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Voyage Log 30th October

Position: Benoa Marina, Bali
8° 44.5’ South, 116° 12.8’ East

Quote of the day- “Wisely, and slowly. They stumble that run fast!”
Sam

Out in Indonesia like many other places, practically everything you buy has the price hiked up, especially if you’re not local! The Japanese generally get ripped off the most; this is because they do not try to barter!
There is a real art to bartering, which ever price that they are offering you, you generally have to look disgusted and go to walk away. They will no doubt call you to move to offer a price below there figure, the quicker the bartering is over the more you know your getting a bad deal, there is always disappointment if you go in too high early on with your offer and your accepted. The general rule is to offer a quarter of what is being asked.

The very best deals are when you find your-self bartering for just a couple of pence. They tell you angrily and disappointed they can’t do the price you’re offering and then you walk away. As you get around the corner they come chasing after you shaking there head and agreeing! (Now I know I have a good deal)

Greg

We had the first ever lie in on this trip!! All 2 hours of it! Blisssss!
At around midday, Sam, Nigel and I went to Denpasar, the main town of the area to do some shopping. It was quite a run down area with what looked like old apartments as the shops. The markets smelt nice with all the foods and spices. But these apartment- like shops became quite repetitive with all the local clothes being sold. Be it a combination of a hangover and lack of sleep, I didn’t really enjoy this excursion as I saw quite a bit of poverty, and the shops weren’t overly interesting. Saying that, there was a floor that sold some awesome pieces of art which if I had the means to, I would have definitely bought and shipped back to England!
As we were on our way home, we thought that as it was still a beautiful day, a trip to the beach was in order to see what the surf was doing! Blatantly had to be done! Surf wasn’t great, but met up with Benny, and some new people who were amazing! Had a really good afternoon just chilling, talking to the locals on the beach!

Kirstie

Its are last night in bail no more writing logs and no more sleeping on this boat, last night we had a meal out and watched some of the local s doing a dance for us. After that we went into town to hit the pubs and clubs not much was really happen not many people where out.

I was told some thing out here I will never forget
A local told me “If a fisher man offers u a squid with the head cut off don’t buy it off them!” I won’t tell u why! u will just have to guess why, I will give u a hint they spend a long time at sea and get lonely!

Nigel

Went to Denpasr to do some last minute shopping. Halfway though second book saved some for flight home.

C Voyage Log 28th October

Position: Benoa Marina, Bali
8° 44.5’ South, 116° 12.8’ East

Quote of the day- “What counts is not the number of hours you put in, but how much you put into the hours”
Sam
With three crew, all of different ages and different backgrounds and all have different interests, its very hard to keep them all entertained at once. Kirstie was content to just laze about on the boat and watch a few DVD’s on the computer. Nigel spent the morning stripping the last few winches with Greg. He then spent the day washing and packing his collection of vacant shells from various beaches around Indonesia, his Intention was to go for a trip out to a village called Mas where they specialise in wood calving’s for the whole of Bali.
Then there was Greg, he wanted some action and was keen to go to one of Bali’s great surf spots.
Last night when walking the back streets of Kuta looking for a cheep “Warong” (food stool) I bumped into a good local friend that my wife and I employed many years ago. He pulled some strings and organised a few boards for us to use.
This now unfortunately left me in a difficult position, should I stay on the boat, go for a drive to Mas or take Greg surfing! It was a tuff decision however I felt that Greg should be supervised and so we hit the waves!
Greg
Sun, sea, sand, surf and BINTANG BEER!! The ultimate combination as proven today! After waking up savagely early as usual to finish servicing the winches with Nigel, Sam and I headed back to Kuta beach to meet Benny, some dude we met last night so that we could get some surf boards cheap and have a quick session. Was so good, and he is the ultimate legend! Such a nice guy! Not only being in the water for the majority of the afternoon, but meeting more locals and talking to Benny was just awesome. I think this evening too he will be showing us some of the bhangin’ clubs in Bali which will be awesome! He says there are lots of Japanese girls around, so I can practise my Japanese… Hah!

Kirstie
I did not really do a lot today just stayed on the boat and sun bathed. Today I started to pack my stuff ready for going home just one more day left here, and I can’t wait to be on that plane home as really miss every one back at home, a bit later we are going to a keens up what ever that is but I will let u no now it goes tomorrow.

Nigel
Finished maintenance, finished book.(started new one)

C Voyage Log 28th October

Position: Benoa Marina, Bali
8° 44.5’ South, 116° 12.8’ East

Quote of the day- “If I had my whole life to live again …..I don’t think I’d have the strength!”
Sam
Were moored on the corner of a very tight space on the entrance to Benoa marina. Vessels have been struggling to get around us so we were asked to vacate this morning for a few hours. A group of larger vessels were due to come in and out, this was perfect timing for the water maker trial, the crew were all convinced that we had fixed the problem, I had hoped however remained optimistic. There was no way I was going to run the water maker in the marina, so as soon as we cleared the entrance the water went from this muggy green smog to a rich deep blue colour and so we started the process of producing water.
The feeling of relief was unexplainable as the pump pumped the water into the sink faster and harder than it had on the last leg of the voyage! Problem was definitely solved! Phueeew!

Greg

Had an immense day once again! Early this morning, we learnt how to whip ropes, and how to service the winches, which was useful! Whipping was even enjoyable by the end…! Ahhh and also found out today that I can go to Singapore on another boat (which is a BEAST!) which really made me smile!! Just need so sort out a bit of paper work, but after then, all systems are go! Later in the afternoon, Sam, Nigel and I went to Kuta. Had a wonder round some shops, and a nice walk on the beach and a little dip. Sam also found one of his ex colleagues who says he can sort us out with some surf boards tomorrow which will be sweet!!! The taxi ride home was quite entertaining. We had a driver who had some super cheesy happy hardcore music playing! RAVE!!

Kirstie

Not really done much do today but just chilling and sun bathing we had to take the boat out for a spin to see If the water maker would work after it had been fixed. I thought I was over been sea sick but I was wrong, we were only out for a hour but I felt so ill and was glad to be back alongside! I’m really looking forward to getting home, I have enjoyed my time here but just missing home and the people I love.

Nigel
We went out today and Tested the water maker then filled tanks, during the afternoon we then went to Kuta.

C Voyage Log 27th October

Position: Benoa Marina, Bali
8° 44.5’ South, 116° 12.8’ East

Quote of the day- “I am an optimist. There does not seem to be much use in being anything else” (Winston Churchill)

Sam

Another Great day out in Indo, we got up at the crack of dawn, awoken by the sound of the kettle whistle, it was Nigel once again, and keen as mustered to start the day! I’m sure he never sleeps! Today’s task was to complete the remaining routine maintenance then a treat, an afternoon in Sanur a beautiful quiet white sandy beach with huge breakers forming about a mile out to sea on a reef. With all my energy and enthusiasm I couldn’t convince them that should try to go see the island for what it really is away from the tourist areas! The guys just wanted to chill and relax on the beach have an ice cream and wonder around looking at a few of the shopping stools. They have been working flat out, and with a little convincing I think they could be persuaded to go do a day trip and see the volcanoes, rice fields, and calving’s etc

Great news! The water maker is back, fixed to the engine. However we are not allowed to run it for 16 hours until the liquid steel filling the holes has had its full time to cure. So we will give it ago at first light. Watch this space!

Greg

Today Kirstie and I pretty much finished all the cleaning and maintenance that we had to do! And some bits were even fun…! The masts needed cleaning so guess where I went! It was really cool to see around the marina from the top of the mast, to have a snoop at all the boats. Some are awesome! Met briefly “Rassy” who builds Halberg Rassy boats, one of the best! He was so funny, originally Swedish but raised in Germany with such a strong accent!
After we had finished cleaning, we went to Sanur to look at the shops and just chill really. Was a nice little village with some good shops and the beach was pretty good too! We tried to blag our way into a private spot of beach owned by the hotel so that we could use their sun lounge’s, but unsuccessful.


Kirstie

Yet another day for cleaning not much left to do now and then we can chill for the last few days! We cleaned for about 4 hours early this morning before going out for the day. We went to a beach where there were lots of things to do, but it was a lot of money and also a really hot day so we came back about 3 ish and just laid back and enjoyed the sun.

Nigel

Had a great day at the beach, spent the afternoon and early evening putting the water maker pump back on, now off for a hot shower and a cold beer.
John


Good things? Seeing the magnificent Itralian Superyacht ”La Numero Uno” ease its gracful 130 foot bulk sidewyas onto the wall using bow thrustyers, stern thrusters, and just plain magic. Wow. Que Bella.Being reunited with lots of old buddies from the Blue Water Rally and sharing tales of their journeys here. Getting the watermaker pump off even though it looked as if it was going to be impossible (“takes a little longer”). Seeing Jupiter and Mercury together in the west, just after sunset – hey, that’s three!

Things learned? I knew already that the end of Ramadhan, which corresponds with the new moon at the end of the month of fasting, is marked by a celebration known as ‘Eid’ in many countries, called ‘Idul Fitri ‘ here in Indonesia. What I didn’t know is that there are 2 groups here who don’t agree over how to decide when it should be! The urban-based Muhammadiyah decide the date by calculation; this year, they decided it was Monday. The more traditional and rural Nahdlatul Ulama prefer to base their decision on a physical sighting of the New Moon. They didn’t spot it on Sunday, so declared Idul Fitri would be Tuesday.

What’s great about it is that the 2 groups rub along so well together. Many of the Muhammadiyah had a very low-key celebration, so as not to offend those who were still fasting. And despite the differences there has been no sign of any serious falling-out. Compare this with the murderous bitterness between Shia and Sunni in Iraq! Indonesia seems to me to be setting a great example of tolerance of differences between groups.

Voyage Log 26h October

Position: Benoa Marina, Bali
8° 44.5’ South, 116° 12.8’ East

Quote of the day- “There is no failure, except in no longer trying”

Sam
Due to the heat, we have been starting the day as early as possible so as to be as productive as possible before the heat kicks in, but with all good intentions to start at 05:30, we finally crawled out at 06:15!
John and I started on dismantling the bracket and pump for the water maker, only problem is the hole to get the water maker out from is smaller than the unit itself! Oh and to remove the bracket we had to remove one of the engine mounts, nothings ever easy!

Greg
After being woken savagely early this morning to do maintenance and general cleaning, I soon discovered that I had been bitten to s*** by mozzies! Not nicee!
But we finished out cleaning in a few hours which was good, and we don’t have loads to do so should have quite a bit of free time to explore Bali!
Sam, Kirstie and I went into Kuta this evening to do some shopping. Found a few nice things at pretty good prices! But things in surf shops are similar to England prices, although the range is far better! Most of the Blue Water Rally have arrived now, and in some pretty awesome boats! I now officially want to own a PHATT yacht when I’m older! Now just chilling back at the ranch, about to eat supper on board and then have an early night. As I am shattered!

Kirstie

Had a really good day to but this morninmg was a bit boring we weree ment to get up at 5.30 but were still in bed at 6.00 as we had to clean the boat from top to bottom we claened till about 11.00 and went for a wash after all that hard work at about 4.00 we went in to kutoa to do some shopping which was the best part of the day.

Nigel

Spent the morning checking the rigging. Then went to the super market for food. Had an easy afternoon reading.

John

Good things? Being reunited with lots of old buddies from the Blue Water Rally and sharing tales of their journeys here. Getting the watermaker pump off even though it looked as if it was going to be impossible (“takes a little longer”). Seeing Jupiter and Mercury together in the west, just after sunset – hey, that’s three!

Things learned? I knew already that the end of Ramadhan, which corresponds with the new moon at the end of the month of fasting, is marked by a celebration known as ‘Eid’ in many countries, called ‘Idul Fitri ‘ here in Indonesia. What I didn’t know is that there are 2 groups here who don’t agree over how to decide when it should be. The urban-based Muhammadiyah decide the date by calculation; this year, they decided it was Monday. The rural and more traditional Nahdlatul Ulama prefer to base their decision on a physical sighting of the New Moon. They didn’t spot it on Sunday, so declared Idul Fitri would be Tuesday.

What’s great about it is that the 2 groups rub along so well together. Many of the Muhammadiyah had a very low-key celebration, so as not to offend those who were still fasting. And despite the differences there has been no sign of any serious falling-out. Compare this with the murderous bitterness between Shia and Sunni in Iraq! Indonesia seems to me to be setting a great example of tolerance of differences between groups.

Voyage Log 25th October

Position: Benoa Marina, Bali
8° 44.5’ South, 116° 12.8’ East

Quote of the day- “ Just think how happy you’d be if you lost everything you have right now – and then got it back again”

Sam
After awaking this morning in amongst this beautiful village with all these floating Kelongs (wooden fishing platforms with small shacks on) and the sound of cockerels. We slipped once again and motored! A hot cup of coffee in one hand the tiller between my legs, I stood bare footed in just my shorts, and said to myself ”just another day at the office!”
The Leg 19 has finally arrived at its destination “Benoa Bali” We are now preparing ourselves for the big clean up and vitally important routine maintenance program. Any vessel but particularly a vessel of this age and status being a piece of national treasure has to be looked after.

Greg

Today was our last official day of sailing!! All rather quite sad that we won’t be on the high seas again on old Gypsy! But the crossing to Bali was smooth, warm, but with not much wind, so no sailing was to be had… ooooo but on the way, in the distance, I saw what I thought was just another sailing boat on it’s way to Bali. But a few hours later, after waking up from some hardcore sun bathing, we were a lot closer to this boat. Sam pointed out to me that it was a 140 foot cruising super yacht worth over £30 million! And she was beautiful!! A definite purchase for the future!
After mooring in the marina, we went out in the evening for supper and had a general browse! They had some awesome surf shops which had immense things, but quite pricey.. still cheaper than in the UK. So will have to investigate further in the next few days. Ahh and it was so good today NOT to have to drop the anchor! All that was needed was to tie the boat to the pontoon! EASY!! And there are showers too!!!

Kirstie
It was are last day sailing in a way I’m kind of glad but sad we are we at are last port of call and one step closer to home I’m glad we are as there a showers phones and ever thing u could want we went in to kota and had a look round there was loads of stuff to buy we had a meal at a cheap place and made are way back to the boat as we still have a lot of things to do yet .

Nigel
Left early to get to Bali. Motored all the way again. We came into the marina when we got here, all that’s left to do now is the cleaning and the maintenance.

John

Two good things today? Let’s see. Well, there’s the convenience of being able to step down onto a pontoon at last. For the first time since I left Darwin 3 weeks ago, I don’t have to climb into and out of a dinghy. And there’s the prospect of being able to stand under a shower. (I don’t yet know if it will actually be working, but let’s not be too ambitious).

Things learned? One is that daily diaries get completed much more quickly when there are 3 laptops in use at the same time. You should hear the click and rattle of keyboards, just like the insects in the tropical forests we’ve been used to since leaving Kupang. Another is about common experience around the world. We have found a lot that is familiar among the mixed populations of both Christian and Muslim people that we have met, and Bali is yet another side of Indonesian life, this time with a predominantly Hindu population. But one thing is just like home; whenever you find a good spot in a marina, a man with a hat will come along and make you move.

Voyage Log 24th October

Position: At anchor, Teluk Labuhantereng, west Lombok
8° 43.8’ South, 116° 04.6’ East

Quote of the day- “ If you can’t change facts, try bending your attitude”

Sam
We made such good progress through the night it was looking like we may arrive too early, this is never a good thing with so many reefs in an uncharted unfamiliar area. So I pulled back the revs on the engine to slow her down and widened the course, so as to give us a few hours. Big mistake, huge, absolutely huge! The tide running south on the western channel of Lombok was running at approximately six knots. We only make six knots which means we stand still! Dowwwp! With just a small narrow channel we creeped up alongside the tall cliffs and shallow reefs to get passed this 5nm slot, with the GPS playing up the newly installed Simrad Radar was a blessing!

Greg
Everywhere we seem to visit, in the villages and towns, we always seem to get the warmest of welcomes from the locals. Today was no exception. After changing anchoring spots to near to a quiet village, we decided to go ashore and scout around. As soon as we stepped out of the rib, we were instantly greeted by about twenty locals. All absolute legends! Such lovely people! As we walked around, we were slowly getting surrounded by people who all wanted to have their photos taken with us, even the adults! One guy we met gave us a few bunches of baby bananas, which were sooo good! Infinitely better than bananas back home! we won’t be sailing tonight, so ultimately looking to a full night’s sleep! YESSSS!!
Kirstie
We sailed our last ever night no more waking up every 3 hours, we made our last stop before bail it was a big ferry port not much fun we went a shore and had a look around not much really there so we went for some thing to eat I don’t really like most food and being out here I have not really eaten a lot since I have been here so why not try something it may have only been noodles but I ate some and it tasted ok .

Nigel
Spent the morning creeping around the shore to avoid a very strong adverse tide, about 6 knots! On our way, we passed a large group of local sailing boats with brightly coloured sails. We first stopped at a ferry port, then moved round the corner to stop for the night. Anchored just off from a village with kelongs (stationary fishing platforms) around us.

John

So what 2 things have I learned today? Well, if there is a harbour on the chart that looks absolutely perfect in every way, but doesn’t get a mention in the Pilot Book, there’s probably a good reason. Another – ferry terminals the world over will have places to buy food, but it will be overpriced.

Today’s good moments? Lots, but here are a couple. ‘Noodle Surprise’, put together from among the last few items in the food locker, an unexpected mixture of noodles, spicy sauce and tinned fruit. Cost a fortune at a fashionable restaurant. Another – that moment when the tension comes on the chain, the yacht starts to move gently forward again, and you just know the anchor is well and truly in.

Voyage Log 23rd October

Position:
8° 54’ South, 116° 39’ East – Selat Alas, between Sumbawa and Lombok

Quote of the day- “All I need is a tall ship, and a star to steer her by” (John Masefield, poet).
“OK, but a hot shower would be nice, too” (John Jeffrey, sailor)
Sam
I’m mother again today, and we have just started our journey across from Sumbawa to Lombok. Earlier today we purchased some fresh fish from a little guy in a simpang (small dugout canoe) We started chatting in Indonesian. He recommended that we anchored between some raging breakers, after an interrogation of questions he convinced me it was safe, as there is no sign of reefs on our chart. In fact for a great number of the reefs throughout Indonesia we have had to trust a bit of local knowledge.
This place is heaven! Great surf a little shack built on the beach solely catering for surfers and spear fishing.
Greg
Around early afternoon today, we arrived at out destination after a days sailing. A small surfing bay with a few resorts. Looked amazing with the white sandy beaches and good surf crashing against the reefs. It had been such a warm day that as soon as we set anchor, I jumped in, and the water was LOVELY!! A lot cooler than the 33 degree waters we had been used to which was nice! After cooling off and having a general look at the sea bed, we got down to some serious cleaning of the ship’s hull, which had a coating of green algae around her… niceee! It was actually quite therapeutic diving under to scrape off all the rubbish! After that was done, we headed ashore to see if we could purchase any more munch and just for a general scout. It was so good; as we neared one of the resorts, we could hear the Chillis being blasted out from some phat speakers! Yeaaa! Went to check it out and found a bar where we stopped for a cool drink. Happy days!

Kirstie (The grizzly one!
It has been a very long day we sailed all night and all day we finely got to are stop were we were going to staying the night and get some shopping we really needed but we changed are minds and now we are off again .

Nigel
After motoring all night and for most of the day, we arrived at our stop point. We bought 4 fish from a fisherman for the evening tea because there wasn’t a shop where we stopped. We cooked tea and set off for another night’s motoring to our next destination.

John
For a while there in the early hours of this morning I wasn’t sure how far we’d get today. Watching Saturn rise behind us, thinking peaceful thoughts, I was rudely interrupted by the engine panel lighting up like a Christmas tree and sending out an near-splitting shriek, loud enough to wake Sam (but oddly, no-one else!). Off with the engine and out with the main sheet to catch what little following wind there was. Not much, but within half an hour we had rigged a preventer and a poled out headsail and were making some sort of progress. Then off with the engine cover to troubleshoot – sure enough, a broken alternator drive belt.
Two things learned today? If you have a box labelled ‘Engine Spares’ with lots of fanbelts in it, don’t assume they will be the right size! And it really, really is handy to have a head torch – so much better than holding a Maglite in your teeth when you’re crawling around the deck fiddling with the string. (Actually, I’m cheating a bit, I knew that already).
Two good thing? It was great to have Kirsty steering a steady course while Sam and I were getting the pole up, which is a handful even in daylight. Thanks, Kirsty.
And I did see Saturn rising.

Voyage Log 22nd October

Position: Heading west along the south coast of Sumbawa
9° 06’ South, 117° 45’ East

Quote of the day- “On my yacht, the water maker produces water faster then the washing machine can use it” (Christophe Rassy, owner and builder of Halberg Rassy 62 ‘Bamsen IV’)

Sam
Eternity is:-The second hour of a monopoly game, or waiting for the results of a pregnancy test, or Waiting for the lights to go green when you’ve spotted an empty parking space across the intersection, or this morning when watching the GPS estimating our arrival time to be --:-- (never!) We were trying to creep up the East side of Komodo Island with a hoofing great current against us. After a few hours into the 24-hour journey we spun around and changed the venue, we are no longer passing north of Sumbawa in the shelter of the islands but out into the Indian Ocean, were heading for the western corner to a Kampang (village) called “Maluk”. Only this time our e.t.a. is now reading tomorrow morning! phueeew
Greg
After leaving Komodo without seeing a dragon : ( at around six this morning, we were pretty much straight into shifts as we were sailing for a day and a night to get to our next destination. In between shifts during the day, after finishing cleaning and other odd jobs, as it was another lovely day I made the most of the lovely weather! Ahh and for the first time this trip, I saw dolphins! Albeit they were only along side us for all of a minute… still saw them!

Kirstie
We set of early this morning at about half 5 as we were going for a long hall sailing all day and all night and going to be very tried at the end of it not really much wind but we are still rocking and rolling.

Nigel
Left Komodo island fishing village early for a day and night sail to our next stop. During the day, Sam got bored and went out on the Spiniker pole to video us putting up the cruising shoot (to make it look like we were actually sailing!!).

John

When I’m introducing young people to sailing I always suggest that they should have a little ritual every night before they go to sleep, whether on board or ashore at home. Think of (and ideally write down) 2 things that you’ve learned during the day, and 2 things that have made you feel good. They don’t have to be world-shattering experiences, or even anything to do with sailing. Seeing a dolphin or a sunrise or a shooting star, receiving a compliment, that first sip of tea after a 4 am wake up call - anything that felt welcome at the time. This habit helps you keep a positive view of the world.

So perhaps I should take my own advice this evening. I’ve been listening to Johnny Cash, so I’ve learned that (a) you don’t go passing hot cheques down in Mississippi, and (b) there ain’t no good chain gang. As for the good things, well I’ve managed to get through to my wife on my mobile. Always a pleasure to hear from home, and what’s more she gave me another good thing to note for the day; Harry Redknapp’s heroes are still 4th in the Premiership. Way to go, Pompey! Bet I’m Portsmouth FC’s most remote fan right now.

Voyage Log 21st October

Position:
8° 35’ South, 119° 21.5’ East

Quote of the day- “The best way out of a difficulty is through it”

Sam
We went out for a meal in Campong Camodo( a small rustic local fishing village) after I got talking to a local chap in Berhasa briefly he invited us back to his home on stilts, where his mother was to cook us a meal. John goes into more detail below. Upon leaving it is customary to exchange gifts, he gave me some old grubby T-shirt in exchange for my favourite Oxbow very expensive shirt my sister bought me..ops sorry char char! So if any body sees this on e-bay!! What a fabulous night.

Greg

We stopped today on an island called Rinca where there were rumoured to be Komodo Dragons!! Anchor was set in a stunning bay, and we headed ashore.
Some locals that we passed on entering the bay told us that the dragons were up the hills, which were more like small mountains! (I think quietly they were taking the piss and just wanted to see us sweat it out climbing those bloody mountains!) So we headed off. John, Kirstie and I walked for about 3 hours, up and down these “hills” with no luck! But all wasn’t lost, as the views from the peaks of the hills were absolutely stunning. Plus the walk was rather enjoyable, first bit of proper exercise on the whole trip! Just a shame that the water wasn’t so appealing as a cool down would have been sweet!!
On the way back to the boat, there was a fishing boat selling pearls that they had found themselves from under the sea, and were all quite beautiful. And the guys on the boat were absolute legends even though they drive a hard bargain!


Kirstie

We set of from Flores at about 4 PM to make are way to are next port of call, we sailed through the night taking it in turns to sail the boat there was not much wind in the early hours we made it to a small group of islands. We drop anchor and went a to the beach to look for commode dragons. We set off on are way to find the commode dragons, we walked about 800 ft up a hill to see if we could find them. We made to the top it felt like it took for ever but no dragons in site all we saw was there poo, great it was a shame we did not see any but I never wanna walk up a hill again.

Nigel
Saw some dolphin’s whilst on the helm this morning. Bought astring of pearls from a fisherman at the bay we stoped at today.

John

We never did manage to find a Komodo Dragon, but we did stumble across a great experience. Rahlai, the guide who told us that it was too late to see the Dragons, took pity on us, and invited us to his home for supper. Rahlai lives with his mother in the Muslim village of Komodo, a fishing village of 1,000 people. Their waterside house, like all the others, is built on stilts. We were shown up an external wooden staircase to an entrance way where we took off our shoes before going inside the plain but spotless wooden house. There is just one storey, with partitions and curtains dividing the area into separate rooms.
Rahlai took us through to the front of the house, where he arranged chairs in a semicircle so that we could look out to sea through the large unglazed window opening. His mother was cooking over an open fire in a screened-off corner, and soon produced tea and coffee for us. As we sipped our drinks we had a grandstand view of the fishing fleet setting off, one by one, in the fading light. Several neighbours dropped by to check out the foreigners, in the way of villagers everywhere. As dusk deepened, and Rahlai lit an oil lamp, we were treated to a stunning display. The fishing fleet, now formed up in a line across the far side of the bay, all turned their lights on. The effect was like a diamond necklace strung along the horizon. In the background, we could hear the sounds from the mosque as the faithful were being called to prayer
But dinner was soon ready, and we moved into the main room of the house. This is the one with electricity, powering a single long-life bulb and a small fluorescent tube giving us enough light to see what we were eating as we sat cross-legged on the carpeted floor. A bowl of rice (nasi) and another of noodles (mi) formed the basis of it, and to go with these staples there were dishes of fish and omelette. It was all intended to be eaten with the fingers, though Rahlai produced spoons for us all, and even used one himself, to make us feel more comfortable. The speciality was a bowl containing a fish head in spicy stock, much prized by the local people. I was honoured to be offered the chief delicacy, the fish eye. I certainly wouldn’t have chosen it, but there was no question of offending our hosts by refusing it. Part of the ritual is that the honoured diner is expected to dig the eye out of its socket with his fingers. The power failed at about this stage, and in the flicker of the oil lamp I could hardly see what I was doing; this was not a moment to be squeamish, though, and I was soon sucking on my treat. It had no particular taste, but an intriguing texture. Well, it did me no harm, and at least I can say I’ve tried it. For me, the most tasty part of the meal was the noodles, though the real delight was the experience itself.
Back to the ‘beach view’ room and another view of the fairy lights across the bay, then after a little more conversation (Rahlai is quite fluent in English, and as eager to learn about us as we are to learn about Indonesia) it was time to go back on board.
Isn’t this kind of experience of someone else’s culture one of the main reasons why we travel? Everything about the event was novel. That’s why I have written down my recollections in detail, to help the memory stay sharp. Despite the unfamiliarity of it all, though, the simple wish to show hospitality to strangers is surely something that should be common to us all.

Voyage Log 20th October

Position: Heading westward along the N coast of Flores
8¢X 12¡¦ South, 120¢X 40¡¦ East

Quote of the day- ¡§Don¡¦t find a fault. Find a remedy¡¨ (Henry Ford)

Sam
Due to the crew leader having his own boat and my mate being a highly experienced skipper himself, I chose to include myself into the rolling watch roster.
I have also split the 5 crew into three groups myself being one group and the other four divided in to two groups for mother watch, so if one is ill the other can cover. Well today is my day to be mother, this includes all cooking and cleaning below deck! whoopee do!

Well when I discovered I had five minutes to spare I decided to take the fishing reel apart and try and fix the little bliter! I mean how hard can it be? Its got too be similar to a winch on a boat right? WRONG! If I ever say ¡§just gona whip this reel apart and try and fix it¡¨
Bite me! Or bash me over the head with a winch handle. Big mistake huge mistake, a five-minute job lasted forever. If it weren¡¦t for the fact that I was skipper, or that there were crew watching I would have buried it deep in the back of a cupboard!! We got there in the end.ƒº

Greg

The shifts this morning were probably the hardest yet. Waking up at 12am, then again at 5am was so sooo difficult. For the first hour of each shift I was practically still asleep. Not nice! Today again was bloody hot, but we anchored in a really stunning bay. The diving was pretty good too; there were quite a lot of reefs that hadn¡¦t been blown up, and saw some stunning fish!! Like the ones you¡¦d see in aquariums. Very happy indeed!


Kirstie

We set of at about 4 pm to make our way to are next stop, we had quite a bit of wind, so we got the sails up and it started the wonderful gypsy mouth roll I felt so sick but within a hour then wind died down we sailed through the night I came on shift about 1 and half hours in we had dolphins swimming a long the boat it was so wonderful to see as I have never seen them in the wild before.

Nigel

Made an early start again. Very, very hot today. Stopped at a really beautiful inlet for several hours, must come back here some day. Started to read the book I brought with me.

John

Another chance to dive on a coral reef today, and another chance to feel a little sad at the condition of it. Today¡¦s reef had plenty of thriving coral of all shapes, sizes and hues, and a population of colourful fish, starfish, and unidentified crawly things. But there was also plenty of evidence that some fishermen use explosives to kill or stun fish which then float to the surface and can be gathered easily. The coral is shattered and lies in fragments on the seabed, looking for all the world like a boneyard. If the bombing continues it will destroy the reef, as it already has done to others that we¡¦ve seen. The fish will no doubt find somewhere else to live, but the coral will be gone for good.

Speaking of ¡¥good¡¦, I¡¦m feeling rejuvenated after my swim. A bucket of fresh water left on deck in the blistering heat before I dived in was warm by the time I climbed back aboard, and now I feel great after rinsing the salt off. A nice extra touch was to receive an email from my granddaughter. Not 3 years old yet, and a wizard with the computer already. Smart girl.

Voyage Log 19th October

Position: At anchor off Tg Batu Boga, North Flores
8 degrees 28.28 minutes South, 121 degrees 57.39 minutes East

Quote of the day- “We do not remember days, we remember moments”

Sam

Great day today, we have had a bit of wind, which is always good for a sailing trip on a sailing boat! Whilst on passage today the fishing line went out and within no time at all there was this zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz and the reel was a smokin! The boat was brought to an abrupt halt and we started to crank this beast in, it gave a hell of a fight, and the crew were all guessing what was on the end, after most crew members had taken turns on reeling her in it finally appeared exhausted! It was a giant barracuda! With a big disappointing sigh I leaped into the water and unhooked her, swam her forwards to get some water through her gills as she cruised off giving me a wink! Why did we let her go? Barracuda’s are predators for most reef fish, so depending what the coral base is the reef fish live off ie copper you are essentially eating copper based coral, there is a nasty illness called cigateria poisoning which is common in large barracuda, and not worth taking the risk! (I’m talking from experience!!)

Greg

Today has been a bit of a chilled day, haven’t met with any civilisation. We just anchored in a bay where there was a bit of reef which wasn’t actually destroyed! Saw some pretty fish and coral! Ahh and a bit earlier to that, whilst fishing for food, we caught this mother of a barracuda! Was MASSIVE! But it had to be let go as it could have given us some illness due to it having high copper amounts.
Went browsing round some mangroves in search of deadly snakes- thought we had a “RIPPA”, but it turned out to be a lizard. Also made some pretty sweet home videos! Or just our personal interviews…!! And have set off this evening for our new destination, actually sailing!!! YESS PLEASE!

Kirstie
IM not really going to talk about what I done today just how I feel and how chester felt when he was on his trip and how it reflex on me I wish I was at home with my boyfriend I feel so sad to be a way from him every night I sleep on deck under the stars it is so nice to see such a wonderful site that u would not see back in the UK with every night that passes is on more day near home and I cant Wait to see my boyfriend again.

Nigel

Made an early start again. Stoped at Batubouga bay for lunch I made salmon fish cakes and veg stir fry, did some beach combing on a small island in the bay and collected some shell’s.
John

These long night watches give a chance of some unusual conversations. From Kirsty, I’ve been finding out about working in a Vet’s practice, something I knew absolutely nothing about. Gazing up at the stars with Greg, we were reflecting on the differences between the British astrophysicists (yes, honestly!) Stephen Hawking and Paul Davies. Both world-renowned thinkers about the origins of the universe, but Hawking confident that science has all the answers, or will have soon, while Davies has no problem in finding space for religious conviction in there with his belief in science. If two people of that calibre can’t agree, who are we to settle the question? But whatever your head tells you, it’s impossible to see the night sky in its splendour and not feel a sense of awe, wherever it comes from. And the occasional shooting star is just the icing on the cake.

Voyage Log 18th October

Position: At anchor off “Sea World”, North Flores
8 degrees 38.14 minutes South, 122 degrees 18.4 minutes East

Quote of the day- “Behold the turtle. He makes progress only when he sticks his neck out”

Greg

Have found the only thing that I don’t really enjoy doing… anchoring!! :s!!!!!!!!! Bloody heavy to lift in and out, and at 12am it’s not a lot of fun!!
However this afternoon, after anchoring off a resort we ventured into a small town for lunch. I had “meatballs” with soup. In actual fact those meatballs were dog’s testicles! But they were very nice.
Continued to wander around the town, came upon a fish market where dolphins were being chopped up… bit savage.
But getting back was sweet- hopped on the back of this random guy’s scooter and razzed it back to the resort. Always a laugh!
Sam

We’re sat in a bay anchored off of a small resort that’s completely deserted, eating aboard a good old English stew and listening to “Johnny Cash”. After a night sail the crew hung about for the day and relaxed in this deserted resort, walking the beach and lazing in the shade of an “Attap Kabanna”. (This means a wooden hut with coconut leaves as a roof)
Greg and I went into the local “passar” (local market) for some fresh supplies
Whilst we were out and about we found ourselves eating in a small roadside warong trying a whole array of different foods, after an enormous amount of food we could hardly stand, the total bill came to rp30,000 this is an equivalent to £2. Wow!

Kirstie
We set of at about midnight to make are way to Sea World we sailed through the night doing shift again we were doing 2 hours and 3 hours off we made it to Sea World at about 6 7 sea was a small resort which was really nice we did not do a lot when we got there we had a look round and did not do a lot after that just got a few rays while we could

Nigel left early spent the morning motoring between islands to arrive at Sea World dive club by lunch time had a easy aftenoon drinking made friut juice mangos papaya and pineapple also fresh mango ice cream

John

It’s amazing what you can find to amuse yourself when the lack of wind means motoring in a straight line for hours (when there aren’t any fishing boats to avoid, that is). Passing between 3 islands just after dawn, I managed to put a fix on the chart using no less than 5 position lines. Hope the RYA would approve. If nothing else, it confirmed the GPS was agreeing reasonably well with the paper chart (not always the case with some of the older charts in this part of the world).

On the trip here, I ran the water maker with a very clear purpose in mind. Getting clean is one of those luxuries you don’t realise is important until you don’t have it. While everyone else was ashore I took advantage of the relative privacy of Gipsy Moth IV’s deep cockpit to use a whole bucket of fresh water to wash the salt out of my hair, my self, and my clothes, in that order. The clothes haven’t come clean, but they do at least bend a bit now. Bliss.

Voyage Log 17th October

Position: At anchor off Tanjung Gedong, Eastern Flores
8 degrees 04 minutes South, 122 degrees 51 minutes East

Quote of the day- “Don’t go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first.” Mark Twain

Greg

When preparing to anchor this afternoon we needed to see how close we were to the reef, so I was needed to go up the mast and scout! ULTIMATE FUN! Plus the view was fantastic! Later that afternoon/evening we headed ashore to cook the fish we caught in the morning. While waiting for it, we spent time with some locals who gave us various nuts and fruits which were pretty good!
Also tried REAL coconut juice which was OK, a bit rancid but drinkable! The locals then showed us round their village which was really daint. All the people here are so lovely and friendly. TOTAL SUPERSTARS! One of the best evenings had so far!!

Sam

What a fabulous day! After the hustle and bustle of all the thriving villages I promised the group a nice quiet private secluded bay for a dip and a snorkel, as we pulled in to anchor there was not a sole in sight just the towering mountains and coconut trees lining the coral beaches. Within 15 min we were joined by 1 then another 2 dug out canoes (simpangs) we offered them a drink and I bought a set of home made goggles calved from wood with small round bits of cut glass mounted into the frame, absolutely chuffed I was! However with in the hour we were swamped by little local kids and there fathers trying our masks n fins and playing water polo with the crew, by the afternoon we must have had at least half the village out to play,(67 in the village) latter that evening we were invited ashore into there village. What a perfect end to a perfect day!

Kirstie

Left at about 6 am for are next stop which was going to be a reef so we could have a swim and see some of the wildlife on the way a fish man stop by us and told us where the best place was to stop. We saw the fisher’s line which he made himself it was made out of wire and foil He had a flying fish and a squid which he used as his bait.

Nigel

Left Torong about 6 am did not stop where we intended because the tide was to strong. We finally anchored in Tg Gedong Bay. We were joind by some locals in simpangs, the native dugout canoe. I was given a go in one first one with an outrigger and then one without (very unstable). We then spent the rest of afternoon playing water polo with the local children and snorkelling on the reef.

John

A day which started in a busy town and ended in a tiny village. In both, I was interested to find Muslim and Christian communities living side by side, which seems to be the pattern everywhere we have visited so far. We were the first Europeans many of the villagers had seen, and they delighted in showing us how to get coconut milk, light fires (they use a cigarette end!), roast seeds, grill fish on the beach. I tried a lot of new things today; climbed a coconut palm, paddled a dugout ashore, inspected a boat being built. They caulk with coconut fibre, using a hand-carved tool to force it between the planks. Politeness made me drink coconut milk (they call it water), which tastes a bit like Epsom Salts and is, I’m sure, mildly alcoholic.
Imagine how much fun I’ve had saying “I have 3 grandchildren” – “Saya punya tiga cucu” – especially since cucu is pronounced “choo choo”!

Daily Log 15th October
Kupang Anchorage 10 deg 9.5 min South, 123 deg 4.6 min East

Quote of the day- “Experience is not what happens to you; it is what you do with what happens to you.”

Greg

Arrived in Bali to a not so welcoming harsh, humid heat which has taken a while to get used to, but all’s good now! First thing that really struck me was how friendly and willing to help the Balinese are- complete legends!!
Also, when wandering around town, the 90% off at quicksilver instantly caught my eye, and will definitely have to be further investigated upon return! But all in all, a really stunning place!!

Sam

Back on board the good ship Gipsy Moth IV; firstly, what a remarkable job they have done on the refit in Oz, you wouldn’t know anything had happened! I Kind f hoped they may have left the computer back on the reef, but NO!!
We all went out for a meal in a local Warong last night to try some local dishes. The food tastes fantastic, and we also learned that the Samble (spicy chilli sauce) is disguised in ketchup bottles! OWCH!

Kirstie

We went to the fish market so we could by some fish for are tea when we got there it was busy people and fish every wear we got 2 fish one was a red snapper and the other was sort of like tuna later on we went to the veg market wear there all kinds of veg I had never seen before we had to bangin to get the best offers we brought a lot of food in the place we stated women are not a loud to show there shoulders and two women came up to me and pinched me .

John

Went aboard Blue Water Rally colleague “TZIGANE” this morning - the only other yacht left in Kupang - to discuss sailing plans for the next few days. Managed to drink 2 cups of their real coffee, the first for weeks. Gipsy Moth IV crew experienced the delights of travelling by “Bemo” minibus, with loudspeakers under the seats and over-exuberant ticket collectors hanging on the outside. Enjoyed rice, noodle and fish breakfast at the ‘pasar’ (market), but looking forward most of all to the open sea.

Nigel

Went shopping for supplies at the fish/ food market and shopping centre in Kupang before setting off.
We were going to put a new alternator on the engine, but found it was only a broken wire on the old one. So did not need to replace it. Finally set off at about midday.

Voyage Log 16th October

Position: At anchor off Larantuka, Eastern Flores
8 degrees 20.2 minutes South, 122 degrees 59.6 minutes East

Quote of the day- “Anybody know where the book of Quotations has got to?”

Greg

Started my first night watch at half past twelve this morning- woke up easily and the watch wasn’t at all bad! Had some music to keep me awake, plus John and I were looking at all the stars. Saw LOADS of shooting stars which were immense! After finishing my shift at half past three, I then proceeded to wake up at seven to see that we were surrounded by beautiful islands in the distance. Awesome views! And the perfect wake up call!

Sam

Another day at the office! It’s fab to actually get a bit of unexpected wind today, about 15 knots, this lasted for a good couple of hours. After playing on race boats all season I find myself looking up and down the boat trying to figure out why she won’t point upwind! Is it me!! Or is it the fact it’s not got a Kicker and the boom lifts with every gust causing the main to twist off and spill air, also the two forestays are as bent as a banana due to slack or stretched cable not too mention the keel…. Oh and she isn’t carbon!!. Chichester used to call her “It” as his frustration with the boat grew he did not think “she” was appropriate!

Kirstie

Wake up early as I was on watch when we got to are place of stop we drop anchor and made way to land all the local kids can out to help us we took all the empty fuel can with us some of the locals went to get are fuel for us one of the locals showed us round his village as I had really brunt feet he went of and me some aloe so I could put it on my feet as it will take the swelling down.

Nigel

Sent most of today motor sailing. Stopped at island village of Trong on Adunara for diesel at lunchtime. There was then enough wind to try the spinnaker on way to next stop for the night at Larantuka village.

John

These notes read as if nobody noticed skipper and mate tinkering with the electrical systems through the small hours, not least his wriggling into a tiny cupboard in pitch darkness to investigate the batteries. They obviously didn’t notice the ingenious use of Blu-Tack on the end of a bread knife, either – but if they slept through it all, so much the better for their peace of mind.
It was my turn for chores today, so it was great to benefit from Sam’s knowledge of Indonesian to find a place ashore to eat – no cooking or washing up to do. Larantuka is not even vaguely a tourist spot, and 5 Europeans provoke great curiosity, but it is (nearly) all totally good natured. “Hey Mister!” is as common here as “No Worries” was in Darwin. I’m sure the lean-to ‘restaurant’ where we enjoyed rice, fish, spinach, chicken, and some brown stuff (?) must have doubled its takings this evening as people dropped in just to try out their English on the foreign visitors.