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LEG 29 - SARDINIA TO PALMA | 22/04/07 - 02/05/07
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END OF LEG 29 IN PALMA
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Skippers Log 2nd May
It was nice to get away from Puerto De La Rapita. There was an uncomfortable swell running in through the night. Shore power wasn’t working and the facilities were not up to much.
After motoring for a while and topping up our tanks from the water maker we set some sails. We went for a sail configuration that we had not used before. Working jib and staysail up front plus main and mizzen, for a beam reach along the south coast of Mallorca towards Palma. Glorious sailing, sun, just the right amount of breeze and for once the wind direction conducive to fast straight line sailing. It was a shame that two of the crew didn’t feel well enough to enjoy it. The swell left over from yesterday’s weather meant that Jim took to his bunk and Scott toughed it our on deck felling distinctly unwell.
We decided to try out the self steering gear. Once again I could sympathise with some of the sentiments expressed in Sir Francis’ book. We did get it working but every now and again it needed a little help, usually when the wind dropped light.
Our berth in Palma was a little tricky to get into but nice and cosy now that we are in. Our crew left the boat for some sightseeing and Leanna and I did some of the chores. We decided to clean the oilskins by stopping up the cockpit drains and using the cockpit as a big bath (how to make work fun).
This evening we stepped ashore for a last meal together in a restaurant, the meal was very Spanish and enjoyable. The mood around the table did not seem as jolly as previous meals, maybe I felt this way because I was tired or maybe everyone felt a little melancholy. I don’t think anyone wanted our adventure together to end.
Some final thoughts from our crew.
Cheryl –
Our last day on the voyage. It was really fun, but I was sad that it is all ending. It was such an amazing experience, to be doing this trip in such a historic boat, with such history behind it all. I think that I will definitely be taking up some sailing when I get back home, since it was such a cool experience.
Yesterdays shopping did prove to be very, very funny as expected. Scott acted out a chicken, and a cow, because he didn’t believe my translation of pollo. Then we wandered around the port for a bit and saw a slight car crash, mainly just a fender bender, but still, weird things seem to happen when the three of us walk around. Oh then we tried to go fishing, but not with a fishing rod, actually with a bucket. This wound up breaking, which was too bad. And we didn’t catch a single fish, although we discovered a flaw in the women’s shower door, so that you could get in for free instead of paying 1 euro, but it got fixed, and we attracted some strange looks.
So this morning we bought a bucket to replace the one that we broke, and a net, so that the next group of kids who want to go fishing don’t need to use either a bucket or a broken fishing rod. We set of from Sa Rapita at 9:00 am so that we could get to Palma at a good hour. The start of the sail was a bit wet as many a wave crashed onto our boat, but it got really nice and really hot. I got a bit of a nap in and bit of a burn on my arms. It’s not too bad though, since Mike warned me about it before I burned badly. Scott wasn’t feeling well again and Jim just slept the entire trip, so I have some pictures of Jim sleeping, which are amusing. The best part is that I wasn’t the only one to take pictures of him, everyone else on board did as well. Great minds think alike. Oh and we got a chance to use the self steering gear that Sir Francis constantly complains about in his book, and I understand why. It doesn’t seem to be the most effective of methods to steer. I think I did better when I was nearly asleep. But I am glad that we got a chance to test it out.
We got to Palma at around 2:00 pm, but didn’t get into a berth for quite some time as they were struggling to find an appropriate berth for us. They were however, unsuccessful, but nothing bad happened while we were getting into the berth so it turned out fine.
After that myself, Mr. Suttner, Jim and Scott all went for a little walk around Palma, so that Scott could do some souvenir shopping and so that we could explore for a bit. The streets here are so interesting; they are almost all apartment type buildings, so each side of the very narrow streets is lined with building stacked together. I hope to get some good pictures. We found the hotel that we will be staying at for a few days until our flight leaves and it seems nice. Palma is so unique, people just walk in the streets, and I believe that there are some streets designated solely for pedestrians. The way that it is designed is so intriguing. There seems to be a main plaza, and everything else just spirals out from there. I think that you could wander for hours in there and still not see anything. Then only thing that annoyed me is that everything in the shops seemed like it does at home. There are not too many shops unique to Palma where we were looking. Everything seems like it would at home, just with a different setting. That was quite disappointing for me. I was hoping to see some unique Spanish culture.
But anyway, we got back to the boat and signed the soccer ball and book that we were supposed to sign as part of the crew, showered, and got ready to head out for dinner. We went to this restaurant, which to start with was very crowded. I personally couldn’t be in there with so many people, as I dislike that many people being so close to me and it was very noisy and people were speaking in a language that I couldn’t understand. So I had to go and wait outside until a table was ready, and very nicely Scott and Jim came to wait with me. We hung out for a bit outside until Leanna joined us. Then we went for a bit of a wander where we saw these people who were trying to sell these gadgets, but they looked so funny. When a table was free we went inside and got ready to eat.
For dinner what you were supposed to do was order a bunch of different things, and then share them throughout the table. So we ordered things like stuffed mussels, brawn (or something like that) which were like shrimp, octopus, ham, cheese and some salads with crab in them. I am proud to say that I ate a bit of everything, except the hams, since I’m not a fan of cold-cuts. For dessert, there were cakes or mousse. There was one that we thought was cheesecake, but weren’t sure, so we ordered it to try it out. There was also Lemon Mousse which was very good. Since Scott and I both wanted the cheesecake but we weren’t sure that it would be real cheesecake, we ordered a cheesecake and lemon mousse and split them. They were both very good, although I think that I preferred the cheesecake.
So now we are getting ready to go to sleep, our last night on Gipsy Moth. Scott’s taxi leaves at 7:30 tomorrow morning, and I want to be up to wish him off. I’m really going to miss this boat, and this experience and I know that I’ll never have another even close to like it. I’m going to miss the people to, because everyone’s been so nice, and I loved learning bits about how to sail and about boats. I really appreciate all that I’ve been through and all that was done to get me here. I know that I will treasure this experience for the rest of my life.
Scott –
Hi to day has been very fun we went shopping in this place were we are now u now the place and we learned all this new languages and me and Jim are not to shore what 1 is what and were talking in all sorts of languages to the Spanish and we went to the drug shop and I tried asking for sea sick pills in Spanish it was a bit of a giggle. I think I am home sick do I think because I am missing my family and friends and Kirsty yes I am so I think that that is home sick. I sorry I not mention u lot before but I don’t relly enjoy righting on this thing as u might of noticed yer my log thing is much smaller then the over peoples log things so yes its not because I not thinking of u lot because I am I would say a list of names but then sum people might get mad with me if I don’t say there name the main people are my family and Kirsty and a few over people and I do miss annoying me teachers so I say by again for now any way by xx
Hi im Scott but u all ready now that im kinder tiered so don’t know what im gonner say ermmmmmmm we met a biker beach bum today and we sore a car accident and I ask for chiken in Spanish and we went fishing lol scott out zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
Hi Scott again im am sad its my last log entry to day as I fly home tomorrow hi. I am looking forward to sum things at home do manly my bed but also my family and friends especially kirsty and I missing sum over things to but we now have internet now so I can send u all sum kind of email thing in a minute well the 1nc that r on bebo I cant remember every 1 else’s emails o yer skipper snores a lot Mick when u read this if u do not wish for it to go on the internet then fell free to del them but keep this bet it amuses me by every 1 see u in a few hour’s by xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Jim –
May 1, 2007
Our arrival in Sa Rapita this morning was a difficult one. Oddly, the harbour greets incoming ships with a pile of rocks at the harbour’s entrance. Coupled with shallow waters and a rough sea, this landing was certainly our hardest, but through teamwork and excellent organization and execution by our skipper and Leanna, we moored-up safely with no damage to our precious vessel.
We three youngsters built a lunch of hot dogs and fried potatoes. I must say, the difference between cooking at sea and when moored-up is significant, and when the latter is the case, welcome.
While we cooked and ate, we were perplexed by a sudden jarring of the boat every now and then. After lunch, Scott and Cheryl went to the beach deemed the best in Mallorca, while I and the others stayed back to clean. Upon some investigation, we concluded that the mysterious banging was caused by the keel of the boat hitting on the shallow harbour bottom. Moving the boat in such shallow water was, to say the least, difficult, but we managed.
As our supply of meat had been exhausted in Cheryl’s chilli concoction of last night, we once again had to search for some. Scott and I were planning spaghetti bolognaise for tonight’s meal, and we needed some kind of minced meat. The only grocery store in the area carried no meat of the kind, so we had to compromise with sausages. We delivered the meat to the boat, and began to explore the island.
There were many strange occurrences that afternoon, none of which were caused by us. As we left the boat, a fish jumped from the water and landed, flopping madly on the dock. (Don’t worry - we returned him safely to his watery home.) Later, we found a rusty wok amongst some rocks in the middle of an otherwise-empty plot of land. As we progressed, we witnessed a strangely slow vehicular mishap. It certainly was a memorable afternoon.
We walked around the residential area. The colourful houses are like nothing we have at home. This area of the island was not at all like the others: as there were no tourists, it was much quieter, and it was interesting to see the locals as they live normally.
Scott and I made dinner when we returned. It was not what could be called a “traditional” spaghetti bolognaise, though we are told it was just as edible. The cooking process was one of great amusement: I was new to bolognaise-making, and thus I used methods probably considered improper. But, in the end, we got a meal on the table and our crew were fed. We made much more pasta than bolognaise, so one of us had to have no sauce, a position for which I was happy to volunteer (I’d had quite enough of bolognaise in the cooking process). As our last dinner aboard the Gipsy Moth, we ate happily together in a most comfortable and warm atmosphere.
May 2, 2007
We woke early today and set sail for Palma, our final destination. It was a lovely, albeit choppy sail. As I had again consumed tablets to remedy my seasickness, I was exhausted, and spent most of the journey sleeping below decks.
When I awoke, we were in busy Palma harbour. After some confusion, we docked nestled tightly between two other boats.
Mr. Suttner, Scott, Cheryl and I headed out into Palma that afternoon. We walked for hours and saw many sights typical of an active, popular location. We stopped for a drink in the town square, where we listened to the strumming of a wandering minstrel.
When we returned to the boat, Scott and I went to the showers. These were, by a sizable margin, the nicest showers we had experienced on our trip.
Once we were respectable and decent-looking, we went out to dinner at a local pub. Though it was busy and hectic, the dining experience was most enjoyable. We ate in a method I had never seen before called “tapas”, wherein we each ordered one food (i.e. ham, salad, cheese, etc.) and passed it around, resulting in diverse meals for everyone. I don’t know whether this concept is popular in Spain or if our crew had just become very close, but it made for an excellent dinner.
May 3, 2007
There was a sad atmosphere haunting the Gipsy Moth when we woke early this morning. As we packed, we reminisced fondly about our experiences of these past eight days.
We exchanged e-mail addresses and bid farewell to Scott. Leanna and he left in a taxi, as his flight is scheduled to leave this morning. Leanna is due back with the new crew later on today. I’m sure if they have anywhere near the fun we had on our trip, they will enjoy themselves thoroughly.
As much as I look forward to returning home, I cannot say that this was anything but a phenomenal experience. I have made three new friends in Scott, Leanna and Mike, and I have deepened my relationship with those I knew prior to coming here. Sir Francis Chichester may have set a record and made a name for himself, but I guarantee he did not enjoy himself as much as he would have had he been accompanied by this crew.
Wayne –
As George Harrison once sang, “All Things Must Pass”. And so, we have come to the end of our adventure. I dare say, I may feel a little verklempt when I say good-bye to Mike, Leanna and Scott tomorrow. What a fantastic week it has been. Of course, the sailing was the highlight for me but the friendships I’ve made and developed further have been just as important. Mike and Leanna have been amazing with the kids and with a slow-learner/no-learner/easily forgottener like myself. No matter how many bone-headed sailing mistakes I made, they ignored them if they weren’t life-threatening and if they were, so cheerily and politely pointed out the correct procedure, even if they’d just explained the whole thing to me previously, twenty minutes before-hand.
It’s been great to get to know Scott. What a fine young man he is. He is good-hearted and sincere and I wish him well as he heads off to college this fall. He’s got a great sense of humour and doesn’t mind laughing at himself from time to time.
Jim and Cheryl have been super good company. They’ve accomplished things this week that I’m sure they could never have imagined doing. This week has changed me - I can only imagine what the final impact will be for the two of them.
Sir Francis has been good company as well. With perfect timing, I finished reading Gipsy Moth Circles the World just as we were sailing into Palma this afternoon. I still can’t believe what he accomplished forty years ago. Loneliness, physical exertion, overcoming fear – capsizing in The Tasman Sea! What a truly amazing man he was.
And finally, Gipsy Moth has been a true companion. She is a special yacht, with her own personality. She’s been very good to us and has carried us safely. It’s been an honour and privilege to have spent this time with her. She has worked hard and deserves her soon to come rest. Hasta luego amiga. Yo te quiero.
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GIPSY MOTH IV THRASHING UPWIND
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Skippers Log 1st May 07
We have arrived in Puerto De La Rapita which is a small marina on the south coast of Mallorca. It is close to a beach which is reputed to be one of the finest on the island. It certainly looks lovely. Although not inviting as there is a force 5-6 wind blowing from the SW, and it is quite cold.
It was great to sail again after many hours of motoring. We motored most of the way from Corsica to Sardinia and then through the night tog get from Mahon to the SE tip of Mallorca. Finally the breeze got up and we were able to sail. The law of sod dictates that when on passage the wind will either be coming from where you want to go or where you have just been. Today the wind was on the nose.
So we were all able to participate in the Gipsy Moth sailing to windward experience. Once again everything Sir Francis talks about in the book is borne out. Hard on the wind she lays over really easily. I suppose that I am just not used to tender boats having been sailing nothing but modern stiffer designs for some years.
The wind increased and we started to take a few waves over the bow. Leading to one or two interesting salt stiffened hair styles. Although, some of the crew went a little quiet no-one was ill on this voyage, which shows how everyone is gaining their sea legs.
Our crew members cooked the evening meal with no adult supervision this evening. Our pasta meal became a pasta pantomime and it was great fun listening into to the discussion going on between the three of them. The meal produced was excellent ( I was surprised to discover) and eaten with much talk and laughter, the atmosphere around the table was priceless.
Onto Palma tomorrow, our final port of call on this leg. More from me then, here are the thoughts of some of the guys.
Cheryl’s journal –
April 30th
So we are in Mahon with a bunch of Spanish speaking people. I love Spanish, it’s such a fun language, but of course all the people speak English too, so it’s not so fun. I got to sleep for an entire night, it was wonderful. No one woke me up to come and sit in the cold for three hours in the middle of the night. I’ll have to say that I won’t miss night watches too much when this is all over. I will miss the whole experience, but I think I’ll be happy to be at home too. I miss everyone from home.
So today we went shopping for some groceries. That was quite an experience. We couldn’t find some of the stuff, so we had to ask, but we didn’t know how to say it in Spanish. We looked through almost all the shops too. Everything here is so expensive. I want to get my friends some cool souvenirs, but I’m not sure I can afford it. So it’s back to my original idea, which I won’t write here in case some of them are reading it.
It’s really very funny listening to Scott and Jim try to speak Spanish. I suppose it’s the thought that counts, but they kept forgetting words, or mixing up languages. Using French or Italian instead of Spanish. But at least they were trying.
While we were cleaning the whole boat, scrubbing the floor, deck, “antibacterializing” everything etc. some reporters from the Spanish papers came to talk to us and to take pictures. We are now going to be famous in Spanish newspapers. Apparently they are going to send a copy to UKSA, which hopefully will get to us. It’d be neat to read about ourselves. Of course the picture has clothes all over the edge of the boat, since we were drying everything from yesterday.
Just before we left, Jim realized that he didn’t have any seasick pills. So he asked if he could go buy some, and Scott was going to come with him. Of course the thought of the two of them in the streets of Mahon with little to no Spanish knowledge sounded just hilarious, so I asked if I could go along for entertainment. And it did prove to be entertaining. First I asked a lady where the pharmacy was. She pointed in the direction and we started running. After that we asked just about every person we saw, and found out that it was a 10 minute walk, so we booked it on the way there. These stupid shoes that everyone wears very loose proved to be stupid, because as we were running, Jim’s shoes went flying off. One of them came right back at me. I couldn’t run because I was laughing so hard. The Spanish people were giving us weird looks. We got to the pharmacy, and Scott tried to ask the lady for seasick pills. In Spanish of course. But she spoke English very well, so she had a good laugh at him. So did Jim and I.
Then we ran back to the boat, stopping only for ice cream-just the essentials of course. When we got there the boat was all ready to leave and we just got on and cast off. I started to make chilli for dinner, which was quite and experience since I don’t know how to cook chilli. Cooking without a recipe involves a lot of just grabbing random spices and tossing them in. It turned out quite good though, despite my adventure with Tabasco sauce. It actually could have used more, but that’s okay it was still good. Tonight we’re switching around the night watches, so my group does the 8-11 and 2-5 shifts. Scott and I were quite happy about that, since those were the ones we had wanted in the first place.
May 1st
Happy 1st of May! I was wished that at about 2:30 am. Night shifts were quite fun. Scott and I talked for our entire first shift and it sped by so quickly. Scott talks a lot about his friends, especially Kirsty. They sound like wonderful people from what he says, especially this Kirsty. Although sticking your arm out in front of a moving bus to see what happens doesn’t seem like the smartest idea.
The sea was really rough last night. Towards the end of our first watch the wind was picking up and the waves were getting a bit scary. Trying to sleep at the bow of the boat in that weather isn’t fun at all. Apparently on the fast boats, they strap people in with seat belt type things. At first I thought that it was funny, but now I understand why. I’m pretty sure that I spent a good part of the night suspended half way between my bed and the ceiling. The only reason that my bags stayed on my bed despite the tacking back and forth was because I was sleeping on them and had a sheet tied to the ceiling at hold myself and my bags in the bed. It was a very interesting night.
While I was sleeping for the second time, my bags fell out of bed. But I was too lazy to get them again. It’s very uncomfortable when your body is moving to try to sleep.
This morning we saw a lot of ships and the boat was pretty much on her side as we were sailing. It was very wet as the water kept spraying at us. But it was fun. We had oatmeal for breakfast and got to port at about noon. Scott, Jim and I made hot dogs and fries things for lunch, it was really good. Scott and I went to the beach, but the water was really cool. We were the only ones there without wet suits on. Everyone else was wind surfing, and it was really neat. Then we wandered around the beach. It was pretty fun. But I think that the beach and the area behind it are hot spots for people getting drunk and partying because there were broken bottles, beer bottles and a lot of beer caps around there. Not a good thing if you are barefoot.
We’re going to try shopping here again. It should be funny. I mean fun. Well it’ll probably be both.
Wayne –
April 30th, May 1st
We set sail last night at about eight O’clock after spending a lovely day in Mahon (another spot I’d like to get back to some day). As the wind was right on the bow, we had to motor sail much of the way. Shortly after we departed, Cheryl got to work on supper. She ended up producing an amazing chilli. She said it was her first time making it so I think she’s a natural chef in addition to being a natural sailor. It was nice and spicy, just like I like it. I had seconds, even though the sailing was pretty rough.
Night watches were on a different schedule. Team “L” (Leanna, myself and Jim) took the 11 to 2 and 5 to 8 shifts while Team “M” (Mike, Cheryl and Scott) took on 8 to 11 and 2 to 5. As I mentioned, the seas were fairly rough so I didn’t get any sleep at all while I was off. I’m certainly feeling pretty tired right now but still exhilarated from the events I’ll now tell you about.
The real excitement started after the 5 to 8 shift. The wind changed direction enough for us to be able to hoist the jib. I was at the helm most of the way from that point on. The wind was howling nicely, upwards of 20 knots. The boat heeled right over to about 30 degrees and did what she does best. I’m usually not that great at realising what a fantastic experience I’m having, when the experience is actually occurring (I think I mentioned this all before). Normally, it only hits me when I look back on the whole thing, some time later. However, sailing Gipsy Moth, in those conditions, I was completely in the moment (and what a good moment it was).
Getting into the harbour here at Sa Rapita on Mallorca was quite interesting. At that point, the wind was up to force 6 and waves were occasionally crashing over the deck. Putting down the jib was entertaining, with the boat heeled right over and I was certainly hooked into the safety line. It really was fantastic fun. My sailing buddy Greg would have died to have been there.
I was thinking today about how well the six of us have gotten along on our little adventure. It gets a little cramped sometimes, with about a total of 600 square feet for six people. Scott, Jim and Cheryl are getting along famously. It was pretty cute, how shy the three of them were around each other originally. The way they are now, laughing about “the good ol’ days” (i.e. three days ago), you’d think they’d spent a summer together. Recipe of the day: take three teenagers, put them together on an historic sailboat, add a patient and fun skipper, a glowing and sometimes dancing first mate/mother hen/cheerleader and a high school guidance counsellor in his glory – shake it all up (this is Gipsy Moth you must remember) and voila! Magic!
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AIRING IN MAHON
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Skippers log 30th April 2007
Just a brief word this evening. We have all had a relaxed day in Mahon, although lots of cleaning and airing has been done (see photo)
We are currently on passage to Mallorca. It is 10pm, Cheryl and Scott are on watch with me and we Hand over to the others at 11pm. We should arrive at our destination by lunchtime tomorrow. More from us then
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ONE EGG, ONE ,ORANGE ,ONE LEMON AND SZMELLY CHEESE DAY
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Skippers Log 29th April 2007 – One egg, one lemon, one orange and smelly cheese day
Through the night we continued to motor and managed to keep the batteries up to 10%.
At breakfast time the crew were called onto deck for an announcement from me, their skipper. When I started rereading Sir Francis Chichester’s book about his voyage in Gipsy Moth IV I looked for the chapter relating to the dates of our trip. The idea being that we reflect on what was happening onboard this yacht exactly 40 years ago. I found the following passage
“On April 29th I finished the fresh (ahem!) eggs, and I ate my last grapefruit, leaving only one orange and one lemon.”
Later in the same passage Sir Francis comments
“My remaining cheeses had to go, too. There was an increasingly horrible smell in the cabin which at first I attributed to rotting fruit or vegetables. But after I had checked all these, the aroma steadily became more nauseating every time I passed through the cabin. Then I found that it was due to five cheeses which had been shut in a plastic box. A roll of charts had fallen on to the box and pressed open the lid, thereby letting out the evil genie of the box. Those cheeses were not crawling or humming, they were swimming. It was an ordeal to get them into the sea.”
So, henceforth, the crew of Gipsy Moth IV would like the 29th April to be known as One egg, one lemon, one orange and smelly cheese day. This day is to be celebrated in the following way;- consume eggs, cheese, oranges and lemons. This is best done by having pancakes for breakfast with orange juice and/or lemon juice, then for lunch cheese omelette. After consuming our breakfast we conducted a little ceremony to honour the day. A ceremonial piece of cheese was thrown over the side, as Sir Francis had felt quite ill depositing his cheese over the side we chose the most seasick person of the trip, Jim, to do the honours.
Later in the day we had a surprise, after stopping the engine to conduct oceanography, we found that the batteries started to charge on restarting the engine.
In the evening we entered the port of Mahon. We were welcomed by a thunderstorm and downpour as well as an impression that no-one was home as we could not raise marinas or yacht clubs by VHF or telephone. We finally got berthed at Club Maritimo De Mahon and have enjoyed their facilities since then.
Scott –
Hi me again and no night watch tonight yeraaaa that is a good thing as I have been very sleepy. But on the last night watch we did have are first sight of a dolphin it was very lovely it was only a nipper but he was on his Owen so maybe lost or something or maybe he ran away I don’t know don’t know how dolphins think. We also sore a turtle a big 1 as well. It bored down with rain as we were coming in to Mahon witch I enjoyed and a storm was 1 of the things I was looking fored to but that was just a small storm but it was still fun and wet witch then led to us going to the showers and that was funny as they turned the hot water off after about 1 min of hot water and Jim well Jim what can I say well he just broke about every thing he could not on purpose but it was funny as I don’t think the shower well ever be apple to turn off again hehehehehe. Mahon looks like a nice place but not seen much of it yet hopping to see more tomorrow so I see u then then byyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy x
Jim -
I woke up this morning still in awe of such a beautiful night passed. Thankfully, I think I have gained my sea-legs and am comfortable to walk about above deck without fear of falling ill, though I tried to keep below-deck wanderings to a minimum.
We continued on our westward way. We tried raising various sail combinations, but in the end, the wind did not match the efficiency of our engine. Our alternator troubles came to an end, and our batteries charged much more quickly. We saw few ships along the way, but, ironically, we still had to make manoeuvres to avoid collision, despite being in such an expansive body of water.
Shortly after coming into the first sight of land for a day and a half, dark clouds gathered and opened above us. The rain slowed and eventually came to a halt as we drew near Minorca. However, as we pulled into port, the downpour began again.
I find it hard to decide which scene was more moving: the shower of the night before, or pulling into Mahon in a thunderstorm. We passed yachts, huge cruise ships, ferries and dinghies, all as wet as the Gipsy Moth. Thunder clapped above us, and lightening appeared frequently and close by. Due to some language-related confusion, we were left to circle aimlessly for quite some time in the harbour before pulling into a berth. We were only moored a few minutes before being told to move on, and by the time we found a proper docking location we were as wet as the sea below us.
I was most thankful to be on land again. We immediately set out to find showers, and found what appeared to be a very decent setup provided by the marina. Upon using them, we found that they were not all they appeared to be – of the few showers that functioned, the water was warm for only a couple of minutes before changing to a temperature uncomfortably reminiscent of the day’s downpour.
Upon returning from the showers, we were delighted to find yet another exceptional meal put on by Leanna. Before we knew it, the hour grew late, and we hurried to clean up. I was excited to do the dishes, as being able to stay below deck long enough to do so was a sure sign of being safely moored-up, and seasickness was a threat no longer.
Cheryl –
One egg, one orange, one lemon and smelly cheese day today! Please don’t ask, it’s a bit complicated. If you really want explanation, it has to do with Sir Francis Chichester and what he ate and threw away 40 years ago. I think there will be a video of it on the website when we get back, in case you’re really interested. But we celebrated by having pancakes with lemon and orange, and omelettes with cheese. Also we had pasta with cheese.
Last night was pretty much torture on the watch front. No Jim to entertain us. Apparently he enjoyed night watch. I pretty much fell asleep, but only for a bit at the helm. But Scott and I had a good conversation about Thanksgiving. Fortunately it was funny though because he couldn’t hear me properly and thought that we ate Europeans to celebrate. Don’t forget that we were very tired by this point. But we did see a dolphin. It was really cute and jumped once for us. Mr Suttner saw one too, but Jim was a bit busy at the time and didn’t see it.
Jim can’t steer, don’t ever let him drive your boat. Or if he does, tell him a bearing about 100 degrees off. Or just don’t serve him pancakes while he’s driving.
It started to rain today. Mediterranean rain is much colder, stronger and wetter than Canadian rain. I really didn’t enjoy that part and tried to spend as much time below-deck as possible. Of course I had to be above deck for the part when we got into the port. I got soaked through my oilskins and jacket and t-shirt. It wasn’t fun at all.
When we got into Mahon, we had to deal with finding a berth. Since we couldn’t we just “borrowed” that of another boat that wasn’t there. Then we found showers, through the disguised door, and they were warm. But awkward since the showers didn’t have doors to them, they were just stalls. So for people like myself who are very self conscious, wearing under-clothes into the shower is a good idea. Fortunately no one was in the shower though. But Jim and Scott had quite an adventure in the guy’s room. According to them, everything was broken, and when they touched it, it all became obvious. Stuff like the shower handle, both soap dispensers, and the barriers between the showers. Also some doors and the floor, which they say were already broken. It was funny. Unfortunately the hot water in the showers decided to shut off after a few minutes. I was done my shower, but some very funny high-pitched screams came from the boy’s showers as they got cold water. That was funny.
Finally we had delicious pasta for dinner, and were up to like 11:20 eating and talking. That was fun, and then Scott, Jim and I cleaned up and did a lot of dishes. Who knows what time we were up until. But it was fun, as normal things are that much funnier when you are tired. And there were a lot of funny things.
Wayne-
Another good set of night watches. Leanna was showing her posh side. She introduced us (Jim and I) to the term “billy-o” (I probably don’t have the correct spelling here), as in “haul in that jib sheet and pull like billy-o”. I’ll have to start using that one. The sailing itself was relatively quiet, which I guess is what you want as you’re gliding through the water in darkness, without any land visible in the moonlight. We did see some other lights however, namely shooting stars and phosphorescent plankton (which was really strange). Another first as I got to sail using a mizzen staysail. Setting all these sails makes me wonder how Sir Francis did it all on his own. How did a 66 year-old man handle that huge spinnaker pole? The answer of course is “very slowly and very carefully”.
Mahon is a really pretty town and it’s great to be back in Spain. I had to get used to the “th” of European Spanish, as in “dithculpe thenore, donde eth el thentro”? I can’t help but feel a bit thilly when I’m doing it though (or is that “sough”?). I was reminded of Europeans’ difficulty with distances, as I went in search of some groceries. When I asked people where a mercado was, they would invariably tell me that there were none nearby and that it was too far to get to by foot. When pressed, they would eventually give up some vague directions of some unknown, unfathomable distance. I of course had to chuckle a bit to myself as I came across the store, some 10 blocks away or so. I guess that’s part of being from a country of 10 million square kilometres. By the way, in case anyone’s wondering, I don’t consider the UK as being part of Europe, more like its own planet really.
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LONG DAY AT SEA
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Skippers Log – 28/04/07
Picking up from the last log we did not continue to be so favoured by wind. At midnight we were no longer making sufficient speed under sail and switched to engine power. Our batteries were quite low by this stage (having been using them with no charging since departing Porto Cervo) so the boost in speed and power would be welcome. However, the power in the batteries continued to decline and it became apparent that the engine was not charging the batteries. This became our biggest challenge for the trip. The logbook records the gradual decline in battery power through the rest of the night and into this morning.
As it got light it was clear that we needed to do something, our solutions were twofold, one to switch off anything that was not essential (hence the lack of web reports posted in the past few days), the other was to deploy the towed generator. This worked really well and were able to slowly bring the batteries back up again.
The trip itself was relatively uneventful. There was not much breeze and we motored over a moderately swelly sea on towards Mahon.
Cheryl –
Last night Jim got sick. Poor guy. I was making dinner below-deck when I started to feel queasy, so he volunteered to finish up. Of course that made him sick, so he came above deck and Leanna dished out the food. I managed to eat, but Jim didn’t until after I’d gone to bed, then apparently he vomited it all up. After we’d gone to so much work to make it. But he puked over the same place in the rail as Scott, so we dubbed it the spot for vomiting. They decided that it would be my turn to throw up today, since Scott threw up, then Jim threw up, so it must be my turn. I felt sick, but I didn’t say anything because I’m the only one not using seasick tablets so I figured it must be my fault. Fortunately I didn’t throw up though, but there’s still tomorrow and tonight.
Night shifts aren’t too bad. The first night shift Scott and I talked, so it passed quickly, but the second one was going along very slowly. But Jim came to the rescue on that one by waking up for a bit to eat a banana, I guess. Anyway he looked like he was very drunk as he stumbled around the cabin and tried to talk to us. The best part was when he tried to go back to sleep though, because he just flopped into bed, then lay right down, and smacked his head off the wall. He was so far out of it though, and didn’t even notice. A couple of minutes later he woke up though and slid down onto the bed so he was sleeping properly. That kept Scott and I entertained for quite a bit.
Anyway later that shift (the 5-8 one) the sun rose, but I missed it because I was struggling to stay awake. But that was because the first time I was supposed to be sleeping, I didn’t get to sleep until the very last bit and only got like 45 minutes sleep. Then after that I got to sleep after about ½ an hour. So I’d only gotten 3.25 hours of sleep. After that, since Jim and I were on mummy duties, and he couldn’t come below-deck or he’d get sick, I tried to make French toast. Apparently some people eat it without cinnamon, so there wasn’t any on board. Oh well it turned out well anyway. But I started to feel sick after making it, so I went topside and ate there. Then I had a good sleep for like 3 hours on the sails that we weren’t using at that time. It was very comfortable but I think I burned my cheek, just one though because of how I was sleeping.
Anyway the rest of the day was pretty monotonous, because we just sailed. There wasn’t any land in sight. I felt bad though, because since neither Jim nor I could spend too much time below deck, we couldn’t do our mummy duties very well.
We did do an oceanography test of the water, and that was interesting. We also tried to fish, but nothing was biting. Also the fishing rod was broken. And when we tried to reel it in, we got it stuck in the generator. That was fun trying to untangle it. Turns out our lure had gotten lost anyway. Oh our batteries were dying, so we had to try to recharge them, but the engine wasn’t doing that properly, so we had to use a generator, which slowed us down. At least it worked a bit.
For dinner we had pizza and chips, made by Mr. Suttner and Scott and they were delicious. They took like 2 ½ hours to make though, and they had to spend that all below-deck. Jim and I couldn’t have done that, so we were lucky we’d switched.
Jim –
Today was our first full day of sailing. We are on our way from Corsica to Minorca, Spain. This trek will involve sailing westward across the Mediterranean Sea for about 48 hours. We did not cease our progression over night. I awoke in quite a daze, as the sea had not been kind to me the previous evening.
After some nourishment, I joined my fellow sailors up top. There was no land in sight, something which I had never before witnessed.
The day was relatively uneventful, something for which we were thankful. The sailing went well, but the wind did ease off as the day progressed, and we went under power of motor. We seem to be experiencing difficulty with our alternator, and the batteries were not charging properly. We dropped a towed generator behind us – a propeller which spun as it went through the water, which turner a rope which, in turn, rotated a generator on the stern. Very slowly, the batteries charged, but we had to be most sparing with the electricity consumption.
Tonight I experienced my first night watch. Until now, I was under the opinion that Bonifacio. However, even the most gorgeous of man-made wonders pales in comparison to the mystique and natural beauty of a moonlit, landless sea at night. Night-watch is my favourite aspect of sailing.
I was grouped with Mr. Suttner and Leanna for night-watches. The three of us took the first three-hour shift at 8:00 PM and witnessed a breathtaking sunset. I was most pleased to be with Mr. Suttner and Leanna, as they are delightful people. Mr. Suttner saw a dolphin, but I was, unfortunately, preoccupied at the aft of the boat and missed the sighting.
Our trio had our second shift at 2:00 AM. This shift was slightly more difficult (yet just as enjoyable) than the first, as we didn’t really wake up until about half an hour before our shift ended. We spent the night stargazing, visiting and trying to solve the world’s problems. To my delight, it began to rain gently. The drops, combined with the spectacular night, provided me with the most stunning scene I have experienced thus far on our voyage.
Wayne -
More new experiences as I’ve now gone through my first night watches. I was surprised and pleased with myself as to how well I dealt with the lack of sleep. I usually feel pretty dead without my solid eight. I don’t think I got any at all between the two watches but did manage to slumber after ending the second, at five in the morning. I was amazed at how quickly each three hour watch passed by. Jim and Leanna were great watch-mates, there was always something to talk about (or in Leanna’s case, to argue about (although she calls it debating)). They’re both so full of charm you see. Jim is a true gentleman, which makes him charming and Leanna is English, so of course she can’t help but be charming.
I can see how sailors of old, on very long voyages would have developed close friendships through spending time together on watches. You’re depending on each other for safety and also of course to fight boredom and possibly fear and loneliness. I couldn’t help but think of how Sir Francis managed it. In his writing, he rarely mentions feeling afraid and alone, although he must have, often. Of course, he missed his Sheila dearly, as I’m missing my Patricia now (and I’ve only been gone a week, not a hundred days!).
Scott-
Right well we have seen a nuver side to Jim and my god it funny yes he is certainly funny not got much sleep last night and not goner get much tonight either because I get to do night watch tonight as well tonight so all that happened today was sail and giggle as Jim is so funny he has very good manners and he a very good bloke and so funny yes I cant remember much of what happened to day all I can remember is giggling at Jim so I say by see you tomoro bybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybybbyybbybybybybybybybyxx
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LEAVING BONIFACIO
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Skippers Log 27/04/07
Writing up our journals a little earlier today, as we have just set off from Bonifacio bound for Mahon on Menorca. We will be going into watches as soon as it gets dark and it may be less convenient then to be working at computer terminals.
Everyone slept late this morning shaking off the effects of the first days sailing. Our only day in France had to start with fresh croissants bought from the local boulangerie. Whilst myself and the first mate Leanna set about some maintenance onboard the rest of the crew scaled the hill up to the old part of Bonifacio. The photograph shows them half way up the hill and in the background is Gipsy Moth with myself and Leanna working next to the main mast. I did get a chance to scale the hill myself and have added Bonifacio to the list of places that I must come back to. In the meantime we have 220 miles between us and Mahon. Currently eating up the miles with around 10-14 knots of breeze behind us. I will let you know if we continue to be so favoured. Mike Acton
Wayne-
I had a lovely sleep last night in what I’ve learned from Mike and from my reading is Sheila Chichester’s bunk. Most comfortable. Slept in until almost 9:30 this morning when I was awoken by the skipper making some sort of comment referring to “layabouts”! It was actually my first solid night of sleep and up until that point, I’d been running on energy derived from the excitement of every moment.
I must declare that Bonifacio is the prettiest town I’ve ever seen. The kids and I had a wonderful little walk about “Haute Ville” this morning. All kinds of narrow little streets with three or four story houses, laundry hanging out of windows, where you can almost touch the walls of the houses on either side. Imagine our surprise when a strange Corsican called to us from down a laneway, telling us to “arret”. This strange Corsican turned out to be Mike, out on his own little stroll. Afterwards, Scott had a hankering for crepes so the four of us went off for a bit of lunch while Mike and Leanna carried out some maintenance duties. The young crew of course opted for dessert type crepes while mine was a tasty treat of ham and cheese. As Scott said, “if we’re in France then, well, I guess we have to eat crepes, don’t we”? Now he’s looking forward to paella in Spain.
We’re making our way to Menorca now, Sardinia is to port, Corsica is to starboard. We’re running down wind and it is a spectacular early evening. I have to say, I am completely taken aback by what amazing sailors Jim and Cheryl are. Scott has a fair bit of experience and is very comfortable on the boat but really, for Cheryl and Jim, this is their first sailing experience. I mean, I knew they’d be good, that’s why I was so happy when I learned that we’d be doing this together. But, it turns out that these kids are absolute naturals. Can you imagine, there you are, really sailing for the first time in your life and what are you doing? Why, taking your turn at the helm of Gipsy Moth, in the middle of The Mediterranean Sea of course!
Cheryl-
So I keep sleeping really well here. I’m definitely catching up on any sleep I’ve missed. Except for that annoying roof which keeps hitting my head, it’s been wonderful on the boat and I keep dreaming. So this morning we had showers which was great because I was starting to feel really grimy, and croissants and other breads for breakfast. It was great, and I was pleased about eating croissants in France.
After breakfast we walked around for a bit, took a tour of Bonifacio I suppose you might say. Jim, Mr. Suttner and I took a ton of pictures and Scott worked the Gipsy Moth’s video camera. So there may very well be a video of me doing the can-can on the site. We went to a castle and wandered around town, it was all breathtaking. I don’t believe I’ve ever been anywhere as nice as that.
After we were done our meanderings, we went out for crepes (it’s supposed to have an accent on the first e, but I don’t know how to put one on this laptop). I got an apple one and this awesome milkshake, and Scott got this amazing looking one with ice cream, strawberries, apples and sugar. Jim got Nutella and bananas on his and Mr. Suttner got one with ham and cheese. They were really good.
When we got back to the boat, we were told of who would be doing what over our two day journey. Scott, Mike and I will be on one watch shift, and Leanna, Mr. Suttner and Jim on the other. I’ll be paired with Jim for “mummy duties” like cooking, cleaning etc. and Scott and Mr. Suttner will be together.
After we set up the Working Jib and the Running sails, we got ready to sail. It was kind of tricky leaving, but with some help from shore we had no problems. Once again we experienced the amazing view of Bonifacio as we left it, and fortunately I had my camera, so I took lots of pictures.
After sailing for an hour or so I’m still not seasick, so hopefully I won’t be at all. Jim and Scott took medication this morning, so hopefully that helped them out. We’ve decided to switch who does mummy duties tonight so that I can make buttuzi. It’s made of potatoes, carrots, onion, kale and it tastes great with sausages. The sausages need to be made tonight, so I have to make it tonight.
I’m looking forward to my first night on a sailboat at sea, and I hope I get some sleep. My group has the 11-2 shift tonight, which is when I start sleeping normally, so hopefully I don’t get too tired.
Scott-
Hi me again were now on are longest sailing trip out the lot were going to be doing. We left Bonifacio at 4 o clock and we started on are way but this time were have to do night shifts and I have just been a woken at 11 and I get to try and get sum more sleep at 2 o clock only to be woken again at 5 o clock it was pretty sad leaving Bonifacio as it is such a beautiful place but it is also very beautiful at see. Clad to say I not been sick to day with sum help from sum very good pills hehe I shouldn’t giggle as Jim was sick to day but hopefully there all goner have there go hehe. Cheryl mad a very nice dish to day that I have never tried before but it was very nice o yer we also hade sum lovely creps to day and for u none French they are basically pane cakes but they were lovely errm well I think that about it for to day byby kiss kiss xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx byyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy
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BONIFACIO WOW
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Skippers Log-
I started the day reading “Gipsy Moth Circles the World”. I read the first few chapters where Sir Francis describes commissioning the yacht and his first impressions of her (although I believe Sir Francis never felt warm enough to refer to Gipsy moth as a her, rather as an it). Well, today five more people formed their first impressions of sailing Gipsy Moth. If you are a follower of the Gipsy Moth story I am sure that you will know by now that she rolls. Before climbing aboard we new that she rolls but boy does she roll. This a quote from Francis Chichester’s book describing the moment when he and his wife first saw Gipsy Moth afloat – “There, the hull floated high on the surface; she didn’t look right. Then two or three tiny ripples from a ferry steamer made folds in the glassy surface, and Gipsy Moth rocked fore and aft. “My God ,” Sheila and I said to each other she’s a rocker!””
W had a great sail today from Porto Cervo to Bonifacio on Corsica. Lucky with the weather, force four to five just aft of the beam. Will be very happy if the weather carries on this way. Bonifacio is amazing! Towering cliffs all around us with houses and citadels perched impossibly near the edge. We are moored alongside the quay and many people have come up to the boat fascinated by the story of the boat and the current round the world trip. We keep having to explain that we just stepped aboard yesterday.
Tomorrow we set out for Menorca, about 250 miles away. We were promised by some of our visitors this evening that we would find Tuna along the way. Hers hoping…
Here are the thoughts of the rest of the crew.
Wayne
Well, what a day it’s been. For all of my Brockville Yacht Club friends, you’ll be pleased to know that I got to take the helm of Gypsy Moth today. What a feeling. Beyond a thrill really, more of a sense of quiet contentment. I was feeling quite pleased with myself. I was surprised to learn that the boat did not roll nearly as much as Sir Francis had complained about, it wasn’t that bad at all. I was pretty happy that I didn’t get seasick. Although I never have before, you never know when things can change.
The day started off in a dicey fashion though. The water had been turned off at the men’s washroom at the marina. So I snuck over to the women’s washroom and tried things out there. No luck. I found a tap that was down near the floor that I suppose is used for people to wash their feet. I was able to get enough water out for a cold water shave but that was about it. Of course, if I had waited another half hour or so, I would have been able to have a full hot water shower like some of the others.
The sail from Sardinia was beautiful. It felt great to be out on the water after a long winter. Coming into Bonifacio was spectacular, it looks rather Moorish and ancient. After a great supper, we had a fine dessert of Gibbon’s maple sugar candies and lollipops, which were a big hit with the Brits, especially the skipper.
Tomorrow and the next day will bring some new firsts, as we’ll be spending two nights at sea as we make our way to the Balearic Islands of Spain. I think I’ll be able to call myself a bona fide salty sailor then.
Cheryl-
I was woken up today from a dream about home. I actually slept really well, which I surprised about. Except for my tendency to forget how close the ceiling is to my head, so I keep hitting my head on it. Those are the curses of being tall in a boat. Last night and today we learned the ins and outs of safety on a ship. We get to wear these lovely life jackets which choke you a bit, but I suppose if they save your life they must be worth it. We learned how and when to strap ourselves to the boat and how to do sails. While Mr. Suttner, Leanna and Richard were finishing the grocery shopping, Jim, Scott, Mike and I were doing some extra clean up work on the boat. Jim and I went through a bit of the port and took some pictures. They were really amazing and I am really glad that we got to see it. The entire port is just beautiful. When we woke up this morning the hills had a bit of fog on top of them and looked just wonderful.
So anyway, after everyone got back to the boat, we made ready to sail. We rigged up two sails and got the mainsail ready. Then we started off from Porto Cervo, using the engine at that time since there really wasn’t a lot of wind. When we hoisted the mainsail it did absolutely nothing. It just flapped around for a bit. At the start of the trip the exhilaration rush was amazing, just watching the waves go by and the water, which was unbelievably blue. It was also really clear. However the exhilaration wore off eventually and I started to feel really sick. So I sat down in the cabin, and was shortly joined by Jim and Scott, who also felt sick. Scott ended up throwing up, which made myself and Jim feel better, as bad as that sounds. I managed to eat a piece of bread for lunch, although I did get hungry later when I felt better. We got into some calm water after a bit and learned how to tack and how to rescue a person overboard. All of us got to steer for a bit, which was really fun. After a while we headed on to Bonifacio and we got to learn how to steer by a compass. That was fun although I did feel a wee bit sick after a while. Then we had tea (hot chocolate/ovaltine) for me, and cakes. Scott threw up again. Once again it made me feel much better. We were proud of him for taking one for the team-puking so the rest of us didn’t have to. So then I was really tired and started to try to sleep. The boat was really cold in the shade though, so I moved into the sun. This meant that I was sleeping on a very tippy part of the boat. So every time the waves came, I started to slide towards the edge, because the boat was on an angle to start with, and the waves just made it worst.
So when we arrived in Bonifacio, we were really appreciating the architecture because all of the houses are built on this cliff, which just drops off. It was amazing to look at. Unfortunately at that time we were taking down the sails, so we didn’t get to much time to look at it. We pulled into the port which was pretty cool.
Scott and I made a dinner of stir fry chicken with who knows what type of herbs etc. It actually tasted really good. Mainly he made it and I just helped. After dinner we went for a walk around Bonifacio which seems to be pretty popular. People here just blast music from their bars to try to get people to come there. It seems like a pretty entertaining place.
Today we also learned that we probably won’t be able to access our emails and stuff which was quite disappointing because I was looking forward to hearing from home. Oh well, I guess that just means that I’ll have more stories to tell them.
Jim-
We set sail from Porto Cervo around noon today. Before we left, we prepared the boat for sailing, but went on by motor power for the first little while. Quickly, many of us developed terrible seasickness.
Once we recovered from our illnesses, we practised some basic manoeuvres with the sails up. It took some getting used to, but I think we did alright for our first day sailing Gipsy Moth IV. We also practised rescuing people from the sea.
We arrived in Corsica, a small, French island, this afternoon. We were all mesmerized by the elaborate rock formations we saw coming into Corsica: there were cliffs that seemed 100 ft tall, with houses perched precariously along its edge.
Almost as soon as we landed in out berth, the Gipsy Moth drew a crowd. Fellow sailors, mostly Italians, stopped by to discuss the famous vessel with us.
Once everything was cleaned up on deck and the crowd had dispersed, we sat down to a lovely stir-fry made by Leanna, Scott and Cheryl. After we tidied up after our dinner, we went out to investigate the local cafés. The Corsican community seems to enjoy quite a swinging nightlife.
Scott-
Hi its me again I’m now in bonifacio and it really nice here to there a bit more about here and there much more night life I love it here to lots of music that is nice. The sail up here was really fun even do I was sick a few times but that was all part of the experience. Errrm well we in a bar at the mo and the French have a good sense of humour I ask for the toilet and they tolled me to go half way up the road hahaha, I didn’t mind I do the same thing if they walk in my bar and spoke in a deferent language. They a bit mad on there motor bikes here I wonner go. Well I a bit tiyerd so I going to sleep in a bit so I say byby nighty night and see u tomorrow by xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
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ONBOARD IN PORTO CERVO, SARDINIA
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Porto Cervo – Wednesday 25th April
I am sitting in the cockpit of Gipsy Moth IV as the sun sets behind the hills. The day has been full but relaxed as we change over skippers and take care of all the usual changeover chores. Leg 29 will get underway for real tomorrow but for now the new crew are getting used to one another and settling in.
The overwhelming feeling is one of having travelled a long way to get to this point (literally and spiritually). I travelled form the Isle of Wight with Scott and it took us 24 hours to get from the Island to the pontoon that Gipsy Moth is moored to (we did overnight in a hotel 30km up the road). Of course our Canadian crewmates have travelled even further. So to spend a day messing around in port has been a great way of slowing down the pace again before we set off tomorrow to continue the Gipsy Moth journey at just a few miles per hour instead of hundreds of miles per hour.
The spiritual journey is a longer one. I remember the Gipsy Moth homecoming in 1967 when I was around 6 years old, I remember it because it meant a great deal to my grandfather who taught me to sail at the age of 10. As I became very enthusiastic about the sport of sailing in my late teens I read Sir Francis Chichester’s book and it made a great impression. I never imagined that I would sail his yacht and I never imagined that I would sail around the world (I still don’t). It is a privilege to be here and playing a small part in Gipsy Moth’s second round the world voyage. Looking forward to sailing to Bonifacio, Corsica tomorrow.
Mike Acton, Skipper.
Here are the thoughts of the rest of the crew:
Cheryl –
So we’re here in Italy, it’s my first time here and it’s such a beautiful place. The homes are such nice colours. They are all kind of pastel colours-but don’t trust my opinion on that, I’m not an artistic the person. We met Skipper Mike Acton and Scott Bruce this morning at the Hotel Moderno, and they seem really nice. When we took a taxi here, I was pretty terrified, because people in Italy travel at super high speeds on narrow twisty roads. Of course no one else had a problem, and they laughed at my fear. So after getting to the port, where the houses are just gorgeous and the port is surrounded by these hills of rocks, we saw the Gipsy Moth IV, which actually is a lot smaller than it looks in pictures I might add. It was still being maintenanced by the previous skipper and Leanna. We stuck our bags in the cabin and talked for a bit. Well the boat was swaying a little I felt kind of sick, so I wasn’t looking forward to the seasickness, but that went away after a bit. Then these really nice people gave Jim and Scott and Leanna a lift to the supermarket, which closed while they were shopping. Mr. Suttner and I helped a bit around the boat, then lazed about and made our first appearance via the Gipsy Moth camcorder. That wasn’t fun. So we unloaded the groceries that were bought and prepared lunch. An ever Italian lunch of hot dogs, but it was on Italian bread. So technically we ate hot dog sandwiches. Then we helped out with the boat a bit more. It’s really amazing how much stuff can fit into one small space on the boat. Finally we managed to go for a walk and swim in the water. At least Scott and I went swimming, Mr. Suttner and Jim stayed on shore. Scott didn’t believe me about the Jellyfish though. But then he actually saw one, he still didn’t believe me though. Boys are so stubborn. He still claims that it wasn’t a jellyfish. So for dinner we are having some weird concoction of who really knows what. Oh well, I hope it’s good. Oh and because Jim said so, I want to add that there are tons of little fish here, they are so cool. And because Scott says so, Scott Bruce is really cool, and we’ll leave it at that. He can add whatever else he wants in his own journal.
Jim-
Today was our first day aboard Gipsy Moth IV. We left Hotel Moderno in Olbia mid-morning today and arrived here in Porto Cervo. This harbour is breathtakingly beautiful, and we couldn’t ask for better weather. It’s been sunny all day, with a high temperature of about 25ºC.
We met Leanna (first mate) and Mike (skipper). We also met Scott Bruce, the 16-year-old British student with us. Richard was with us today, as well. Everyone – crew, locals and fellow sailors have been magnificent.
We went shopping at a local grocery store today. We were very fortunate, as a couple offered us a ride up to, and back from, the store. We bought plenty of food, but the store’s employees closed up early – around 2:00 PM. We may have to go back tomorrow. Hopefully we’ll be able to stay until we get everything we need.
Scott-
Hi Im Scott and at the moment Im in Italy on the gipsy moth iv its been rather fun so far I sleep in sum hotel last night and had a hole room to my self yer. I met 3 Canadians Jim Cheryl and Wayne. There pretty good people I also meet Leanna and Richard Errm after we got here me Jim and Leanna went to the shops to do some shoping that was really good fun it closed half way frew shopping and we had a load of Italians shouting at us it was so funny then we got back to the boat did a few things then we went swimming Cheryl was scared of the see weed and she sead that a peace of see weed was a jelly fish BUT IT WASENT. Then she found a turtle I think it was dead or sleeping or sum thing then I found a reel jelly fish now I waiting for dinner and I goner say by so by o by the way Scott is really really cool and lovely and I really don’t wont to leve him he got really nice feet by love Scott bybybybybybybybyby see u tomorrow xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Wayne-
Hey Folks! What a couple of days it’s been. I must begin by thanking Mr. Don Fairweather and Mr. Steve McLean, without whom, this fantastic adventure would not have been possible for Cheryl, Jim and myself. Gentlemen, you are truly men of vision who have an understanding of the value and life changing possibilities of this type of experience. I must also say thank-you for the support we have received from our principal, Mrs. Arlie Kirkland as well as Sam Latham, Sonia Szeto, Jen Bredin and the rest of the Thousand Islands Secondary School students’ council.
Well, a little bit about me. My name is Wayne Suttner and I am a guidance counsellor and geography teacher at the above mentioned school in Brockville, Ontario, Canada. I am so extremely thrilled to be here with my friends and students Jim and Cheryl. It is truly an honour for us to be the only non-British sailors on this incredible voyage. It’s been a pleasure getting to know our skipper Mike and Leanna, Scott and Richard today. I can tell that we’re going to have a great week or so together. It means a huge amount to me to be on this particular boat of course. I’m sure others on this circumnavigation have talked about the ghost of Sir Francis. The fact that he was a cancer survivor while he undertook his journey makes it even more personal for me, as the son of a mother and father who both died from the disease. I also have a very dear friend who is presently bravely facing her own battle. Erin, you are here with me in spirit (and I hope that you and Jerome are having a fantastic honeymoon!).
It’s great to be back in Italy after a twenty five year absence. Where else can you get charged twenty dollars for a plate of pasta and be served it by a waiter with such a big smile that you actually feel good about paying the bill? Anyway, Leanna and I served up some sweet-chilli chicken this evening which was received with rave reviews so that’s one difficulty solved. It’s on to Corsica tomorrow, talk to you then.
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| Andrew Eccleston's weather forecasts will appear in this section when the leg begins. |
Contact Gipsy Moth IV
As Gipsy Moth IV travels the globe, you can send messages to the crew using the form below.
To view recently posted messages please click here.
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