will understand that preparing for an ocean passage takes a lot of hard work and attention to detail, the customs at Cairns have been really helpful: we thank you for your assistance. We now have a new radar which will be fitted in Darwin thanks to Simrad; the boat is now ready to sail north; the rudder problems that have been with us since the Whitsunday’s are now long behind.
The new crew are really working well and taking a pride in this piece of British national maritime heritage:, the polishing continues and the dry ice means that we will have fresh food for at least 8 days.
We will be slipping tomorrow and heading north for the Low Isles, an anchorage 60 miles north of Carins and trolling for Spanish mackerel to supplement our diet.
My intention is to day sail up the inside if the Great Barrier Reef to enable the crew to benefit from seeing the marvels around and for the safety factor of being able to see the reef whilst sailing. It should take us about 6 days to get to cape York, the northern tip of Australia, from where we will sail direct to Darwin where the tides equal the channel islands with ranges of some 7 meters so we will have to be careful when we approach the anchorage in Fannie bay, off the Darwin Yacht Club, before proceeding to Cullen Bay marina. Our estimated time of arrival is 23 /24 September 2006.

I can tell that moral is high because as I sit here typing my skippers log the laughter and banter of the crew fill the cockpit with anticipation of things to come. For those that are reading from the northern parts of the UK Katie is missing everyone at home madly but is toughing it out. Well done to her and I am sure that this is going to be an earth shattering experience for all. Once we leave we will be on our own for 1200 miles.

Other members of the blue water rally are in Marlin marina and will be heading north soon. It’s great to catch up with some dear friends and exchange stories and passage notes. Bernard if you are out there I am on my way Giz a call it will be nice to catch up over a sundowner.

Great news was received today. My new son Paul has got engaged to his long term girlfriend Sarah I could not be more proud; what a moral booster. Congratulations to you both, sorry Paul now the whole world knows.

Good nite camp followers c u soon.




Steve Rouse, Skipper.


SPLIT FORCES

Voyage Log
Date: Sunday 3 September 21.00 hrs
Position: Marlin Marina Cairns Australia

Gaday
Today the GMIV crew were at work at 06.00hrs getting the boat ready for our passage to Darwin up the inside of Australia’s Great Barrier Reef. After a hearty breakfast and briefing the new crew which consists of myself Steve Rouse the mate Bob Bradfield Crew chief Andrew Bray and very enthusiastic crew members Richard Benady, Rebecca Holdstock, and Katie Brewins got stuck into the morning work list, which consisted of stripping off the rudder shoe for repair, laundry and making inventories of everything on the boat and learning the stowage plan.

For the afternoon we split forces the crew having the once in a lifetime chance to visit the Great Barrier Reef on one of the many commercial vessels that work from Cairns. The afterguard then went to work on the million and one admin tasks required for a passage north to Darwin through the Tories strait. We found a man in Palm Avenue who was recommended by a passer by who saw Gipsy Moth in Plymouth 1967 and just wanted to know if this was indeed the real one, we explained our rudder problem to him and via a friend of a friend who knew a man that would do a good machining job for us, and so on a Sunday afternoon we drove into downtown Cairns to find this person - his name is Neil - and after half an hour the deal was done. What a place, “come back tomorrow at about one o’clock” he said - how’s that for service?

On the drive back I got to thinking about this cosmopolitan city far north on the Queensland coast, the last port of call for yachts heading north and beyond and what a city full of paradoxes. A modern vibrant city full of holiday makers and the bush just yards away, new and old, modern super yachts and home made cruising yachts and fishing boats, people from across the globe and Gipsy Moth in the marina onlookers staring in astonishment “is that really Sir Francis Chichester’s boat” the question is asked throughout the day by the many and answered by the few “yes it is “.

So upbeat and full of enthusiasm the new crew have turned in for the night fighting off the jet lag that confuses the mind and torments the body. One more day should do it, we are hoping to leave on Tuesday for our trip north first stop Low Isles then up to Cape Bedford, the intention is to day sail and so make the most of what this natural wonder of the world has to offer.


Steve Rouse, Skipper.


Andrew Eccleston's weather forecasts will appear in this section when the leg begins.
The University of Plymouth's analysis of the oceanographic data collected by the Gippsy Moth IV crew will be displayed shortly after the completion of this leg.
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