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Galle

Tim Magee – The last day. We managed to put the last finishing touches to some tlc for GM this morning. With that out the way we tried to make the most of the little time left. A tour round the fort, a spot of lunch and then hired some surf boards. Steve was the only one who had surfed before , but it was a great afternoon rounded off with tea and cake on the beach which was a pleasant ad lib surprise. The last supper was a quiet affair as everyone had to ready for the taxi at 1am! I have another day here to handover to John who is arriving later on today with the rest of the new crew. Unbelievable how quickly my time on the boat has gone so fast. It will be a real shame to get off!


Steve Routledge

Steve forgot to do his blog before he left. He did appear to be having a great time surfing earlier on in the day and left with a big smile on his face!


Shannon McWilliam

“Goodbye my lover, goodbye my friend”. She will be more than missed and fmore than fondly remembered. Servicing winches this morning and finishing up odd jobs, boat is now sorted. We toured the fort and surounding area with some more than helpful guides. The town certainly has a great and long history with many nations each having a bash. We went round a wonderful museum with so much history inside such a small building, I was surprised at how interested I had become. Back to the boat after a spot of lunch to refill the diesel and then back out for some surf. I’ve never surfed before but more than enjoyed it. The locals were wonderful and so welcoming. Then showers and dinner. Were all packed now and going to get some sleep on deck before we leave at 1am to get to the airport for our 8oclock flight. Glad to be flying back to Edinburgh instead of Glasgow as there’s nothing like coming home to work! So once again “Goodbye my friend”.


Richard Talbot
An excellent day was had by all. It started with a brief spell of work onboard, making the finishing touches before the hand over. After this we headed to the fort in Galle – driven by some great Srilankan chaps. I love the way of life over here. Its seems so stress free and relaxed. I am sure this is not always the case, but today it appeared that way. We visited various spectacularly build hotels, museums and churches. After a good lunch (mixed veg curry and rice) we nipped back to the boat to re-fuel, and then off to find a suitable surf beach. We hired some boards, headed along the coast and came across one which was tucked away behind some huts. The occupants were slicing up palm trees and making long planks from them using only very primitive tools. After the surf they invited us for tea and cake which was all very civilised; just a great, friendly type of people. I have just this minute come in from another cracking meal at the local hotel (pawn curry and rice, yesterdays was chicken curry) and am about to get a few hours sleep before we set off at 0100 for the flight home. It was nice meeting you Gipsy.

Steve Chipperfield
My back-up pair of glasses has just collapsed ina heap so you’ll need to accept this with whatever errors you find. Up with the parakeet to some early maintenance work then into Galle t6o wander sround a truly fascinating little chunk of history. What truly impresses about the Singhalese is their phlegmatic acceptance of a history of colonisation from the Portuguese, then the Dutch, then the English and recognising some value derived from each occupation despite whatever the negatives they undoubtedly experienced. They are polite, hospitable people who seem brave and dignified in the aftermath of the terribleimpact the Tsunami had on all their lives just two years agoi. Surfing in the afternoon was made a special experience thanks to an invitation to (very British) tea and cake at a little house on the beach with a local famly. Wonderful!

Galle



Tim Magee - Into Galle today, always a good feeling to make landfall but tinged with wanting to spend more time sailing on the boat. Had a wonderful sail from Thailand, a very warm welcome and although a lengthy clearing in period have got lots of cleaning done and are doing the shower runs ready for the first beer and meal ashore. Always a good one.

Shannon McWilliam

Was nice to come onto my 3-6 watch this morning as I had my first look at the coast we’d been heading for over the last 6 days. I am very pleased with the progress we made as I heard a german fellow remerking that they would be pulling out all the stops in order to make 6 days. We cruised and still made good time! Woo Hoo and mini wave for us. We had a swim and cleaned the water line on the boat as we waited for the Sri Lankanish navy, who were very nice. One of the guys on the boat spotted my nipple bar and called for their friends on the radio so I had two boats staring at me and laughing because apparently only girls had pierced nipples here . Once we had paid the extortionate docking fees we were cleaning. Take it apart, clean it and put it back together. Twas good. Just had my first shower in 6 days and am writing cds for everyone to take home. Off for a drink (Yay!) and a meal tonight. Tommorow some cleaning in the am with a 530 start and then some sights. Very early night as we fly out on the 18 am.

Steven Routledge
The relief I had when coming onto my 0000- 0300 knowing I didn’t have to perform mothering duties again was topped off with the fact that I could see land (well the lights anyway). My day continued to improve as I woke to the vision of the coast and what I believed to be breaking waves (going to try hard to check them out). Once the navy had boarded us (and no before you starting thinking things not that type of search was performed) we washed the water line then proceeded to our mooring berth. Finished off cleaning the boat top to bottom port to starboard forward to aft and to celebrate we are all going to have a cold beer and a good wash ourselves.


Richard Talbot
Here at last! Six days of sailing and finally in Srilanka. I feel very privileged to be on the watch that sighted land – 2318, 15th Jan. I also had to pilot us into the Srilankan harbour, which was good fun. The wait for the navy was a little tedious as we had travelled so far and were inches within solid soil but had to sit for about two hours watching and waiting. The time was productively used though and we scrubbed the water line. Very refreshing. Once in and through customs we worked hard on the boat to make it ship shape for the next crew. Logging all the food left behind and antibacing all the cubby holes. Dull but ever so necessary. The waters around these parts are teeeming with fish. They were literally jumping as we headed in. also the water line has various stray dogs scavenging for food. Most are of a mixed breed, but I have spotted a few jack russels. I have returned from a nice shower in the naval base that we are residing in. I believ that we are headed out for food and a cold beer soon with the crew frokmm the boat sas-something K. I expect it to be a livly affair as both are over sixty and husband a wife!


Steve Chipperfield
A very easy end to a fast and occasionally demanding passage as the sea and wind eased as we, in turn, followed around the south of the island into more sheltered waters. The white dome of a mosque greeted us at Galle as well as the twin spires of an eighteenth century (guessing here) Dutch church. We anchored off the breakwater to wait (and wait and wait) the arrival of the Sri Lankan navy to allow us access at this politically sensitive time (code for scary and worried about the Tamils). The people here are friendly and helpful and, of course, after any business than can get – and who can blame them after the Tsunami wrecked their lives? Tomorrow we’ll be completing the Big Clean Up and Problem Solving on GM before a trip into Gallle and onward to check out the surf with expert instruction from our very own Steve Routledge. Not much more than 24 hours from now we’ll be headed for the airport and home.

2300LT
N5 48 E81 05‘
NNE 4
DTG 50
Eta Galle 0800LT



Tim Magee – The cooker seems to be a saga all to itself this trip, but thankfully it is all minor niggles now that it has got it’s main part. Wind picked up as we started toclose the coast today. Just sailed most of the day with a fore and aft which has worked out a treat and still given us some nice speeds with a strong favourable current. A bit of shipping to spice up the night and then a morning pilotage into galle, clear customs and immigration, and have a damn good clean up. It sounds so easy, I hope it works out that way!


Steven Routledge

Yet an other very long day which still has yet to finish. So far I have been busy doing mother duties mainly cleaning but also some food prepping, still got to do dinner as well and I have been having trouble deciding what to make, final decision is mash with pasta strange combo I know but I’m limited with food supplies. Whilst on watch I have been having to keep a sharp look out for big ships as we our somewhere between two shipping channels or so I believe not really been told much cant say I have really asked either though. Today been so ruff was the first time skipper ordered to wear life jackets during light time hours plus we been sailing without the main sail hoisted and still doing 9 knots!
It been so bad that I managed to fall across the galley into skippers bunk without touching the or sides. Writing this hasn’t been much fun either god knows how dinner is going to go.

Steve Chipperfield
As I start to write, Skip’s head emerges from beneath our benighted Finnish cooker and he announces that appeasement is over and war is to be declared if it commits just one more misdemeanour. Given that it has delayed us by a week, tried to starve us by withdrawing services even after expensive new parts were fitted, attempted to murder us in the night with its fumes and to terrorise us with its ghostly moaning noises, I would have to say: don’t be too optimistic about threats or anything else working. This stove is a recidivist, it’s psychopathic and it doesn’t care who it hurts. It just wants smelly, cold, noisy fun and lots of blinking error lights. Me – I’m sleeping with a large wrench under my pillow.

Meanwhile… fast progress continues under mizzen and No 2 with a brisk breeze driving us to a morning landfall after maybe 6 ½ days. That cold beer is looking good…

Shannon McWilliam

Just off the 6-9pm watch and I’m soaking! It’s so much fun though when you hit a wave and it comes crashing through the4 cockpit. I think it has a lot to do with the fact that were getting closer to Galle now, yay! Spent most of the day sleeping as I found the heat on deck unbearable. Beautiful weather, absolutely beautiful. Very much looking forward to getting a full 9-6 sleep. Weve got a fantastic wind sending us flying into Sri Lanka at a fantastic pace. So here’s to a good last push! *Raises Oreo*


Richard Talbot
Here, here to that Shannon. Its very busy at the moment now that we are approaching the finishing line, as there is a great increase in the amount of shipping. We have to be steady with the course and always keep an eye out for other boats. Soon we are going to have to start slowing down so that we won’t have to anchor up outside the harbour. This is due to the Srilankan security only letting craft through between 0800 – 2000 each day, and our predicted arrival at current pace is about 0500 – 0600. The meal tonight was interesting to say the least – spaghetti in tomato sauce (tinned) with instant mashed potato. Mix that up with cooking on board and you will have a good idea of the result! (No it wasn’t really that bad). Today has been very very hot with strong winds so lots of suncream needed. I felt extremely tired this afternoon and think its all started to catch me up. A good few nights rest on land will sort me out. Looking forward to seeing the family and dog again, as well as all my lovely vet friends back at Bristol Uni!

2200LT
N6 20 E84 34
NNE 4
DTG 260NM
ETA to Galle approx lunchtime on 16th jan



Tim Magee – Well it looks like we are on schedule to arrive in Galle about lunchtime on the 16th. The wind seems to be holding nicely and has even backed a little to give us a nice angle to Dondra Point, the southern most tip of Sri Lanka. Sighted Saiorse K today, one of the few Rally boats still making passage. Nice to see a bit more traffic today, it’s almost gridlock out ere’.


Steve Chipperfield
There’s an air of anticipation about Gipsy Moth as we close towards Sri Lanka. We still have some 300 miles to Galle but, with runs of around 200 miles a day of late, we’ll be there in less than two days if winds keep up. Another Blue Water yacht, Saiorse K, has been visible most of the day and we have chatted on SSB and VHF. Other sightings include a long tailed, parakeet-like bird that attempted to land on our masthead, a tanker and two or three fishing vessels so, after seeing little or nothing during the first two thirds of the crossing, this counts as quite busy and exciting. The crew are starting to tart themselves up for action ashore, with boil-in-the-bag showers on deck and much discussion about the pleasures that might be awaiting us!

Shannon McWilliam

Today. today, today, what have we been up to? Well. . weve spotted our friend from the blue water rally and he is now sailing along nicely behind us, hehe! Got some interviews from the guys about estimated times of arrival so the bets are in. The day is drawing closer and were all looking forward to that little something that makes life on land extra nice, a warm shower will do me for the time being. The weather has been fantasmical and I believe 5 more minutes in the sun would have been too much. The guys all had showers which gave the cockpit a good clean out. Now I’m looking forward to a crackin last few days sail. Och Aye The Noo Laddie!!!


Richard Talbot
Another stinking hot day dawned, and remained so until we all had a shower in the afternoon. Joy of joys – clean at last. I was beginning to think that there was something nesting in my hair, yet thankfully it transpired to the contrary. We have made slightly slower progress today as the wind slacked somewhat, yet it changed a little in direction so we are able to sail lower, which is good. The big news of the day was spotting Saoirse K, another yacht on the Blue Water Rally. She was sighted around 1730 off the port mid-ship. We had been catching her up steadily over the last few days, and were wondering whether we had passed too far away to see her, but there she was. I was on mothering duty today but a slice of good fortune came my way in the form of Steve C decided he wanted to cook dinner. Very pleasing indeed since I am sure it will be very tasty. I also discovered that my bunk leaks slightly. I was beginning to think that maybe I was just a very sweaty boy, but I finally picked out the leak – so good and bad news on that front. I think we are all looking forward to stepping on Srilankan soil – roughing it is all very well but I do enjoy my creature comforts!


Steven Routledge
Today started off as every other, clear the deck of the kamikaze fly fish an impressive 10! Been fairly easy day to day after finding out that we are now only 2 days away from Sri Lanka, which has kind of comforted me and excited me as we have got two days of staying there I’m hoping to show the crew some waves. My main duty for today was collecting ocean samples and other then that not much has happened, sighted a big ship and an other sailing vessel taking part in the blue water rally who happen to be 3 miles off our stern. Not much else to say other then happy 50th wedding anniversary to my grand parents hope you have gad a great time hope I got the right day as well. Last day of my mother duties tomorrow big smiles!

2350 LT
Position N6 47 E87 20
Wind NE 3
Swell Moderate
DTG Approx 440

Tim Magee – Thinking of making crash helmets and goggles part of the night safety equipment as the barrage of flying fish attacks intensify. They don’t stand a hope! Continuing with some amazing sailing with our best 12 hour run yet, we seem to be eating up the miles to Sri Lanka. Raised a toast to Jim today, and a nice sundowner was had by all. Thoughts starting to return to life back home as a week today that’s where I’ll be. Still having a whale of a time!

Steve Chipperfield
We all got pretty wet and cold on watch last night as a couple of lows decided to party with us and deposit vast quantities of rain and a little extra wind. It was miserable for some time but (as they say in the best stories) another day dawned and we eventually found ourselves with more sunshine, some squid and flying fish on deck and – best of all - a 12 hour run of 105 miles. We’ve cracked on fast all day in excellent tradewind conditions. Our arms have got a little longer from the helming, but we’re making fast progress with well under 500 miles to go.


Richard Talbot
My watch last night went really well. I am feeling that I am gradually getting used to the way the boat moves and responds, and am therefore growing in confidence. My bunk remains as uncomfortable as ever, partly due to the fact that I don’t have a proper pillow to support my head when she rocks back and forth – something that happens a great deal in the 2 metre plus swell we are getting. A squall hit last night when Tim and myself were on watch and then extremely heavy rain fell for a good 2 or more hours. Am getting a bit of revision done, but obviously not as much as I would like. The heat during the day, coupled with the tiredness and jobs around the boat makes it hard work to do much. Sighted another vessel today – Indian fishing boat. We exchanged waves which was nice. To finish off with in the words of Tim, “the flying fish attacks are increasing in their vigour”

Shannon McWilliam

I am getting used to the yacht now as Richie poo is, she certainly has style. Starting to feel slightly at home but that’s not to say I’m not missing land. I feel like I’m, doing myself some good and I’m sure it’ll pay off back home. Thoughts are turning to land now as we get closer I’m sure we will stay emerged in the world of Gipsy Moth for a while yet. The flying fish are more than used to us now and are not too shy when it comes to saying hello with a smack in the face! Finished off the day with a toast to friends who cannot be with us. Cheers.

Steven Routledge
Seems like these flying fish have something against us being in their waters. I had one try strangling me the other day and this morning had an other hit me in the arm. The day hasn’t been to bad actually cant say it has been bad at all to be honest all good news really. Found out we are halfway there to Sri Lanka which means with all good weather and sea, (touching wood) we should be on dry land in 3 more days. Shame is though we might not be able to fly back till the 20th, which means a couple of days in a hotel oh dear! “sense the sarcasm”. I’m starting to realise just how hard life is for some people, mainly single parents or those looking after 4 other members, as mother duties seem to be getting harder and harder each time. Earlier today I experienced what it must have been like for Sir Francis Chichester, sat at the helm the other crew members below for some reason or an other, I felt as if I was on my own nothing but the memories of home and friends to keep me entertained. Just for you Pastey if your reading this, fire poi butterfly wing sequence held in the mouth whilst using diabolo. To end the day we had a toast to friends, family and loved ones that can not be with us good sailing guys!

2200 LT
Position – N7 17 E90 55
Wind – NNE 4
Sea State – Moderate
DTG – Approx 660nm



Tim Magee – The sailing is continuing to be very enjoyable. I think we have been very lucky with the wind speeds and direction at the moment as the boat us still flying along. Cloud cover has limited us to very little by way of the sextant unfortunately but we still have a few days yet. Passed behind a chinese freighter in the afternoon which certainly helps to make up for the continuous blue of the sea. The guys are just starting to settle into the watch system, the tired eyes of the first few nights are adjusting to the new sleep pattern. They are helming really well, even noted by a flying fish who ssid hello unceremoniously last night!

Steve Chipperfield
We threaded our way through the Nicobars last night and found ourselves in more moderate seas this morning, making fast passage on the western side of the islands. Presumably there is something of a build-up of wave fetch and ocean current that is impeded by the islands and so builds the sea sate. It’s been overcast most of the day, preventing us from taking sun sights for almost two days now. We’ve had wonderful sailing conditions today, averaging 7 – 8 knots in fast reaching conditions that really seem to suit Gipsy Moth; this culminated in a burst of 11.4 knots half an hour ago in a small, intense low that also dumped a prodigious amount of rain on us. Right, back to my watch with Shannon, who’s all alone up- there in the dark…

Shannon McWilliam

Spent most of the day between meals and oceanographics asleep and think I have beaten sea sickness!!! Plenty of flying fish and some small black birds as well, not to sure what they are though. One lone tanker was the big sight of the day. The black cloud that was following us earlier circled us and rained specifically for us. It got so dark so fast, it was weird. Now that the seasickness has passed I’m enjoying myself more although I’m sure it’ll be a different story tomorrow morning after the 3-6 shift.


Steven Routledge
Today started off with a surprise, I was sat on watch at 0500 just minding my own business looking out for boats and land etc, when out off the deep blue water this flying fish for no reason what so ever attacked me went straight for my throat. There was a bit of a struggle but I came out on top although being a kind person I let it go back to the wild. That was about all the excitement for the day until we came within half a mile or so off a big ocean ship, which we took pic off. Otherwise can’t say anything all that interesting happened


Richard Talbot
Better day today regarding the mouth situation, and another fine days sailing – I believe the maximum speed was around 10.4 knots. Not bad for a “bus”. We passed very close to a tanker, which made up for not sighting the nicobar Islands. A few hours ago a fairly large squall hit and we were surrounded by big black clouds and heavy rain. It has just started up again actually. The seas are quite rough too and the boat is really rolling around. I don’t like the sense of not using your bodyweight to steer the boat such as in a laser. Funny moment last night when Jesus got hit in the throat by a flying fish!

2300 LT
Position – N7 30.4 E93 42.9
Wind NE 5
Sea State - Moderate


Tim Magee – Glorious sailing today. We have crtainly found a point of sail Gipsy Moth likes! Top speed of 9.75 knots so far with a nice NE 5 just aft of the beam. Had a little excursion up the mast to have a look at the steaming light , a nice shower in a squall and we are presently rounding the northern end of Little Nicobar through the Sombrero channel. A great day.


Steven Routledge
Today wasn’t to bad most of the time we have been under sail power and travelling on average at bout 6 knots. I have mainly been collecting ocean samples today so nothing to interesting to say really over then just before I came off watch we had a pod of dolphins swim no more then 2 meters or our port side which was pretty cool to watch them playing and jumping. I’m really tired so I’m off to bed now sorry it only short.

Richard Talbot
Just a short one today as am shattered. Great breezes and downwind sailing. Mouth killing me due to ulcers. Was mother so made lunch and tea etc, which was nigh on impossible in this weather. Enjoying it though and we will be passing the nicobars soon so fingers crossed.

Steve Chipperfield
We’re about ten miles off the Sombrero Channel through the Nicobar Islands and sailing fast - up to 10 knots. The islands are in almost complete darkness and so is the surrounding sea apart from white crests and the odd burst of phosphoresence. Shannon is on the helm.coping well with the constant haul on the tiller in big seas. Richard has cooked a good pasta and retired to his bunk, exhausted, I think, from the washing up that followed at 30 degrees. Must go – I’m on watch and the islands are fast approaching.

Shannon McWilliam

Some good wind today and some awesome weather sun wise too. Nice shower on a mini squall and a spot of fishing. I’m sea sick, Bleugh.

N7 56.6 E96 34.9
Wind – NNE3
Swell – Moderate


Tim Magee – Very nice to be on passage and the weather seems to be holding up nicely although it was hot day above and below decks. The cushion donated by Chris Smithers is getting some fine use in the cockpit. Thank You! Slowly but surely getting into the swing of things again with everyone sailing the boat nicely!

Richard Talbot
On watch again at the moment and am glad I did not have to do it at midday – it was absolutely boiling – suffocatingly hot. We have had our first day without sighting land, and I am really loving it. Seen lots of flying fish which intrigued me no end. It is hard to believe that they can fly and skip off the waves for over 100 metres. One watch duty a pod of dolphins were sighted, but unfortunately I was down below revising. Not that I cam take much in. my duties today were oceanographer – sampling the temp., salinity, chlorophyll, etc of the water and also recording the weather conditions. Dinner is on the go and I must get back on the helm, so signing off for the day.


Shannon McWilliam

Today was a slightly trying day for me. I’m slowly adjusting to life and I think I’m starting to feel better. The sky has been beautiful and I’m sure I must have got something of a tan. I was mother today cooking, cleaning and looking purdy. Spotted my first pod of dolphin earlier but they were too fast for my camera, maybe some pink ones next time. Just cooking dinner now and to sleep before my watch at 12.

Steve Chipperfield
It’s 20,20, we’ve completed our first 24 hours – not a great run, with generally light winds – but we’re on our way with the miles steadily passing beneath the keel. My watch between 10 and 1400 today reminded me of those films were some miscreant ina Spanish prison yard is left to endure the fierce heat with no protection, just insults from the warders. OIK, there are no ward4ers, but you’ll get the idea: it was searingly hot and all I could focus on was getting below at the earliest opportunity. Maybe that’s why my noon sunsight was a little wide oif the mark. Try again tomorrow….

Steven Routledge
Today started early fore me as I was on watch at 0000- 0300.been under sail for most of it but had to put the engine on now and then, once to recharge the battery and once because there wasn’t enough wind. Also today was ridiculously hot got a nice tan line from my gloves within being in the sun for 4 hours. Today’s going to finish late for me as well as I’m going to be on watch from 2100- 0000 at least ill get to see sunset and rise all in one day.

Position 2325LT – N7 52.2 E98 27.6

Wind – NE 4

Sea State - Moderate



Tim Magee – Lovely sail back from Phi Phi yesterday, the finest of the trip so far. More maintenance on the old girl before going through the clearing out process in Ao Chalong today. Part Arrived for the cooker, and with a bit of a tempermental side provided everyone with their first hot meal cooked on board. Bonus. Presently just cleared the bottom end of Phuket under sail and Sri Lanka beckons. Can’t say enough thank you’s to all the people who have helped us out the last few weeks, Thailand will be missed. Doing over 6.5 kts at the moment on a broad reach, very excited about the sailing ahead.-


Shannon McWilliam

Yesterday was a glorious day weather and wind wise. We managed to actually sail back from Phi Phi Don as apossed to motoring. I finally got to experience that legendary 30 degree heel the yacht has. She was certainly in her element, it was wonderful to see. We made good time on the way back to the yacht Haven where we packed away the dinghy and worked a bit on various bits and pieces of cleaning and maintenance. We had a nice last meal at Mammas alongside some pool and mentally preparing ourselves for the joyous passage. Everyone was very anxious about the part for the cooker to arrive. It was a good last night in Thailand.

This morning we went down to Chalong to clear out with immigration and customs, I’m pleased to say everything went swimmingly. Last minute jobs on the boat to prepare her for the passage. We also had the inverter fitted today in case of plan B (Microwave). The part for the cooker came through at lunch time and that was fitted all ok but the cooker was still a bit wonky so for peace of mind we went for plan B aswell. Hopefully we won’t need it but you never know. So. . .We Are Sailing, We Are Sailing, Hey Hey Hey, Na Na Na!! We were off at 8 ish and are now under way. Everyone’s really enthusiastic about the passage and there’s a good vibe about the old girl now. I’m really pleased to be on route now and I have never seen so many stars in my life. We also caught our first fish!

Richard Talbot
Yesterday saw our return from phi phi don. Glorious sunshine and about 20 kts of breeze – the perfect sailing conditions in my book. Once back to the mariner I scrubbed the floor which was fantastic and we all worked on the boat. I got sunburnt for the first time as well yesterday – the wind disguised how hot it really was, so there it is burnt on the shoulders. We spent the evening playing pool (I think I am improving) and went fore a meal at Mammas and Pappas. I opted for the fishcakes which were ok, but have a mouth full of ulcers at the moment so it was hard to eat. Shannon made a friend in the form of a lovely girl called Rebecca from Sheffield. She has been travelling the world for goodness knows how long. Good day in all.
Today we were woken at 0630 so that we could be ready for the off at 0730 to check out at Chalong. We arrived at about 0845 in the hire car only to find it opened at 1000! What a drag! Jesus and I went for a wander in town and I purchased some extra sustenance from a German style bakery. Once back at the mariner we made the final preps and set of at 1845 or there about. At the mo I am on watch with Tim and there are 20 minutes until tomorrow!

Steven Routledge
Yesterday was a day to kinda settle down and get ready for the big trip. We managed to sail back from Phi Phi Don with some good weather as well so all wasn’t too bad. Once we got back we all had our little jobs to do. Mine was cleaning the tender engine and running it dry off fuel, also fitting a new shackle to one of the halyards then sewing a whipping on it, which is a new talent of mine if I don’t mind saying so. For dinner we ate at mammas and pappas where I tried some fried squid and I must say was very nice. To finish the day we played our last games of pool and said our goodbyes to the locals that we had got to know over the last few days.

Today I was woken up at 0630, which to be honest wasn’t that much fun especially when it was to get into a hot and humid car to drive an hour to Charlong so that we could leave the country. We got there to find out we had to wait around an other hour till it opened. So with 140 bhat Richard and I went for a walk to find some snacks for the 8-10 days at sea we got ahead. We decided to go for some chew sweets which proberly isn’t the best thing to buy haha. Once we had passed customs we went for the final shop yet again at Tesco. Once the shopping was done we headed back to yacht haven to do some more jobs on the boat. Having fixed the cooker we set sail at bout 1900 rite now it happens to 0100 in the morning on the 10tr and I’m on watch after Richard got me up sent me back to bed thinking he got it wrong then woke me up yet again.


STEVE CHIPPERFIELD
3am Wednesday. We’re at sea (at last), pointing in the right direction and it’s a fine, balmy night. The beam wind has eased off and we’re currently struggling to make 5 knots but the great thing I have already observed about Gipsy Moth is that, as soon as she’s given the encouragement of a few knots more breeze, she’ll pick up her skirts and go – as she did yesterday on a wonderfuyl cxlose reach back from the islands. Now then…what have I been missing this last week? A cup of tea maybe?.

Ko Phi Phi Don

N7 43.8 E98 46.3

Tim Magee – Unseasonal weather today, didn’t really stop drizzling all day. Wasn’t conducive form any electrical drops on deck so myself and steve went climbing in the afternoon whilst the others got a longtail ride to see more of the delights the Phi Phi islands have to offer. Good day all round.


Shannon McWilliam

Today we hired a long boat with a driver called Ali. He took us all around the island and also down to Phi Phi Lai. The snorkelling was fantastic, I’ve never seen anything like it. The sea snakes were kool but the dolphins had them beat. We went to monkey beach and tried to get a photo of our monkey with them but they were scared out of there wits by him so we have some sneaky background shots instead, they were quite used to tourists and surprisingly fat! We visited the beach where the movie “The Beach” was filmed. It wasn’t quite a pretty because the weather was downcast but it was still a sight. Cliff diving was the perfect way to end the tour; it was fun but unbelievable scary. We met up with skip and Steve on land for a meal on the beach front before some drinks and a bit of Thai boxing. Each day just keeps getting better.

Steve Chipperfield
A grey, drizzling day at KoPhi Phi yesterday, although warm. Skip and I spent the morning catching up on board then went rock climbing in the afternoon. We climbed with a very good team –Arnaúd, a Frenchman, and Bok, a Thai – as well as with another Frenchman and a Swede, so we were quite an international bunch. The climbing, on limestone with quite a few overhangs, was challenging at times and we all came back feeling we had had a good work-out. The views across the anchorages from the top of the pitches were spectacular.


Richard Talbot
We woke at 7 today and were picked up by a Thai guy called Ali, who was our designated long tail driver for the day. We explored Phi Phi Don first and under his watchful eye snorkelled some of the nearby reefs. Also on Phi Phi Don were some great coves, caves (Viking cave was the most famous I believe) and bays. During one of our many snorkelling bouts, I spotted a stone fish doing what it does best, and dragged shanny over for a look (he had just passed feet away from this thing). Then we both spotted a sea snake – about a foot long, thin and black with yellow stripes. I followed it for a time and it dived up for air and then went back down to the coral. I thing this was spotted on the neighbouring island of Phi Phi Lai, where “the beach” was filmed. One of the many highlights of the day was the cliff jumping. Ali took us to his spot and we climbed one of the paths to the cliffs from the sea. The jump itself only lasted a few seconds but when I was stood at the top it looked an incredibly long way down. The only downer on the tip was that it rained consistently all day. Oh yes, Thai boxing in the evening.

Steven Routledge
Today started off with us going on a boat trip over to Phi Phi Lai, which is the island the film “The Beach” was located on. It all started of with Shannon, Richard and myself all going snorkelling around a reef just a small distance from where we are anchored. I saw loads of bright colourful fish and I even found Nemo! Also I swam with a small black tipped shark. Once we had finished and managed to get the perfect Kodak picture and saw a pod of dolphins, we went over towards Phi Phi Lai and stopped off around some of the bays and the hongs around the island. We walked around the beach which was in the film stopped at monkey beach where guess what there were some monkeys who, surprise surprise were a little over weight might have been Pepsi the tourists gave them but I’m not sure. Went a couple of more times snorkelling and finished the trip off with some cliff jump must have been bout 20-30ft I think. When we got back to land Shannon Rich and I went around the town bought some tourist gifts then went to an Irish pub. After we had met up with Tim and Steve we went and got some dinner, after which we went to a reggae bar, which was one of the place where many survived the 2004 tsunami. We watched some Thai boxing well, I say Thai the first few fights we guys from the crowd try to prove some thing to the spectators I don’t know maybe they were just new to the sport. Anyway once the amateurs had finished the real boxing began which was very impressive.

Ko Phi Phi Don

N7 53.8 E098 46.3

Wind – Var 1

Tim Magee – Nice to get away from the yacht haven and see some other things. Brad, you would be proud, I tried marmite. Enough said about that! Nice swim after a hot day with little wind and then a wander round the town here at Phi Phi Don. A couple more days and we should be on our way to sri lanka. Looking forward to it.


Shannon Mcwilliam

We were going places today! Glad to have a little sailing action even if there wasn’t any wind. We sailed/motored to Phi Phi island where we went for a refreshing dip (straight off the side of the boat) and then cleaned the hull. Were just back now from a good meal and a fantastic fire show. I have never seen anything like it before; it will defiantly be something I will never forget. We’re anchored quarter of a mile off shore and I can still hear the tunes, it’s awesome. The reality of what I’m doing and where I am really hit me tonight. Sitting on a beach watching fire spinners in the middle of some island on the other side of the world. I am loving it!


Richard Talbot
An early start today - and most unwanted as I was feeling slightly ginger due to the previous evening’s antics. We set sail for the island of Phi Phi Don which is about 60 miles south-east of the mariner. We arrived at around 1500 after motoring all the way due to incredibly light winds and scrubbed the boat off. After finishing the odd jobs that needed doing we went for a cooling beer and watched some footie – Birmingham Vs. Newcastle. 1:1 at half time. The highlight of the day followed with a pretty spectacular fire show at Hippies Bar. Now back on board and going to get a good nights rest in preparation for tomorrows long tail ride.


Steven Routledge
Today we set sail well sort of, we had our sails up but we had the engine running as well. We cruised about 60 mile to Phi Phi Don an not to far from where the film beach was made. Absolutely gorgeous clear blue water white sands green trees. We spent the evening walking round looking at the tourist shops and bars before getting some food for dinner. Once we had finished dinner we went to a bar where we hoped to watch sum Thai boxing, unfortunately it didn’t start before we left to watch the fire show which had to be the best part of the night. Fire poi, fire staf but no fire diabolo or fire breathing which was a bit of a shame but still was amazing to watch some fellow fire fans showing their talent and being able to pick up some moves from them. Also tonight has made me realise who and what I miss most and I cant wait to get back and see them. Mail me guys look forward to reading any questions scoobydoo_519@hotmail.co.uk

Steve Chipperfield
Good to get out on the water again yesterday; I’m keen to get going on passage but at least this was a small substitute. Little or no wind unfortunately (and the weather predictions look pretty light too) when we are going to need a good breeze to make back all the time we can on passage to Sri Lanka. Phi Phi Don is an extraordinary place – sheer, high cliffs rising from the sea and showing no real basis for habitation. Rounding into the anchorage there is a modest beach and coastal area into which is packed, intensively, every aspect of human leisure and hedonism. No traditional village, no fishing harbour but internet cafes, bars, restaurants, clubs, travel agents, massage studios, tourist shops, dive shops, tattooists – you name it: if it pleases someone, it is here!

Yacht haven

Tim Magee – Joy at last with confirmation of the part for the cooker being ordered and enroute. Everybody put a hard day of work into maintenance on the boat, and with a lot of polish used she is looking in fine form. We should have the part here by Tuesday and have a plan b aswell so that we will definitely be on passage to sri lanka by Wednesday with a means to provide at least one hot meal a day. The idea of cold baked beans and sandwiches for 10 days has thankfully been avoided. We should be getting in to Sri Lanka then only a couple of day s behind schedule and it gives us a few more days here in wonderful Thailand which can’t be a bad thing!


Shannon McWilliam

We had a very shiny day today. The yacht was cleaned top to bottom including mast and some sail repairs. I got the good job of repairing a broken line attached to life rafts hydrostatic release system so my workman ship is now part of history!! Lots of polishing and buffing of things, it was a very good day for how much we got done even though it was quite hard. Best thing to chill you out after a long day on GM would be a drink and a game of pool each of which we had slightly more than needed but I’m still here so it’s all groovy. Met a girl from Sheffield who was a nun for 3 weeks in a Buddhist monastery which I thought was quite cool. So glad to be sailing tomorrow.


Richard Talbot
Yet another day ashore. We spent the day preparing for the coming trip. The cooker part, as we speak, is being flown in from Finland and should be here in a day or two. Some of the jobs on the list were as follows: clean and anti-bac below deck, scrub the decks, polish all the metal above deck, mend sails, repair a strap on the life-raft and buy some more provisions. Cleaning the mast took forever and a day, but the view from the top made it all worth while. We rounded the day off with a few beers and a king prawn the size of Shannon.


Steven Routledge
Today wasn’t to bad spent an other day moored up which is a shame but we got a kinda reward in the shape of a cool glass of water (wink wink) for our days hard work of cleaning the boat and making a few repairs. Got to go to the top of the mast to polish it which was fun and yet painful on the legs also the view was stunning, this was mirrored by the mast once I had finished though. The (I don’t know if it something to do with the water or not haha) prawns were huge I couldn’t believe just how big they were. Starting to spend too much time here as I’m liking the local customs and happy attitude I don’t really want to leave that much. Oh and also we have set a challenge to get as many pics of random people with our monkey

Steve Chipperfield
An exciting maintenance day for me, the highlight being to lift out and clean the log impellers – these are little paddle wheels that send out a signal to tell the instruments how fast the boat is going. The impellers are situated well below the water line, so you have to delve into the bilge to find them and then the real excitement is to pull them out and then put a plug in their place as the water comes in with the force of a fire hose. Unfortunately, the plugs provided were the wrong size and so I received a thorough drenching. Any way, in due course I scraped out all the aquatic life that had made its home in the impellers, the little paddle wheels spin again and we should be able to read our boat speed once more.

Yacht Haven


Tim Magee – Well a swift return to the yacht haven after the cooker decided to behave like the england cricket team, well not quite, as this was an unexpected collapse. Have spent much of the time diagnosing the problem and locating a spare part which will hopefully arrive on Tuesday, whilst the others have been taking in the delights of thailand. Should be underway for a little cruise on Sunday, down to Ko Phi Phi which I think everyone is dying to get going and make a passage. Pick up the part and then off to Sri lanka is the aim of the game now. I feel very at one with our wallas stove now!


Shannon McWilliam

Yesterday was a very touristy day with plenty of driving for mate Steve. We travelled down the West Coast of the island visiting some of the beaches. Patong was pretty hectic but once you got past the tourists it was a pretty groovy place. I tried some nice dried squid and some local juice. The beaches were stunning and the swimming even more so. Got seriously burned on my back though which wasn’t too good, it’s all groovy though. Was a really good day with some classic photos to go with it.

Today was another touristy day and the relaxation was very welcome (even though were not exactly busy). We travelled north today and got a long tail boat up through some islands and Hong’s. I have never seen anything like it, I used a new set of batteries in my camera in the space of 30 mins! It was defo an experience. Were having to wait for a part for the cooker so were not leaving until Tuesday now which puts our flights a little later but were still waiting to find out details. It’s all very Scout like at the moment but I’m loving the extra time here in Thailand. Hopefully going out for a few day sails round the island while were waiting for the part so the next few days should see a pick up in the pace. Much Love to all my family and friends who I am neglecting to text/callxxx.


Steve Chipperfield

Frustrations about not getting underway were balanced out today by the opportunity to drive up to Phang Nga and the Krabi Province. The Wall to Wall beach lizards and tawdry bars of southern Phuket were replaced by beautiful, unspoiled mountains, rubber plantations, forest and charming Thai villages. The lack of western civilisation became more apparent when, after over an hour’s driving, we still had not come across a gas station; driving in these beautiful regions was one thing –walking dozens of kilometres in the swearing heat to find fuel another. We eventually filled up out of old lemonade bottles at a corner shop. After that…the longtail, the islands and a remote beach. Not such a bad compensation….


Steven Routledge
Wednesday
Today we went to some beaches around the island went for a swim and basically did what tourists do best look bad get in the and be rude keeping the standards high haha. Whilst we were around one of the beaches we watched part of a football match and also I met some locals who happened to have a diabolo to which I took great interest and proceeded to show them some of the tricks I know.

Thursday
We are still in Phuket, which I’m not complaining about as we got to go on a longtail trip around some islands (longtail being a boat). We stopped off at James Bond island, two hongs (islands which have had the middle cave in) a cave and an island which happen to have monkeys on.
We later travelled to a really quiet beach on which we performed some body surfing and where me and Richard picked up to coca nuts and dismantled on the way back.


Richard Talbot
Today saw some stunning scenery both inland and on the coast. As we were waiting on the cooker to be fixed (flying in the spare part from Finland) we had the opportunity to explore the surrounding islands. We headed north to the Krabi province and Phang Nda. The highlight of the day saw us take a longtale boat ride to bond island and some Hong’s – islands which are donut shaped at the roof has caved in. entertainment was provided by the driver in the form of an overeating engine. This was cooled with liberal amounts of seawater, but only after we had drifted into a mass of fishing net. On the journey back to the mariner, we stopped off at a wonderful beach – practically devoid of any tourists – where we got a chance to practice that all important skill of body surfing. Hey Zeus and I found a pair of coconuts here and managed to open them using only our bare hands and an old tile. Sustenance was provided today in the form of an open-air market. I cannot express the sheer bewilderment of a lot of the natives when they saw us venture into the market, but they were very smiley and helpful.
Yesterday saw us also take the hire car out for a spin, but we headed south to some of the beaches. The girls were stunning, the sea warm, the food great and the clothes cheap. A good day was had by all – bar the skip who spent many a long hour wrestling the cooker.

Ao Labu

Position – N08 01.4 E098 33.6

Wind – NNE 3


Tim Magee – Well, finally managed to get all the goodbye’s sorted and all the small things that go with preparing the boat for the sail to Sri Lanka. A big thank you to Nick and Zara at the Yacht Haven who have been absolutely fantastic. A pleasant little sail this afternoon getting some practice in with the mob drills and sails up and down. Anchored in Ao Labu now for a peaceful night, ready for an early start! Marvellous!

Steve Chipperfield – Great to get out on the boat today and see how beautiful the islands are here. Looking forward to exploring some more!

Richard Talbot.
Yesterday’s events were purely preparations for the coming trip. Firstly the skip took us round the boat whilst we pointed out all the potential hazards – both above and below deck. After the essential but rather dull safety talk, we headed into town for a late lunch and to pick up supplies. Lunch turned out to be above Tesco in a large complex containing both western and native cuisine. Steve and I opted for a very spicy noodle dish at the vast expense of 40 pence each. On returning back to Gipsy Moth, we stowed the food and made other preparations before turning our thoughts towards tea. This consisted of another fine spicy curry and rice. Beer the bed followed with a surprisingly good sleep.
Today started with a cold awaking shower at approx. 0715, followed closely by a satisfying breakfast: cappuccino, fried eggs, hot dog, freshly squeezed orange juice and slices of tomato. By 0930 the temperature was well into the 20’s, maybe even reaching 30. Myself and Jesus then had a leisurely stroll; around the mariner and soaked up the stunning scenery and boats. Then unfortunately back to the duties of scrubbing down the deck and heads. Today I have been allocated the duty of “mother” which requires cooking meals and breast-feeding, the former of which I consider myself to be rather good. We set off from the mariner around 1300 and heading south to Ao Labu, a stunning area of Thailand I must confess - but the journey was not without its drama. Man over board drill was carried out very rigorously so that in the event of an emergency occurring we would be capable of retrieving the casualty – touch wood. Then we spotted a local Thai boat that we considered to be on fire, so naturally rushed over, only to find that it had an extremely smoky engine. At the moment we are at anchor just off shore and having some slight misfortune concerning both the cooker and fishing - nothing has been caught and the cooker keeps on overheating.


Shannon McWilliam
Yesterday was pretty much a get to know me kinda day. We were briefed about most parts of the yacht and we did our safety briefs yesterday aswell. I think I understand most of the things I should but I am still learning. We went to the Thai Tesco yesterday which was an experience. Every thing was so manic and chaotic. There was certainly a lot going on anyway! Tried some mankey cold coffee ice-cream drink, that was fun. Ended the day with a nice meal and a game of pool (I won).
Today wasn’t as leisurely as yesterday but still fun. We made the final checks and finished off the jobs that had to be done before setting off toward Ao Labu to anchor for the night. We had a nice sail with some pretty snazzy scenery and a sunset to die for. Now that were here we find that the cooker isn’t working and we don’t know why. So skip is still investigating that while mother dearest is making some sandwiched for dinner. Tried some fishing but with no luck, will try again tomorrow.

Steven Routledge
Yesterday was basically a day of getting to know the boat where objects belong on board, safety briefs ands shopping. The Tesco yes that is right Tesco shopping mail was packed and a lot of yellow was worn due to the fact that it was a Monday the day the king was born which means people get to wear yellow in celebration. Later on in the day when everything that could be done had been done we went to a local restaurant and tried some local food which was interesting.
As for today when have been practising man over board drill. As we where coming into a safe place to anchor up for the night we saw a boat smoking quite a lot so we sailed ova to check it out luckily we didn’t have to save anyone. Just about to eat dinner which happens to be sandwiches due to the cooker braking so nothing to bad.